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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have any experience with the U-joints with the grease nipple in them. I was thinking about replacing the ones I have with those type but I remember reading somewhere that they are weaker and tend to break...is this true? I'm not doing any rock climbing or heavy towing:( . Any suggestions.
 

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They are a little bit weaker because of the hollow ports for the grease. If you use a Spicer u-joint you won’t have any problems. A good parts store should be able to order them for you at about $16-17 a piece or you may check with a local driveshaft shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What type of grease for the greasable U-joints?
 

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What type of grease for the greasable U-joints?
I don't think it really matters as long as its a good grease. The part that matters is remembering to grease them every once in a while as most people still have the original non greasable ones in so no one thinks to check them/grease them. Especially if you take to a lube shop or dealer.
 

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I have replaced worn out U joints with greasable ones on many trucks without any problems. I use chassis grease as for ball joints.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm having a heck of a time removing the u-joint from the rear drive shaft. What gives???:mad: :mad: How does it come out? Do I just beat it on one side till the other side comes out?

I have done this before but it was a long time ago and it seemed like it was snap.
 

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I'm having a heck of a time removing the u-joint from the rear drive shaft. What gives???:mad: :mad: How does it come out? Do I just beat it on one side till the other side comes out?

I have done this before but it was a long time ago and it seemed like it was snap.
Does the U-joint you are working on have the snap ring retainer on the outside of the caps?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Does the U-joint you are working on have the snap ring retainer on the outside of the caps?
Yes. I took out the retainers.
 

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put the zerk in tension not extension
 

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Discussion Starter #10
put the zerk in tension not extension
What does that mean? Are you talking about on the installation of the new u-joints?
 

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The last U-Joint I replaced was in my old 94' 1500. To get it out you have to put a propane torch to it untill the plastic that's in the interior of it gets hot enough to worm it's way out of the joint. The plastic is like a interior retention clip until it's melted which releases it.
 

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I just had to replace mine. Tried to do it myself and I was in the same situation your in. I hammered and hammered on mine and they wouldnt move. I ended up taken it in to the shop. They had to use a press to get the things out.
 

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Get a bigger hammer. It will come out. Use a large socket on one end and a small one on the other. Or press it out using the same sockets.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I just had to replace mine. Tried to do it myself and I was in the same situation your in. I hammered and hammered on mine and they wouldnt move. I ended up taken it in to the shop. They had to use a press to get the things out.
Man!! I don't remember it being this tough at all. After they are out are the new ones as hard to get in?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Get a bigger hammer. It will come out. Use a large socket on one end and a small one on the other. Or press it out using the same sockets.
I'm not quite following what you mean? Can you explain further?
 

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When I replaced mine, I had to use a torch to let the plastic "worm out" also. After the worm was done growin' they came apart easily. (CC LB, so I had the 2 piece drive shaft. 3 joints in rear, 2 up front.
 

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Removing U joints

An alternative approach for removing the U joints without melting the stock plastic retainer is to support the two exposed ends of the joint to keep yoke off floor and use a big hammer on the top surface of the yoke protected with a flat steel plate initially (large tube once the joint moves). This puts all the forces on the same side of the yoke and there is less chance of bending the yoke.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I just took them to a local shop. They pressed the old ones out and then the new ones in for $10 a joint in just a few minutes. 4 new joints for $40 plus of course the cost of the u-joints. I live in a quite neighborhood and I got tired of beating them silly and making all kinds of racket.
 

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Watch what you start hitting with hammers, the yokes can bend in or out(yea even the steel ones). Unless your using some sort of socket that will be able to put all the pressure right along the outside of the cap hole.. But, a press and two sockets is just as fast when it comes down to it, or find a guy that has and otc ball joint press (large c-clamp style) and those work about 100 times better then hammers and vises, pushes them out as quick as your air gun can spin.
 

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Watch what you start hitting with hammers, the yokes can bend in or out(yea even the steel ones). Unless your using some sort of socket that will be able to put all the pressure right along the outside of the cap hole.. But, a press and two sockets is just as fast when it comes down to it, or find a guy that has and otc ball joint press (large c-clamp style) and those work about 100 times better then hammers and vises, pushes them out as quick as your air gun can spin.
I don't know why anyone would beat on it with a hammer or go to the trouble of taking it somewhere that has a press when you can heat it up with a propane torch in a few minutes and take it apart like it's supposed to be taken apart. Easily.
 
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