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Discussion Starter #1
Will I experienced a few issues when I did the following upgrades this past weekend.
  • 97 Cooling system with D-Max Fan. (SSDiesel)
  • "F" Intake on "S" engine.
  • Heath Turbo Master.
  • Heath Max-E-Tork eprom (Non-EGR).
'97 Cooling - I used the write up in the FAQ's to start and it was great. I have a few things to add.
T-Stat housing- you do not need any sealant or gasket as the rubber o-rings in the thermostats do the sealing.
Return Lines- When I read the post it kept referring to the Oil return lines not realizing they meant the fuel return lines. The only modifications I did with the line is that I bent them (without kinking them) to fit around the obstacles of the new cross over.
Fuel drain- Since I had the intake off I replaced the fuel drain hose with a longer piece (3 ft of 1/4 fuel hose) so I could put it anywhere I needed to.
Alternator bracket- Not knowing what this meant when reading the post I soon found out. It is the casted bracket holding the alternator. I removed the bracket and used a hand grinder to modify the bracket. You take of a pretty good chunk off the bracket (3/4" - 1")
DMax fan - no issues - did not interfer with the shroud.



Heath Turbo Master: Great Product! I was able to get rid of that noisy vaccum pump. (was going bad)

Heath Max-E-Tork: What else is there to say here! Bill is great. Highly recommended.

"F" Intake: I thought I could get rid of the EGR stuff since I installed the TM but was mistaken. You still need to plug in the Selenoid bank electrically so the SES light does not come on. I removed all of the vaccum lines though. When I ordered the eprom from Heath I told them that I was installing the "F" intake and they programmed it that way. Unfortunately you still need the vaccum selenoid bank hooked up.

Fuel lines: Those little metal clamps around the rubber piece were rubbing on the intake and the block. I removed the metal clamps under the intake (not the rubber) and used Zip ties around the rubber piece. This got rid of some noise that was traveling into the cab. (sounded like rocker arm noise) I also made sure that no fuel lines were rubbing together - metal to metal. If they did I used a piece of rubber and stuck it between the lines then tied it down with another zip tie.

Stupid mistakes (only one this time):
I removed the fuel lines to open up the valve cover and when I re-installed I forgot to tight 2 of the lines on the pump. I only found this out after I was done and had it running - kind of I guess because it was missing on 2 cylinders. Make sure these are tight BEFORE the intake is installed... doh!

The truck runs fantastic! It actually is quieter and much more fun to drive. I have not pulled the 28 ft travel trailer yet but it feels like I shouldn't have any problems with Power only EGT although I can control that with my foot...

I also want to thank all that contribute to this site. I learned a whole lot in this last 6 months prusing the information when I was planning on what I need to do. I would have been very frustrated and not knowing what to do next if it wasn't for this site. THANKS GUYS!
 

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i cleaned out "cut all the webbing" out of my s intake and unpluged the egr valve and caped it off. is there any more gain if i switch intakes or are my mods enough?
 

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Exhaust gasses still pass thru the exhaust crossover in the lower manifold, below the 'tower' - adds way unnecessary heat to the incoming air charge
 

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ok thanks. i was wandering about that. put one more itam on the to do list before i order my puter
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What #belt did you use now that you don't have the vaccum pump?
Gator Razorback part number 4061010. I just asked for a belt for a 93 6.5TD. Also I have A/C.
 
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