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Two Questions: turbo and electronic related.

Question: 
3K views 22 replies 8 participants last post by  duneracerweston 
#1 ·
I have a 96 6.5l TD 5sp, been haveing a few issues and its stumped me. I already relocated the pmd to the bumper, so thats not my issue. Its a odd issue it goes into limp mode if you crank it after its warm 160* or more on the dash, but it you crank it cold it will run perfect all day, as long as you dont kill it and restart it. Im lost with this one, if it was a big diesel motor like a Cat or Detroit id have it whooped. So is there a sensor I can change? Is this a common issue?

Also, I pulled the plenum the other day to run the wires for the pmd and found oil in the plenum and turbo output so I am imagineing the turbo is about to go along with it burning a little oil. So what turbos will bolt up? And what boost and fuel controlers are worth the money? Im not looking to make it a race truck by no means it gets great gasmilage as is (23-25) so i would like to keep it reasonable.

Thanks for the help sorry about the grammar im on my mobile.
 
#2 ·
take look at the coolant temp sensor, when it doesn't read properly it can cause issues like you're describing, just like a cat or a detroit when the coolant temp sensor doesnt read properly.


in fact the 6.5 uses the same temp sensor as pre DDEC 5 series 60, in case you have one handy.
 
#4 ·
i would, they're cheap. check the connector as well, make sure the pins aren't pushed open.
 
#5 ·
The oil might not be coming from the turbo but instead from the cdr valve that is mounted to passenger side valve cover. It is a crank case breather similar to a pcv on a gasser motor. The cdr is plumbed in to the turbo inlet plumbing, if the cdr is stuck open or if there is a lot of blow by in the motor then oil will get sucked through the turbo then blown into the intake. The cdr should be replaced every 30,000 miles.

A good turbo to upgrade to would be something like a Holset HX40 from a cummins pick up truck. The lift pump you first mentioned can be had from this site, leroydiesel.com
 
#6 ·
Any particular brand to avoid or get? I dont wanna haveto do any of this twice, its made it 264k with no issues till this started acting up.
 
#8 ·
Welcome to Diesel Place........duneracerweston....if you do decide to do a turbo upgrade, none are an actual direct bolt-on. We use predominantly Holsets, HY35W, HX35, HE351CW, WH1C, etc., from the 5.9L Cummins or the HX40 from the Volvo 9.0L. All of these can be mounted with a minimal amount of modification and all are a really noticeable difference. Will not be any detriment to economy, actually the inverse is more likely due to reduced drive pressure. That is, as long as the pure joy of the power increase from a free flowing turbo does not give you "Heavy-foot-itiss".....LOL.
 
#10 ·
Yes, X2 on what turbonater said. Just a side note, the gm turbo has a T-3 mounting flange, so when looking around, look for one of those.
 
#11 ·
Awesome guys, thanks for all the help! Ill order the breather vent and coolant sensor this week!

Now the tubos have me interested, I do have a heavy foot but the fun wears off lol so which turbo is the easiest to fit and what do I need to do? This thing is already a full straight pipe, no cat or muffler.

You guys rock.
 
#12 ·
Just take a look at the other treads here in the performance section, lots of turbo swaps have been done by members here and usually the results rock!
 
#13 ·
Even if you have access to a large diesel engines turbo, it could work with promising results, anything in the 350-400hp range and no larger then 9-10L if turbo lag is a concern.

Compressor side is usually tailored to the horsepower output and turbine side is tailored to the engine displacement and rpm range.

So a 10L low revving 350hp diesel could have the same airflow needs as our 6.5 turning 4000 trying to break 300hp.

Food for thought if you can pull the right strings.
 
#14 ·
Well turbo swap takes back seat till I can get it to stop going into limp mode, it died running down the road batteries are hot, terminals clean. I just put a good pmd in the bumper as soon as it started this, helped a little, has the #9 resistor in the pmd, so that's the #1 thing I need to figure out.I checked the plug on the coolant sensor, its clean and making contact, hoping to pick up a sensor over the weekend. If that doesn't help what else could it be?
 
#16 ·
It gave 4 but im outta state and dont have the list, I remember2 said something about a sensor being to slow and another said the same sensor was to fast
 
#17 ·
Sounds like a pulse width timing DTC. That would be IP/PMD related if those are the codes. ~FH
 
#18 ·
I put a good pmd on it and that didn't change it any, its not constant so I dont think its a injection pump
 
#19 · (Edited)
We need positive ID on the trouble codes to help with meaningful troubleshooting.

If the ECM has gone into limp mode you'll have to clear the code that caused it before you try to remedy the problem. Changing a PMD without disconnecting the batteries won't get you out of limp mode IF the PMD (or anything else) was the problem.

Disconnect the batteries, turn on headlights, step on the brake pedal, turn off headlights, then reconnect the batteries and see if limp mode goes away. If not, repeat that process and disconnect the ECT sensor plug before starting. If the ECT sensor is causing the limp mode unplugging it takes it out of the DTC loop and the ECM will revert to a programmed cold start (high resistance) using OEM parameters.

The ECT operates on a 5v reference signal. Put a volt meter on the ECT connector to make sure the signal voltage does not exceed 5v for some reason. More than that may cause the ECM to default to limp mode. Also clean and check the ground wires on the manifold lug above #8 cylinder.

Running with the ECT sensor unplugged won't hurt anything. But it may crank a little longer during hot starts because the stepper motor will be advancing the IP timing a little. ~FH
 
#20 ·
Awesome! Ill do that when I get back to the truck, im outta state with family and wont be back till Sunday late, thanks for your help!
 
#21 ·
codes are
P0251
P0370
606
P1217

all these were BEFORE i relocated the pmd, no i drove the truck yesterday (28*F) and it ran about 2 min and died like you turned the key off, i turned the key off then on and tried to re fire and it wouldnt so i pulled over and about 15 min later it fired again ran about 1 min then did it again, waited 20 min still no go, i can hear the lift pump from inside the cab and it SOUNDS normal, but i lift the hood and very little fuel to the filter bleed, and the oil sensor went crazy on me, i have the ops in hand and went to change it and WERE THE HELL DOES IT GO? its not in the vally under the fuel pump like ive read and seen it before, so were could it be on this truck? i know this is the wrong area to post a issue with it considering this is the performance section but i was hoping you guys could help before starting a new thread.
thanks.
 
#22 ·
sounds like you have an older motor swapped in that truck... it is behind the driverside head... does your turbo oil supply come from the front of the block, or from the back of the motor? if it comes from the back, it is most likely a 6.2l motor.... have a look behind the drivers side head with a mirror and see if you can read the cast numbers on the block..... when you do your OPS, make sure you buy a 12"-14" grease gun hose, and an adapter, so you can screw in the hose first, and the OPS after where its easy to work on out in the open...
 
#23 ·
Ok, so it is under the intake but not were I was expecting it to be. So I got it changed, cranked but no fire, eventually it fired, but it was in limp mode so i shut it down and it fired up perfectly, check engine light went out, so i took off to town in it to fill my off-road diesel tank never died or stalled, till I pulled in the drive and it died like you turned the key off... cracked the bleader on the fuel filter turned the key, its moving fuel as usual. So i thought fuel solenoid, grabbed a old one off a old pump swapped it, no change, hard starts, cranks the first time in limp mode then second time its fine but im still getting cel now and im out of ideas.. its erratic so im thinking sensor?
 
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