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I went out and looked at one of mine and decided I think its time to let it go. Too much rust. Too many issues just not worth spending any money on. It doesn't owe me anything and I think I should try and keep it that way. It still runs and drives and moving into winter maybe someone will give me a few bucks for it to use as a winter beater.
 

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So what I did today on my 'new' 98 was got a call from the drive line shop. Good news, its done. Bad news, went slightly over the $3k budget. $3800 to be exact.

I suspected the transfer case was shot just from a quick look at it and that was confirmed when I tried to shift it. Clank clank. Shop said typical worst case for one of these is about $1600, this is the 246? 'auto' case. Apparently $1600 gets you a new case half and all the hard parts that usually go out. Turns out this one was so bad we could not even get a core charge out of it. Guy said they never imagined one could be that beat. They said what appeared to be the beginning of the end was the clutch apparently exploded and plugged up the oil pump so even if there had been oil in it it would not have been going anywhere. Apparently it was driven a lot that way and could have imploded at any moment.

Next was the front diff. Very low on oil and leaking out of every possible place. I did seals on my 96 and it was pretty much a total pain in the butt and waste of time. To have the shop do that would have cost $400. $800 to pull it and rebuild it so I decided to just have em pull it. It was a good call because bearings were worn so seals would have been a waste. $300 in parts and they said ring and pinion were great so its now good as new.

Figured I would push my luck and have them do a transmission service too. That was only $120 and they said it looked great considering the mileage and that maybe it had never been done before, they said it had what looked like a factory filter and gasket in it so if it was done before it was a long time ago at a dealer.

It was a lot to spend on a truck I have only had for a week but its rust free which is pretty rare in my area. The few that do come up are asking $6k and up with the same miles and likely no rebuild front diff and transfer case. Only $500 so far from Rock auto and about $300 at Summit so not too bad there. AC seems to work both front and rear which is nice.
 
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Y is the L57 6.5 NA that replaced the 6.2 starting in 94. I would imagine most of them ended up in things like FedEx vans.

Last year for the S was 98.
 

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Mine is in the garage out of the snow that is currently coming down on the lift. Got fuel for the heater. Got a leroy oil line kit, turbo drain, new set of headlights, new set of GP's if needed sitting in the back seat. Just have to figure out where online I can get motivation. Found a few listings but they seem to be in book form which also sounds like work.
 
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Today I backed into a pole while plowing this late season snow. Looks like something really big hit it going really fast. The pile of rust is a clue to why the damage was so bad, not a lot of structure left back there to hold things together. Got a pry bar and bent the metal off the tire and finished the job. Was really loud with the tire rubbing. Dribbled some coolant from the rear heater but never seemed to do any major leaking and I was working it pretty hard. Maybe the hoses just got pinched? Anyone need any parts off a 95? I think I will have some for sale soon.
 

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I'm having rough cold starts even with the warmer weather. Figured I would check the easy glow plugs starting with #1 and it was bad. What are the chances that was the only one? If it starts smooth with no smoke today I will drive to the store for a lottery ticket.

Engine oil cooler lines don't seem to be leaking. Turbo drain still does seem to be leaking after 3 tries to seal it up. Front diff is still leaking. It never stops.
 
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What failed on the vac pump? Doorman seems to have an issue with actually getting lubrication in them.
 
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2 or 3 days in a row where the daytime high isn't above zero F is where I will start to admit its getting a bit cool. At least we don't get more than a couple weeks of that where I'm at. Further north there are people that get months of that. Only advantage to that is at least when its that cold there isn't any difference between C and F. What is it -40?
 

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Hopefully they still make hoses like they used to 20 years ago, we don't want the 40 year old ones but the 20 year old ones seemed good.
 
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Parts stores usually stock some universal boots that would likely work out better than staples and RTV.
 
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He is talking about 'hands free' phone laws that are fairly new in some areas.
 

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Been about a week and a half since I drove the Burb. Was mid 20's F and supposed to drop below zero the next day when I probably would need to drive it. Figured I would start it and warm it up good and get all the ice melted off. Cranked normal for being cold and kinda bucked a few times like it was really close. Kept trying and it kept bucking like it was firing on a couple but just wasn't getting any better or closer.

Grabbed an extension cord and while plugging in the block heater noticed something dripping off the cross member. Popped the hood and started looking around. Turns out that the glow plug wires are missing for 1 & 3. Connectors still there. Thick part of harness still there, just the 4 inches of wire between the connector and harness missing. Return hose between #1 injector and hard return line completely soaked with fuel.

Something fricken chewed my wires off. Guessing it chewed the wires off (found them on the ground under the truck) then tried the return line and got a mouth full of diesel and apparently gave up. Wondering if its the same critter that has chewed up a wiring harness in my VW twice this fall?

It was the cloth Mercedes hose and I had enough on hand to replace that. With that fixed and the block heater running I got it started and some heat in the engine so I could work with bare hands to hack the glow wires back in. It barely left any wire sticking out where the glow harness gets thick but I got just enough exposed and stripped to get butt connectors and some scraps of THHN #14 I had laying around.

Gotta wait for temps to get closer to freezing again and get it in the garage for a better repair.
 

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Looks like I am ordering parts and planning the logistics of replacing an engine. Was pulling a trailer down the interstate yesterday with the windows down so it was noisy anyway, Started to get tired of the noise so rolled them up and found out it wasn't just wind and road noise. Went a few more miles into a rest area where it was still running fine with no smoke just loud. Nothing obvious. Shut er down and quick restart no change. After it cooled tried again and its running bad and lots of unburnt fuel smoke and a getting progressively louder chirp to go with the banging clanging noise. .Flexplate looks fine and since that is the only external thing that could maybe make that much noise I think its gonna come out and is likely done. Thinking maybe a piston skirt broke off?

I have a spare engine out of a truck I crashed but its still not going to be cheap or easy. I know I don't have the space or headroom to do it in my garage. Gonna have to ponder if I can do it in the driveway or maybe roll it in and out as needed.

Was a $600 tow for about 70 miles. They were gonna originally pull the trailer back too but their big truck got sent to another job where it then died and the medium truck just wasn't liking the burb plus the trailer so we left the trailer at the tow yard and I came back to get it later with a borrowed truck.
 

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Have you checked the oil for any contaminates/metal frags?
If there is its not bad enough to show on the dipstick but I have not drained it for a more complete look. I don't think it will gain me much if I do it and find something or even if I don't. Its such a loud clank and its got to be internal that I think its coming out. Once its out I will likely tear in a bit just to see and see if its a pile of scrap or maybe something rebuildable to save or sell. I'm not gonna try and pull heads or anything on the bottom while its in the truck. I think its less pain to pull an engine than spend all that extra time bent over. You gotta take the same crap off to get at the top end as you do to pull it so might as well just pull it. Makes it so much easier to deal with things like stuck exhaust manifold bolts. My crossover wasn't in great shape so I just sawzalled it to get the inspection cover off rather than snap off bolts. Maybe if I was still 20 but not these days.
 

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The only things I can think of is either a pissing injector got enough fuel in to slightly bend a rod /crack a piston, breaking the piston skirt or.. Harmonic vibrations from a failed dampener, bending a rod causing the piston skirt to make side contact :unsure:
All that external stuff is fairly fresh and it was intitially running reasonably smooth and smoke free but after cooling off and running for very sort periods its now pretty rough and smoking like crazy. Blowby has a big pulse to it, its not crazy bad but its got a distint pulse to it now so I'm thinking its a piston issue of some sort and its not got enough compression at idle to run. Off idle it still seems to pick it up but it seems like its getting worse fast.

I kinda want to hook it to my scan tool and shut off cylinders to see if its just one but Im also thinking if its only got a minute or two left in it that I would rather use that to turn it around and get it into the garage. With the crossover cut off you can still hear the knock so overall its stupid loud and smoky now. Got to do some serious arranging in the garage and dig the spare engine out. Gonna be a big parts order. At least I have the most expensive parts but the little stuff I'm sure is going to add up. .
 

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I was underneath working on my engine removal and noticed I have a leak on my trans and transfer case that I need to deal with once I get it running again. Add that to the list that includes my leaking front diff.
 
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