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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a buddy that has asked me to put valve cover gaskets on his 96 6.5 turbo. i have never worked on a 6.5 before is there anything special about this job or is it just a typical valve cover change, and how long should it take to do?
thanx for any help
C.B
 

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UH, it for sure isn't a half hour deal to change them :) Do you have to do both sides? Take a good look at it to figure your game plan. For me, I had to do both sides (factory gasket is just plain ol RTV). I had to remove the intake manifold (so I bought new gaskets) remove all the injector tubes ( you'll need a 19mm flared crows foot) and gently cut the old RTC between the head and cover (don't be to harsh or you'll bend the cover and have a real nightmare on your hands)
Figure on burning up most of the day, The lovely GM engineer that thought this up is just laughing his butt off. :(
 

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About a 4 hour job. Remove intake and all injector lines, any brackets that are in the way. Remove bolts on covers. Carefully clean all silicone off of both the head and cover. Clean with brake clean or acetone or laquer thinner to leave a super clean surface. Use a liberal coat of permatex high heat ultra black rtv sealant, I like to apply to both surfaces because the rear of the head is easy to scrape some off on a rocker while installing. I am just redoing two valve covers on an engine that I just put together because the silicone went bad-:t and didn't stick uniformly, what a pia. The ultra black is very good stuff however. The silicone that I used that went bad was napa silicone in a can-:t Good luck.:grd:
 

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UH, it for sure isn't a half hour deal to change them :) Do you have to do both sides? Take a good look at it to figure your game plan. For me, I had to do both sides (factory gasket is just plain ol RTV). I had to remove the intake manifold (so I bought new gaskets) remove all the injector tubes ( you'll need a 19mm flared crows foot) and gently cut the old RTC between the head and cover (don't be to harsh or you'll bend the cover and have a real nightmare on your hands)
Figure on burning up most of the day, The lovely GM engineer that thought this up is just laughing his butt off. :(
i don't know if it was an engineers fault. i think the bean counter said shorter injection lines will save money.. material wise. then they can say it's a big job to do valve cover gaskets and live up to the stealers reputation...
 

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You used that even bead crap, didn't you D Cam? ):h

In my opinion, Permatex's "The Right Stuff" is the silicone to use
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanx for the help everone, well give it a shot and se if we cant come up with some extra parts when i'm done!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Yup, I think it was even bead, first time and last time since I get to reseal the twice sealed with even bead cover again tonight. I think napa owes me a refund(I should give them a bill for 65.00 an hour x 4 x2) yeah right, be lucky to get back my 12.00-:t
 

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In my opinion, Permatex's "The Right Stuff" is the silicone to use

I agree. Anything else is bunk. Right stuff will not leak....or come apart once it dries. Expensive, but worth it.
 

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Yup, I think it was even bead, first time and last time since I get to reseal the twice sealed with even bead cover again tonight. I think napa owes me a refund(I should give them a bill for 65.00 an hour x 4 x2) yeah right, be lucky to get back my 12.00-:t
Uh huh..I've been burned by that stuff a few times too..

Part number 765-2695 is what you want, if you go back there again.. ;)
 

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You used that even bead crap, didn't you D Cam? ):h

In my opinion, Permatex's "The Right Stuff" is the silicone to use
:agreed:

That stuff works great. Clean is the key. Put on a bead and then set the cover down evenly. Push lightly and leave it set and cure. Then put the bolts in.

A Snap-on 19mm 4 way wrench will be a big help removing the lines at the injection pump. The lines will stay ganged together so you don't cross them although some HAVE done this.
 

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8 small pieces of tape will keep that from happening IF you are worried about that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
:agreed:

That stuff works great. Clean is the key. Put on a bead and then set the cover down evenly. Push lightly and leave it set and cure. Then put the bolts in.

A Snap-on 19mm 4 way wrench will be a big help removing the lines at the injection pump. The lines will stay ganged together so you don't cross them although some HAVE done this.
thanx jonh, u mean i will finally get to use one of these wrenches? i bought a set of the about 1.5 years ago and still have yet to use them!!!
 

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I like the Permatex Ultra-Copper. I don't think it matters much which one you use as long as you look at the back of the package and find the one that fits the application....O2 sensor, temp range, thick flange vs thin, impervious to fuels, etc. The "usage guide" works if you work on cars too. Some are sensitive to the different types of sealant. The gray stuff works on almost all the foreign junk. Good for them, I won't be needing that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanx for all you r help everyone Smokinram and i tackeled this project the other day and all went well thanx to the tips i got here, But all i'll say is dang thats a lot of stuff to take off just to replace valve cover gaskets that are just going to leak again!!!!!!!!! We did install felpro gaskets instead of just using silicone!
Thanx again
C.B
 

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Sorry to hear that you installed felpro gaskets, you WILL:eek: :badidea: be doing the job again. There is a reason that the factory uses silicone, when propperly applied, it will last for years and years without leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
not my truck, and the customer supplied the gaskets his self so, if they dont last its not my problem, the engine in the truck was a reman with about 10k on it and they were allready leaking.

Thanx again,
C.B
 

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Help! Fouled up valve cover

Since I'm in the middle of replacing my IP, I thought it was an opportune time to change the valve cover gasket on the driver side that had been leaking since I got the truck. Silly me used the Felpro gasket and the OEM torque values (for the RTV gasket in the chassis manual) so now its together, but I didnt notice until I was halfway done that 20 Ft-lbs was bending the valve cover all to hell.
:help:
(Incidentally, a cork gasket is what came out of the valve cover) So...
I figure I'd better get this straightened out before reassembling everything else 'cuz it will be such a PIA to get the covers off again. Is it worth trying to bend the valve cover back to normal (not sure how close I can really get it) or does anyone know where I can get a new valve cover (preferrably something more rigid than the stamped OEM covers).

Thanks. :(

(x-list to 6.2 forum; http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71689)
 

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Remove valve cover, take a ball peen hammer and straighten out the bent spots on the valve cover. Throw away cork gasket! Clean surfaces of valve cover and mating surface on head with brake clean and then apply a good uniform bead of permatex ultra black silicone. Be vary careful when sliding valve cover in place so as not to scrape off all of the silicone on the rocker arms when installing, or better yet, apply a bead to both surfaces(head and valve cover) Tighten down evenly and put everything else back together.:grd:
 

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Hi, I am new to this forum & am having an issue. I'm attempting this fun job for the first time myself & am ready to pull my hair out (what's left of it). I cannot get this turbo off to get to the passenger side injector lines or valve cover gasket. I am pretty handy with my mechanical skills, but this one is really irking me. What, if any, is the best way to get this turbo off? Without breaking stuff, of course. Everything else went smoothly on the driver's side, minus the one injector line that I can't remove because I need the other injector lines off. Help, please.
 

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Hi, I am new to this forum & am having an issue. I'm attempting this fun job for the first time myself & am ready to pull my hair out (what's left of it). I cannot get this turbo off to get to the passenger side injector lines or valve cover gasket. I am pretty handy with my mechanical skills, but this one is really irking me. What, if any, is the best way to get this turbo off? Without breaking stuff, of course. Everything else went smoothly on the driver's side, minus the one injector line that I can't remove because I need the other injector lines off. Help, please.
Welcome to DieselPlace.
Presoak the bolts/nuts in Kroil, PB Blaster, or some other type of penetrant oil.
If that doesn't work you may have to use a torch and heat it up to get them to come off.
 
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