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Discussion Starter #1
My fuel gauge has been acting up for years now. Got a new cluster and that seems to have solved the problem. New problem. My wait to start light which used to be top left is not on the new cluster and is down the left middle now. It does not illuminate on the new cluster. Anyway to fix this?
Thanks for the help.
 

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My fuel gauge has been acting up for years now. Got a new cluster and that seems to have solved the problem. New problem. My wait to start light which used to be top left is not on the new cluster and is down the left middle now. It does not illuminate on the new cluster. Anyway to fix this?
Thanks for the help.
Try replacing the bulb in the cluster first
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Try replacing the bulb in the cluster first
Do you suspect this may be because first instrument cluster is 95 and new is 97? Also checked the bulb.
 

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Do you suspect this may be because first instrument cluster is 95 and new is 97? Also checked the bulb.
I don't believe the OBDII cluster will work.
 

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The 95-96 WTS bulb is grounded and the actual 12v. from the glow plug harness lights it up.
The 97-up WTS bulb has 12v. ign. going to it and the PCM grounds it to light it up.
The easiest thing to do is get the correct gauge cluster or add a new WTS light.
Do you have a 95 or 96? Those years also have different gauge clusters.
Only clusters 98 and up will interchange correctly.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
The 95-96 WTS bulb is grounded and the actual 12v. from the glow plug harness lights it up.
The 97-up WTS bulb has 12v. ign. going to it and the PCM grounds it to light it up.
The easiest thing to do is get the correct gauge cluster or add a new WTS light.
Do you have a 95 or 96? Those years also have different gauge clusters.
Only clusters 98 and up will interchange correctly.
I have a 1996, but the instrument cluster I had previous said 1995. That was what I bought it with. I bought a 1997 one. I am OBDii. I know for sure as I use an OBDii torque pro app and adapter for live data.
 

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Just a thought. Have you thought about just swapping the air core motor for the fuel gauge over to the cluster that you know works in your truck?
 
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OBD1 or 2 is not the factor, it's the way GM changed the way certain things are wired and or function from year to year.
The gauge clusters do say 1995 but that is not the actual year it was used, except in 95.
The 95 cluster tach is for the larger/slower alternator pulley, the 96 and up tach is for the smaller/faster alternator pulley.
The only diff. on your 97 cluster from a 96 is the WTS lamp function.
The circuit board presses on to the terminals to the different gauges and sometimes they lose contact.
Moving the contact points out and back in a little will sometimes get things working.
 
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Just a thought. Have you thought about just swapping the air core motor for the fuel gauge over to the cluster that you know works in your truck?
I have, just trying to see if I can make the new one work. It looks a lot nicer than my old one.
 

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OBD1 or 2 is not the factor, it's the way GM changed the way certain things are wired and or function from year to year.
The gauge clusters do say 1995 but that is not the actual year it was used, except in 95.
The 95 cluster tach is for the larger/slower alternator pulley, the 96 and up tach is for the smaller/faster alternator pulley.
The only diff. on your 97 cluster from a 96 is the WTS lamp function.
The circuit board presses on to the terminals to the different gauges and sometimes they lose contact.
Moving the contact points out and back in a little will sometimes get things working.
You suspect I might be able to get it working by moving some terminals? If so that’s great news. I’ll have to look at it again later today. Is there a wiring diagram for it available? I couldn’t find it when I searched.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
What are your thoughts on moving the metal contact in the dash board plug itself to contact the new instrument cluster WTS spot. My old 96 cluster had both WTS light options. It was just the top one that functioned, while the side one didn’t have a bulb. I’m trying to see if I can make it work before I go external.
 

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The problem is the circuit board is extremely hard to solder to and you have to do some creative cutting to separate the 12v. feed to the bulb. A relay will fix it but it's a hassel.
You could move the WTS bulb to the same place as the 96 cluster. The bulb will work but you need to check if it has "GLOW PLUG" in that hole. If not you could drill a hole and put some kind of amber lens there or use an amber bulb, or even red.
On your 96 cluster there are little square contacts that go to the various gauges. Make sure to press down on those so they make good contact, they are a pressure fit.
 
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