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Not having a factory air box , I really wanted to do an effective cold air intake. After looking at options online, decided to make my own. Cost me 50 bucks and took about 2 hours. Is basically completely away from the hot engine area and draws nice cold air from behind the headlight 😎 pardon my messy engine bay.
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Not having a factory air box , I really wanted to do an effective cold air intake. After looking at options online, decided to make my own. Cost me 50 bucks and took about 2 hours. Is basically completely away from the hot engine area and draws nice cold air from behind the headlight 😎 pardon my messy engine bay.
Nice work but it looks like a big pain to change out the filter when needed?
 

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"turbo". Oh how I wish I had one on mine. Nice. Marmon clamps and all. So how much difference in sound is there? I know my N/A 83, and 93, "both" will let you know when the air cleaner lid loosens up. And W/O the silencer box going into it, it really roars on the hi-way. Not sure what the turbo inlet sounds like on the freeway. Your new system must really allow you to hear all the accessory and belt noises. :)
 

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Dually - it's actually pretty serviceable. I have the upper half of the fan shroud off in the photo but that was for convenience. Removing the upper clamps allows you to snake it out fairly easily. There was some minor trimming in that area to get a 6" cone to fit nicely.

Joe - you should look at getting a turbo! Prior to this, I just had the cone on the turbo (bad idea, do not recommend) and it was very obnoxious in the cab. I would say it's half as loud as it was.

I've already noticed my cruising boost levels when hot are down a few points, telling me I've been burning 180-200* air while I just had the cone stuck on the turbo.
 
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This was a busy weekend. Installed a Fluidampr and new timing chain set. Made of a video. Does anyone think this chain still had some life left in it?

Timing chain video

Also installed the new db2831 5079 and she fired up. I think the timing is close to where it needs to be.

Unfortunately, in my hurry to get everything done, I wasn't thinking when I torqued the coolant crossover back on and this nightmare happened.

Hand Finger Wood Thumb Nail


Unless someone has one they want to sell me, I'm on eBay tonight tracking one down 🤔

More pictures to come once it's all back together. No test drive since I don't have a complete cooling system.
 
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I bought a new felpro 2 piece rear oil seal from rockauto yesterday for a 87 6.2 I have on my engine stand.It’s an engine I bought some 10-12 yrs ago.For the same engine I also picked up a new cloyes 6.5 DS4 lower crankshaft sprocket so I can use a new 6.5 acdelco harmonic balancer that I have.

I have all parts needed now to rebuilt this engine along with new GM woodruff keyways.Its just a matter of stripping it and taking the block and crank off to the machine shop whenever I’m ready to do so.I have reman 6.5 60 degree heads so that’s what I plan to use on it.It might be mid this year or later before I get to work on this engine.
 
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I’m in the works of purchasing a new scat 6.5 crankshaft soon for my 87 6.2 and have it machined on the end to accept the 2 piece rear oil seal.

I think by the time I take the original crank to the machine shop and it gets measured for out of round and taper journals it’ll probably need undersize bearings and I don’t want a 6.2 crank with the journals machined to use anything but std bearings.

I have new genuine GM std rod and main bearings to go upon the scat crank.It’ll be a great engine when everything is stripped and reassembled.I had the oil pan off it a few years ago and could not see any trace of cracks.Right now it sits on the stand still assembled minus the fluidampr I sold off it a few years ago.

I’m also thinking of studding the main caps.I found another company producing fasteners named GATOR and they are manufactured in Florida by the look of it and they too make a main stud kit for the 6.2.I looked into the price of that kit and it was astronomical.They wanted almost $700 landed with ups brokerage fees.With both arp kits it only sets me back around the $450 mark delivered.

After browsing into the main stud idea I found that the ford pinto application will work on the 6.2.The inner studs are arp 151-4201 and arp 151-5401 for the outers.When I have the 5.7 diesel assembled and ready I’ll jump to the 6.2 and start working on that one when time allows it.

I’ve always enjoyed engine rebuilding especially on my own vehicles since there’s no timeline when it gets done but When dealing with somebody else’s engine I find it’s always extra stress to get it assembled and out the door.Nowadays I just work on my own thing.
 

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I’m in the works of purchasing a new scat 6.5 crankshaft soon for my 87 6.2 and have it machined on the end to accept the 2 piece rear oil seal.

I think by the time I take the original crank to the machine shop and it gets measured for out of round and taper journals it’ll probably need undersize bearings and I don’t want a 6.2 crank with the journals machined to use anything but std bearings.

I have new genuine GM std rod and main bearings to go upon the scat crank.It’ll be a great engine when everything is stripped and reassembled.I had the oil pan off it a few years ago and could not see any trace of cracks.Right now it sits on the stand still assembled minus the fluidampr I sold off it a few years ago.

I’m also thinking of studding the main caps.I’ve learned that ford pinto arp studs will fit 12mm 660 blocks.The part numbers are 151-4201 (long studs) and 151-5401 (short studs).When the 5.7 diesel is assembled and ready I’ll jump to the 6.2 and start working on that one.

I’ve always enjoyed engine rebuilding especially on my own vehicles since there’s no timeline when it gets done but When dealing with somebody else’s engine I find it’s always extra stress to get it assembled and out the door.Nowadays I just work on my own thing.
I think I speak for most other members when I say we would love to see photos of your rebuild, either ITT or in a new thread!

Personally, clean or freshly machined surfaces on engines get me awkwardly excited :LOL:
 

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Absolutely 👍I’ll definitely post pictures and create a new thread when I get the 6.2 project underway.Basically this will be a backup engine in case I need to use it.I’ll use the 6.5 timing cover with crankshaft sensor so that if I need to use it in my 96 gmc with DS4 it’ll be ready to go.I’ll still install the 4153 DB2 pump back on it,etc and if I need to go with the DS4 I’ll just swap pumps.My 96 gmc has a brand new engine that I installed several years ago but anything nowadays can fail.Nothing is guaranteed to last.

Right now this 6.2 on the stand has the DSG stud girdle installed that I put in place back in 2010.
 
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Tonight I picked up a new camshaft thrust plate from rockauto for my 87 6.2.These eventually May no longer be available anywhere.The way parts availability looks in regard to the acdelco harmonic balancers and crankshaft pulley it could happen anytime for this particular part.Couldn’t lose for roughly $15.
 

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Just in the process now of buying the arp 151-4201 main studs for my 87 6.2 which are from the ford pinto application but they will fit the inner 12mm main bearing cap bolt holes no problem.

Some 10-12 years ago I installed the DSG stud girdle kit that came with 6 arp studs so I’ll reuse that of course.I’ll still need to buy the remaining 4 studs which means I’ll have to buy arp 151-5401 which too is a pinto kit to get the rest of the outer studs I need.
 

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I’m going to experiment with a milodon 22565 chrome moly oil pump driveshaft that fits the 351C ford engine but I’m going to find out if it can be used in the 6.2 or 6.5 diesel when it arrives.The 22565 is at 8.4” while the 6.2 shaft is 8.3” roughly so it’s possible this shaft will work in the 6.2.Both the ford and Chevy 6.2 use the hex style shaft and are the same size within .001”.The Ford being .311 and the 6.2 is .312 according to rockauto.

I will purchase one and let everyone know how it goes.I think it’s a great upgrade over just plain Jane oil pump driveshafts such as melling or sealed power or even a stock shaft.

The milodon 22575 fits the olds 350 diesel but is slightly shorter at 8.1”.
 
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I picked up an updated washer awhile ago for the GM harmonic balancer bolt on my 87 6.2.Supposedly there was a problem with some woodruff keys shearing off on the crankshaft.
 

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