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Kennedy dual w/filter.

That's what I'm leaning towards. I was considering the adapter on the OEM fuel filter housing with the big CAT filter then an additional filter under the air box. Not sure if another filter or a water separator is best. I saw a thread on it, but I see most people putting the additional filters up under the bed. What's best/easiest to maintain?


Dual pumps in case one fails? I don't plan on doing any mods to the truck.
 

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335 Posts
Finally had a "day off" pulled the radiator to clean the stack, threw on a new belt, because I was there, and washed it, again.
 

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941 Posts
Installed new front rotors & pads, adjusted the parking brake, and gave her a bath.
 

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Ordered a water pump, fuel pro gasket timing chain kit (eff you Summit Racing suggestion) and another gasket kit from rock auto. Rock auto was a $15 kit. Summit suggested a $55 timing chain kit with a bunch of gaskets I won’t use. It should all be here next week then I get to begin the fun process of removing everything. Apparently no one has a fan cage like mine because all the videos online omit removing it. Oh well. If I was motivated and skilled and had a good camera I’d make a video.
 

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Picked up a LML transmission dipstick tube from the dealer.
No use fighting with bending the OE tube to clear new downpipe when it's so cheap to just move it.
 

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Put on a new left rear hub then gave the old girl a bath. hoping this will finally stop the wheel seal leak problem.
 

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Rmoved rust behind the rear wheel wells.. lower parts close to the bumper
Sanded - up to 600grit - tack cloth followed by "Final Clean"
The BEST Etching primer 2 coats
Olympic #50 white in a Spray bomb made by local Body shop supply. 3 coats.

Works like a charm....looks just find.
Gotta keep the old girl lookin good..!!

Theo
 

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Filled her up with Chevron diesel and contemplated replacing the front bumper or putting on a lift pump. Hard choice when your work is right around the corner from a diesel performance supplier....
 

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Replace front Drivers Brake line - was rubbing against my inner wheel...my most excellent Diesel Mechanic added a reinforced rubber hose slit down its long side and tie wrapped on to the area it rubs (added protction), going to do the pass side this week.

Also replaced the original WIF which finally shat the bed and was leaking constantly.
I guess they simply wear out with the plastic becoming brittle over the past 14 yrs.

Still the best damned behicle I ever owned....hands down.
Theo
 
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Done a lot in the last couple months. but aside from some uneccesary stuf that I did because of an annual safety including brakes line replacement, routing, bleeding multiple times with about a gallon of fluid to kind of flush it and other things. Then got an air bag code after passing the safety so replaced the front sensor on the bumper.

I just hit a 1/4 million K on the odometer(id be well over 400k if I wasn't driving other vehicle more often the last 5-6 years) so I decided id bleed the Brakes again, do an ABS bleed a couple-few times because I now own the tool that lets me do it(didtn fix an issue where Im almost at a stop and the abs seems to kick in for a split second, maybe hubs is my next guess?!?), then changed out the transynd with fresh stuff and a new Allison spin on filter magnet and plug gasket. Then decided Id change the transfer case fluid out quick too. Did an oil change recently but I may just do another one with a flush first just cause since she just turned 250k and I have a couple pails of Rotella. Plan on doing the injector cleaning pricess with liquimoly diesel purge since the dealer stuff is different and not in stock locally now too.(thoughts?) Weird that the trans is running warmer now after the fresh fluid though....and if the brakes aren't the abs issue, then my next guess is a hub even though there is no play and no code(and I did replace a hub sensor wire because I noticed some minor rubbing on it but nothing changed then either). I its not hubs then dare I say torque converter? Am I on the right track Or am I just scaring myself?

2019-06-16 11.39.42.jpg

2019-06-17 13.25.52.jpg
 

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941 Posts
Rebuilt the fuel filter head, and installed a new AC Delco TP3018 filter
 

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Undecorated the rocker guards and cab corners and outside edges of the floor boards for now. Reinstalled the step bars after dabbing up mounting piece to replace the pieces that broke when removing. Then Replaced the hood release cable handle that broke, installed new wiper arms and blades, replaced the blown speaker in the passenger door after like 10 years of dealing with it. Replaced the passenger cowl piece that disappeared a couple years ago and replaced the rear passenger door reflector that broke awhile back but managed to break one of the tabs on the back of it while installing it. Have a new tailgate handle bezzle to pop on too but I'll wait til I redo the bed liner on top of the gate. The boxes of parts are finaly about empty, but the list is still going....to be continuedCensored

P.s. this LBZ forums slowing right down these days huh...
 

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I will agree that it is slowing down.

But I changed over to snow tires, a set of new front brake pads, greased the suspension, and changed fuel filters.

Got a water pump, and 2 codes to get rid of on the other one once it's back from getting a fresh paint job.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 

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New windshield(ever tried looking through a windshield with 310k miles in the dark while raining?) $190, new speedo cluster $150, undercoated with linseed oil through Schutts gun $20, Sony android auto head unit $500.
 

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Snorider a new paint job huh? I wish brother. Been dreaming about that for years now. Candian pricing is ridiculous compared to you U.S. boys for anything n everything.

N Lingus, linseed oil you say? Does it wash off in wet and or snow? I just spent a LOT more undercoating my rockers n cab corners with a shutz gun myself. N I'm still not done all that needs done...
 
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