weird fuel/no power intermittent issue
Question:
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other things I would do before swapping the IP with a new one.... troubleshoot optic sensor and also go over grounds with a fine tooth comb. And search this forum using keywords like "stumble" and anything else specific to your situation and read as many threads as you can handle.
Also consider potting the fuel pressure gauge in a tee RIGHT at the inlet to the IP... easy enough and the better place for it imho.
Also consider potting the fuel pressure gauge in a tee RIGHT at the inlet to the IP... easy enough and the better place for it imho.
Fuel pressure is 10 at koeo its wired into a fuse tap on a circuit that's on with the key on
As soon as it starts fuel pressure drops to ~5 which is normal for when it was running decent
Its tapped into the bleed bung on top of the ffm
I will move it very much doubt that will change the readings
I have 2 spare pmd's its mounted by the driver side battery with heatsink tried both no change
No codes nothing off with the live data either
Cylinder power balance test all are firing
I have not tested the ffs it was new with the injection pump i think i have a gutted one lying around to throw in(can it please be this one this is easy and a definitive issue)
Gremlin pro is the 3l i6 chevy diesel right like 40k starting price
As soon as it starts fuel pressure drops to ~5 which is normal for when it was running decent
Its tapped into the bleed bung on top of the ffm
I will move it very much doubt that will change the readings
I have 2 spare pmd's its mounted by the driver side battery with heatsink tried both no change
No codes nothing off with the live data either
Cylinder power balance test all are firing
I have not tested the ffs it was new with the injection pump i think i have a gutted one lying around to throw in(can it please be this one this is easy and a definitive issue)
Gremlin pro is the 3l i6 chevy diesel right like 40k starting price
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18,476 Posts
I would disconnect the fuel line at the lift pump and connect a line from a jerry can full of Diesel to the LIft Pump and run it. See if conditions improve
this is gremlin remover referred to
www.dieselplace.com
You are right, fuel pressure tap location from top of ffm to top of IP probably wont change but it will eliminate a length of hose. Probably not collapsed but who knows.... easy enough.
Hope it is the FSOS... beyond that there are not too many easy options I can think of. dangerously loose pump drive gear? doubt it is the ecm but crazier things have happened. Anyways, please find it and share the solution! I have given all the ideas I can think of.
having issues with TDCO
I have a 1999 Chevy 3500 I changed the motor and I can't get the tdc offset to reset I have a snap on computer with a k- 20 chip and when I do the key on key off procedure nothing changes the tdc offset reads 2.46 and I am looking for anyone's help it's really racking my brain.
www.dieselplace.com
You are right, fuel pressure tap location from top of ffm to top of IP probably wont change but it will eliminate a length of hose. Probably not collapsed but who knows.... easy enough.
Hope it is the FSOS... beyond that there are not too many easy options I can think of. dangerously loose pump drive gear? doubt it is the ecm but crazier things have happened. Anyways, please find it and share the solution! I have given all the ideas I can think of.
Not FSOS swaped in the gutted one no change
Unplugged optical sensor and it won't run gotta look into that
Still gotta try a pmd without extension harness think I have a spare extension lying around
Unplugged optical sensor and it won't run gotta look into that
Still gotta try a pmd without extension harness think I have a spare extension lying around
Ecu read crank sensor as good
Volt meter says bad
Got lucky came out in one peice
This guys vid was excellent though I didn't remove the ps pump i just took the whole bracket loose and came in from the driver side wheel well with 3 extensions and a swivel socket
Should be 45 mins or so to put it all back together
Parts stores weren't open by the time I got it out
Also no ac Delco in state gonna order one and put a napa generic in till the other gets here
Volt meter says bad
Got lucky came out in one peice
Should be 45 mins or so to put it all back together
Parts stores weren't open by the time I got it out
Also no ac Delco in state gonna order one and put a napa generic in till the other gets here
Gremlins could appear
Bad crank sensor and a loose or bad optical sensor
Runs with new crank optical unplugged
Swapped in my old optical sensor dies as soon as I clear the code
Old one took a t40 screwdriver and a 12 inch wrench to get off
New Pump on the truck was just hand tight so the scribe line isn't correct
Gotta find the part number for it and a test/set procedure for the optical sensor
Runs with new crank optical unplugged
Swapped in my old optical sensor dies as soon as I clear the code
Old one took a t40 screwdriver and a 12 inch wrench to get off
New Pump on the truck was just hand tight so the scribe line isn't correct
Gotta find the part number for it and a test/set procedure for the optical sensor
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18,476 Posts
Info for TDCO and Optical sensor can be found in the 6.5L FAQ: Info: - The 6.5L FAQ's... The Master List of...
Its back home tried adjusting optic sensor 5-6 times each prolly the cause of death on the last pump too
Running in limp on the crank sensor
new reman pump ordered
After the swap I'll warrenty out the old one and have one on the shelf
New freeze plug heater old one didn't work and was leaking
Do not bother with the 600w heaters they suck metal is so thin you can't hold it to keep the orientation right
Broke 2 then had to have the wife make a parts run and bought both local parts store only had the 600w in stock
Left the clear pvc lines on over the manifold till the new pump comes
Gonna remote mount the ffm when it does and go back to rubber on everything but the short return line and keep some spare hose in the truck
Running in limp on the crank sensor
new reman pump ordered
After the swap I'll warrenty out the old one and have one on the shelf
New freeze plug heater old one didn't work and was leaking
Do not bother with the 600w heaters they suck metal is so thin you can't hold it to keep the orientation right
Broke 2 then had to have the wife make a parts run and bought both local parts store only had the 600w in stock
Left the clear pvc lines on over the manifold till the new pump comes
Gonna remote mount the ffm when it does and go back to rubber on everything but the short return line and keep some spare hose in the truck
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18,476 Posts
Disconnecting the OS will give you longer cranking time but it should still start.
Same goes for the Crank sensor as well.
got the new reman pump in(new engine harness run over lower intake) runs and drives now just having issues with the timing, its at ~+5.5 and the tdc is -2.5ish
and it wont relearn timing because the actual and desired ip timing is at 5.5 and 10 so its throwing a p1214
going to move the pump 1mm to the passenger side and tap on the ip timing stepper
stepper does nothing until over 1500 rpm
seams like there's something up with the stepper or I'm too far out of timing adjustment
and it wont relearn timing because the actual and desired ip timing is at 5.5 and 10 so its throwing a p1214
going to move the pump 1mm to the passenger side and tap on the ip timing stepper
stepper does nothing until over 1500 rpm
seams like there's something up with the stepper or I'm too far out of timing adjustment
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18,476 Posts
Make sure you run the engine up to operating temps (190* +) before you make any timing adjustments. Anything below those temps the timing adjustments will not take
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