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From what I have learned thanks to the may reponses to posts I've written, I'm trying to decipher my best option for a truly reliable (bomb proof) RV engine. I've learned that I had a 93 6.5l with a DB2 mechanical injection pump. I purchased a Ted's AMG pull from a 2004 military HUMVEE. I have put ARP studs in for greater strength should I go to more pressure. My object is to make this engine reliable by making it run cooler if able. Since it is a rear mounted engine it has a straight drive solid fan for the radiator and not much circulating air due to where it is on the vehicle. I guess my question is, can I make this thing still truly reliable by having the stock turbo rebuilt and mounting a pyrometer? I have been told, I think, that a larger turbo will give me a cooler running engine due to cooler intake temperature, is that correct? I believe the down pipe to the exhaust is a 3" pipe, and I will have a muffler shop see if they can upgrade to expand to a 4" exhaust to help with load on the engine. This is a class A motor home, and I will not be pulling anything except possibly a motorcycle on a trailer weighing about 1200 pounds or so.
I blew the engine (hole in #8 piston) pulling a hill in Eastern Oregon. It was pretty steep and the unit was struggling to climb it. From what I've learned, I propabably had a worn out or maladjusted DB2 and fuel injectors on the vehicle. I have had the DB2 rebuilt and all the injectors cleaned and tested to make sure I have good ones.
My initial intentions had been to throw the new to me engine into the vehicle and quit, however, I've had many (great actually) recommendations and the improvements have taken most all the energy out of me. I want to know what you think of the turbo because I need to mount all the exhaust manifolds before I install it due to the space restrictions. I had to jack the rear end up into the air quite a ways to remove the engine as It would not just slide out the back without much use of a cutting torch. I had to remove the Crossmember with engine mounts and engine altogether and drop it down with a cherry picker, so you can see I don't want to EVER have to do this again.
So, I've heard about updgrading to a Hx40 kit ($1200?) and much about not using the GM X (OEM?) I do not plan to boost the pressure over standard so I have added longevity.

Now that you read this novel,
1. I'd really like your input about whether the larger turbo will run this engine cooler using a different than OEM turbo?

2. I plan on installing a pyrometer. I've been told to keep the temp below 1200. Not having used one before, can I lengthen the leads for a 30 foot + run to the cockpit without changing the read out significantly?

3. This RV is heavy, its on a Spartan Frame. Having seen some of the hills around here that we have to pull, and sometimes at temperatures in the 90's and at distance. Has anyone tried changing differential gearing a little for better towing or mountain climbing ease?

Thank you all for any comments.
 

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From what I have learned thanks to the may reponses to posts I've written, I'm trying to decipher my best option for a truly reliable (bomb proof) RV engine. I've learned that I had a 93 6.5l with a DB2 mechanical injection pump. I purchased a Ted's AMG pull from a 2004 military HUMVEE. I have put ARP studs in for greater strength should I go to more pressure. My object is to make this engine reliable by making it run cooler if able. Since it is a rear mounted engine it has a straight drive solid fan for the radiator and not much circulating air due to where it is on the vehicle. I guess my question is, can I make this thing still truly reliable by having the stock turbo rebuilt and mounting a pyrometer?
A good set of gauges ( IE. Fuel pressure, EGT, Boost, etc. ) can help you monitor and diagnose things.


I have been told, I think, that a larger turbo will give me a cooler running engine due to cooler intake temperature, is that correct?
Upgrading your turbo can give you better performance, lower EGT's and IAT's.
Intake and exhaust mods are two of the best upgrades you can do for the engine.


So, I've heard about updgrading to a Hx40 kit ($1200?) and much about not using the GM X (OEM?) I do not plan to boost the pressure over standard so I have added longevity.
Since you have ARP studs installed you have strengthened the top end to handle more boost. Installing an HX40II will benefit your setup to help tow the weights.
You can find an HX40II cheaper than $1200 online if you look around.
PT Wiring solutions has a kit that includes the turbo and takes the hassle out of the install.
Check other sources like Quadstar tuning, Leroy, Kennedy Diesel, etc..


Now that you read this novel,
1. I'd really like your input about whether the larger turbo will run this engine cooler using a different than OEM turbo?
YES, in addition you can also install a water/meth system to help lower EGT's. for any long hill climbs, etc..
Install would be simple. You already have a water tank(s). You would just tap into the tank(s), install the pump and run the lines and nozzles, and then a momentary switch.
You can research the water/meth install by doing a forum search.

2. I plan on installing a pyrometer. I've been told to keep the temp below 1200. Not having used one before, can I lengthen the leads for a 30 foot + run to the cockpit without changing the read out significantly?
Yes, it will have no effect.

3. This RV is heavy, its on a Spartan Frame. Having seen some of the hills around here that we have to pull, and sometimes at temperatures in the 90's and at distance. Has anyone tried changing differential gearing a little for better towing or mountain climbing ease?
Your RV should already have the best gearing.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
A good set of gauges ( IE. Fuel pressure, EGT, Boost, etc. ) can help you monitor and diagnose things.



Upgrading your turbo can give you better performance, lower EGT's and IAT's.
Intake and exhaust mods are two of the best upgrades you can do for the engine.



Since you have ARP studs installed you have strengthened the top end to handle more boost. Installing an HX40II will benefit your setup to help tow the weights.
You can find an HX40II cheaper than $1200 online if you look around.
PT Wiring solutions has a kit that includes the turbo and takes the hassle out of the install.
Check other sources like Quadstar tuning, Leroy, Kennedy Diesel, etc..



YES, in addition you can also install a water/meth system to help lower EGT's. for any long hill climbs, etc..
Install would be simple. You already have a water tank(s). You would just tap into the tank(s), install the pump and run the lines and nozzles, and then a momentary switch.
You can research the water/meth install by doing a forum search.


Yes, it will have no effect.


Your RV should already have the best gearing.
Great to hear from you OK. I greatly appreciate your advice, you were essential in helping me decide on ARP studs. Thanks for your focused answers. I'm leaning toward the HX40 kit then, but I'll check with Leroy and Kennedy diesel as well. I am all about new indicators (gages). Where exactly would I plumb in fuel pressure? Between the filter and DB2? Definitely pyrometer and boost. The water/meth. I hadn't thought much about it. Used to use AWI (alcohol water injection) in a turbo prop I flew. It was exactly for that, high density altitude airports, ie high temperatures and thin air. Never thought much about it, but thanks. I'm going to search for that now, thanks again.
 

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I am all about new indicators (gages). Where exactly would I plumb in fuel pressure? Between the filter and DB2?
You can tap the top of the Fuel filter manager for fuel pressure.
Leroy has a fuel pressure bolt that simply screws into the top of the filter, replacing the bleed screw.
You then run your gauge line to the bolt and tap into an electrical source for gauge power and done.
He also has a boost bolt that replaces one of the bolts into the upper plenum and makes adding a boost gauge easy
 
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You can tap the top of the Fuel filter manager for fuel pressure.
Leroy has a fuel pressure bolt that simply screws into the top of the filter, replacing the bleed screw.
You then run your gauge line to the bolt and tap into an electrical source for gauge power and done.
He also has a boost bolt that replaces one of the bolts into the upper plenum and makes adding a boost gauge easy
Perfect you've been reading my mind. I've been visiting the Snow Performance site for water meth injection. It looks pretty easily done. It sounds like a great way to put your mind at ease when having to pull a grade. I appreciate it and thanks for the info!
 

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Perfect you've been reading my mind. I've been visiting the Snow Performance site for water meth injection. It looks pretty easily done. It sounds like a great way to put your mind at ease when having to pull a grade. I appreciate it and thanks for the info!
Here is a couple of threads from the FAQ page: DIY Water Mist Injection system install, w/pics (MPG Boost Project)


The first link is a DIY from member PrivotPilot that he did pretty cheap.
Again, yours will be easier since you already have water tank(s) which you can tap, then you would just source the other parts at the hardware store making it cheaper than the Snow's kit.
(y)
 
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... I think, that a larger turbo will give me a cooler running engine due to cooler intake temperature, is that correct?...
A turbo that is a better match for the engine will help in a couple of ways. First, running in a more efficient part of its range will lower the intake air temperature. Cooler intake air is denser so even at the same boost PSI you will be getting more air into the motor. Second, a better sized turbo will create less backpressure in the exhaust. This will let more heat OUT of the engine and decrease the load put on the engine from driving the turbo.

For some perspective, the stock GMx is about half the capacity that the engine can use. It would be a good match for the 6.5 if it had 2 of them.
 

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Here is a couple of threads from the FAQ page: DIY Water Mist Injection system install, w/pics (MPG Boost Project)


The first link is a DIY from member PrivotPilot that he did pretty cheap.
Again, yours will be easier since you already have water tank(s) which you can tap, then you would just source the other parts at the hardware store making it cheaper than the Snow's kit.
(y)
More to think about OK, I ordered the PT HX40II replacement today, Stretching the budget, No that's not right, blew clean through that, oh well. Thanks for the tip on the fuel and turbo bolts Leroy has, I will definitely be ordering some of those. The fuel pressure from the fuel filter will just be basically lift pump pressure, so a range of 0-20 psi sufficient? That's basically telling you if lift pump is failing, correct?
As I type this I'm just into the DIY post about the first 5 pages, sounds like a pretty good idea for now instead of having a super large radiator built. Fascinating stuff, but amazingly practical, and you're right just plumb from onboard water.. Again thanks as always.
 

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Here is a couple of threads from the FAQ page: DIY Water Mist Injection system install, w/pics (MPG Boost Project)


The first link is a DIY from member PrivotPilot that he did pretty cheap.
Again, yours will be easier since you already have water tank(s) which you can tap, then you would just source the other parts at the hardware store making it cheaper than the Snow's kit.
(y)
Here is a couple of threads from the FAQ page: DIY Water Mist Injection system install, w/pics (MPG Boost Project)


The first link is a DIY from member PrivotPilot that he did pretty cheap.
Again, yours will be easier since you already have water tank(s) which you can tap, then you would just source the other parts at the hardware store making it cheaper than the Snow's kit.
(y)
A turbo that is a better match for the engine will help in a couple of ways. First, running in a more efficient part of its range will lower the intake air temperature. Cooler intake air is denser so even at the same boost PSI you will be getting more air into the motor. Second, a better sized turbo will create less backpressure in the exhaust. This will let more heat OUT of the engine and decrease the load put on the engine from driving the turbo.

For some perspective, the stock GMx is about half the capacity that the engine can use. It would be a good match for the 6.5 if it had 2 of them.
A turbo that is a better match for the engine will help in a couple of ways. First, running in a more efficient part of its range will lower the intake air temperature. Cooler intake air is denser so even at the same boost PSI you will be getting more air into the motor. Second, a better sized turbo will create less backpressure in the exhaust. This will let more heat OUT of the engine and decrease the load put on the engine from driving the turbo.

For some perspective, the stock GMx is about half the capacity that the engine can use. It would be a good match for the 6.5 if it had 2 of them.
Thanks for the input Pro Cycle, your reply was the last straw on the camel's back. I injured my credit card once again and pulled the trigger on the HX40II kit:)
 

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The fuel pressure from the fuel filter will just be basically lift pump pressure, so a range of 0-20 psi sufficient? That's basically telling you if lift pump is failing, correct?
Correct. lift pump failure, fuel system restrictions, etc..
 
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