alright so i got a weird one this morning going to work my 6.2 decided the dipstick didn't need to stay in the dipstick tube not to sure why my uncle says bad vacuum pump but im not sure wondering if anyone has had this happen possibly cdr? I got a cute little oil spit mark under my hood now. Also it started doing a slight surge when driving down the road almost like hitting a patch of ice then dry pavement as well as when idling its shaking the truck i checked the motor mounts but the engine doesn't appear to be moving to much not really sure where to check. Any ideas? 85 k20 6.2 banks turbo kit
vacuum pump problem or?? helppp
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So i took the cdr off and it didnt make any noise and i blew through it no problem not sure if thats the best way to test it or not.
It blows smoke out of the dipstick hole and oil cap. Seems to have a faint blue smoke puff since i got it. I have a local guy that is going to see if hes got some extra parts so i can get it figured out before i work monday
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The CDR can be tested using a manometer: CDR\PCV - what's it all about, Alfalfa?
<><><><><><><><><>CDR TESTING<><><><><><><><><>
CDR testing can be accomplished with 4' section of clear plastic tubing, sized to fit the dipstick tube, ~3/8".
Form a 3" U-bend , with 12" vertical columns. This could be attached to a piece of 1 x 6 with large u-staples, parallel-spaced at one inch intervals for indication of measurement.
Important - do not crush or deform the plastic tubing.
Place the free end over the dipstick tube, ensuring tight fit, with no leak-by. Position the manometer vertically, where the upper end of the U is lower than the end over the dipstick tube.
Note: this is to prevent water siphoning into the oil pan thru the dipstick tube.
Pour colored water into the U section such that about 6 " of water is in each leg, about 4 - 6" below the top of the open end.
Have someone start the engine, bring the rpm up to about 2000, keeping close watch on the water level in the U-tube. If the water in the dipstick leg rises an inch, the water in the open leg will drop an equal amount. Adding the drop level to the rise level, this would indicate vacuum at two inches on the Water Column.
Vacuum at idle should be around 1", depending on air filter restriction; at 2000 rpm, the CDR should limit vacuum to 4 - 6" WC on a calibrated Manometer. The shade-tree version should indicate close to those figures, depending on accuracy of staple intervals.
If the level in the dipstick leg drops, and the open leg level rises, this indicates the crankcase is slightly pressurized.
27" WC is equal to 1 PSI (Pound per Square Inch) 1psi is equal to 2" mercury
Atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi, or 29" mercury, or 396" WC, rounding off
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If you do not know the history of your CDR it is best to replace it rather than try to keep using it..
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How much blow by is there when you take the oil cap off ?
Vacuum pump has nothing to do with the innards of the engine.
Here is a video of one I had a while back, this is a lot of blow by.
I ended up having a few bad pistons, one had a hole right through it and others were cracked.
Had a Banks setup on it also.
Vacuum pump has nothing to do with the innards of the engine.
Here is a video of one I had a while back, this is a lot of blow by.
I ended up having a few bad pistons, one had a hole right through it and others were cracked.
Had a Banks setup on it also.
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It's better to upload the video to Youtube first then copy the video link from the address bar and then paste it here in the forum
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Yes, Better.
You can find clear tubing (3/8") at any local automotive or hardware store. You'll need 4 feet of tubing for the test. Then follow the directions above for testing procedure.
If the CDR fails it can damage the crankcase seals causing excessive oil leaks and blowby.
It's best to first test the CDR or replace it to see if things improve.
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Yes, you can use the 6.5L CDR
Can it be cleaned with brake cleaner by chance?
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CDR should never be cleaned. The internal diaphragm is fragile and solvents usually damage it rather quickly making the CDR useless.
That link I posted in #6 gives all the technical info on the CDR
Alright. Would appear im going to get a cdr for it and see if it helps and start getting parts together to rebuild it. Any good sources for pistons that can handle boost better? My uncle knows a guy that does ceramic coatings so i figured id do that with a new set of pistons when i do the rebuild
That's pretty much what im gathering sucks cause its my work truck and i dont really have another backup
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Do a compression test
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I would crack each injector line whiles it's running and listen for any change in idle.
This will tell you how many cylinders are affected.
I would also start thinking about how cheap and quickly I could get it fixed.
I would go with trying to score a running engine off farcebook marketplace or Craigslist.
It sucks, no doubt.
These are cake to swap.
This will tell you how many cylinders are affected.
I would also start thinking about how cheap and quickly I could get it fixed.
I would go with trying to score a running engine off farcebook marketplace or Craigslist.
It sucks, no doubt.
These are cake to swap.
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