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Discussion Starter #1
To those of us still lucky enough to be under the warranty clock for IP GM special policy, 11 yr/ 120K miles, something to do is check filter bowl 1st, I was doing some other mods and saw this crud, it's been there since before I added my Racor, but this is one of those things a jack leg dealer looks for before honoring warranty

Chunks this big are stopped by the plastic screen
(don't have one look inside the filter before throwing away old filter sometimes they stick in them see last pic by screwdriver), the filter, and also the screen in the IP inlet, but some dealers will demand to clean your system before doing any warranty, and usually "Lift pump is bad" as result of eating those chunks, or so they will claim bottom line is de-gunk/ de-crud before taking to dealer they usually get $500-800 for this "service" before supplying warranty IP.
 

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I wondered about that - When I replaced my fuel filter (just got my truck), I thought it was an odd design where the old fuel and any chunks would still sit in the bottom of the bowl. Is there any easy way to clean that out without removing the entire filter housing and bowl? I looked down into mine with the filter out and it looked clean on the bottom, so I just put the new filter in, then I bled maybe a pint of fuel out through the bleeder after I started it, hoping that maybe that would clean out the bottom of the fuel sitting in the bowl. Is that the right procedure for cleaning out the bottom of the bowl?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No rite or wrong procedure, lifting out the body is only way to be 100% its clean, you could "mop it out" with a set of mechanical fingers & rag hooked to the end, and since the body is aluminum magnetic retrival tool to get out ferrous material would work.

Once done get a RACOR or other mfrs filter pre lift pump, those chunks pass thru the lift pump without the pre-filter. Taking out the filter body isn't too tough, replace the "Jesus" spring clamps"(Jesus is this thing tough to get off) with stainless screw clamps.

Get new o rings for the WIF sensor and the heater element while you are at it, sorry I don't have the GM pn I have access to all orings I need from work, found one that fit, be sure it's Viton material, Buna/neopreme rubber does not hold up to Diesel fuel well over the long haul
 

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Are the connections for the heater and WIF sensor standard or some oddball GM-specific connector? I wouldn't mind making an extension harness and placing the OEM assembly closer to the fuel tank. I have not looked at the connectors, but someone who is familiar with the stock assembly would be able to tell.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think these are std Weather Pak connectors
 

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I also use my 12 volt electric fuel pump for this. I stick the suction end in and add diesel as necessary. It will suck out most of the fuel & dirt with it. Then I hit it with the shop vac & wipe out what's left. I always clean my pump & lines out as I never know what I will make it do next. It has worked for filling the lower units on my boats, power bleeding brake & clutch lines, emptying the fuel tank on the 96 suburban after my daughter filled it with gasoline. I've been abusing it for at least 10 years now & it just keeps pumpimg.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
More pics to add to this FAQ thread, I was getting fuel weeping down the back side of the bellhousing on the burb, the spring clip connectors had gotten weak and fuel was making it past the filter manager bowl fittings/lines, I replaced all my spring clamps with "worm screw" clamps, while at it I pulled the filter manager off to replace my somewhat square supposed to be round O-rings
 

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