Diesel Place banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 96 6.5l TD 5sp, been haveing a few issues and its stumped me. I already relocated the pmd to the bumper, so thats not my issue. Its a odd issue it goes into limp mode if you crank it after its warm 160* or more on the dash, but it you crank it cold it will run perfect all day, as long as you dont kill it and restart it. Im lost with this one, if it was a big diesel motor like a Cat or Detroit id have it whooped. So is there a sensor I can change? Is this a common issue?

Also, I pulled the plenum the other day to run the wires for the pmd and found oil in the plenum and turbo output so I am imagineing the turbo is about to go along with it burning a little oil. So what turbos will bolt up? And what boost and fuel controlers are worth the money? Im not looking to make it a race truck by no means it gets great gasmilage as is (23-25) so i would like to keep it reasonable.

Thanks for the help sorry about the grammar im on my mobile.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
take look at the coolant temp sensor, when it doesn't read properly it can cause issues like you're describing, just like a cat or a detroit when the coolant temp sensor doesnt read properly.


in fact the 6.5 uses the same temp sensor as pre DDEC 5 series 60, in case you have one handy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok so I would replace the coolant temp sensor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
i would, they're cheap. check the connector as well, make sure the pins aren't pushed open.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,299 Posts
The oil might not be coming from the turbo but instead from the cdr valve that is mounted to passenger side valve cover. It is a crank case breather similar to a pcv on a gasser motor. The cdr is plumbed in to the turbo inlet plumbing, if the cdr is stuck open or if there is a lot of blow by in the motor then oil will get sucked through the turbo then blown into the intake. The cdr should be replaced every 30,000 miles.

A good turbo to upgrade to would be something like a Holset HX40 from a cummins pick up truck. The lift pump you first mentioned can be had from this site, leroydiesel.com
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Any particular brand to avoid or get? I dont wanna haveto do any of this twice, its made it 264k with no issues till this started acting up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,299 Posts
Ac delco, check rockauto.com thats where i got mine, might be listed under pcv
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,490 Posts
Welcome to Diesel Place........duneracerweston....if you do decide to do a turbo upgrade, none are an actual direct bolt-on. We use predominantly Holsets, HY35W, HX35, HE351CW, WH1C, etc., from the 5.9L Cummins or the HX40 from the Volvo 9.0L. All of these can be mounted with a minimal amount of modification and all are a really noticeable difference. Will not be any detriment to economy, actually the inverse is more likely due to reduced drive pressure. That is, as long as the pure joy of the power increase from a free flowing turbo does not give you "Heavy-foot-itiss".....LOL.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,299 Posts
Haha, i think I suffer from a chronic case of "Heavy-foot-itiss"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
537 Posts
Yes, X2 on what turbonater said. Just a side note, the gm turbo has a T-3 mounting flange, so when looking around, look for one of those.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Awesome guys, thanks for all the help! Ill order the breather vent and coolant sensor this week!

Now the tubos have me interested, I do have a heavy foot but the fun wears off lol so which turbo is the easiest to fit and what do I need to do? This thing is already a full straight pipe, no cat or muffler.

You guys rock.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,299 Posts
Just take a look at the other treads here in the performance section, lots of turbo swaps have been done by members here and usually the results rock!
 

·
Knows The 6.5
Joined
·
3,142 Posts
Even if you have access to a large diesel engines turbo, it could work with promising results, anything in the 350-400hp range and no larger then 9-10L if turbo lag is a concern.

Compressor side is usually tailored to the horsepower output and turbine side is tailored to the engine displacement and rpm range.

So a 10L low revving 350hp diesel could have the same airflow needs as our 6.5 turning 4000 trying to break 300hp.

Food for thought if you can pull the right strings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well turbo swap takes back seat till I can get it to stop going into limp mode, it died running down the road batteries are hot, terminals clean. I just put a good pmd in the bumper as soon as it started this, helped a little, has the #9 resistor in the pmd, so that's the #1 thing I need to figure out.I checked the plug on the coolant sensor, its clean and making contact, hoping to pick up a sensor over the weekend. If that doesn't help what else could it be?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,866 Posts
If it's going into limp mode it's throwing codes. What are they? I have a feeling I know what you're going to say (about which codes they are) but lets hear it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It gave 4 but im outta state and dont have the list, I remember2 said something about a sensor being to slow and another said the same sensor was to fast
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,217 Posts
It gave 4 but im outta state and dont have the list, I remember2 said something about a sensor being to slow and another said the same sensor was to fast
Sounds like a pulse width timing DTC. That would be IP/PMD related if those are the codes. ~FH
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I put a good pmd on it and that didn't change it any, its not constant so I dont think its a injection pump
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,217 Posts
We need positive ID on the trouble codes to help with meaningful troubleshooting.

If the ECM has gone into limp mode you'll have to clear the code that caused it before you try to remedy the problem. Changing a PMD without disconnecting the batteries won't get you out of limp mode IF the PMD (or anything else) was the problem.

Disconnect the batteries, turn on headlights, step on the brake pedal, turn off headlights, then reconnect the batteries and see if limp mode goes away. If not, repeat that process and disconnect the ECT sensor plug before starting. If the ECT sensor is causing the limp mode unplugging it takes it out of the DTC loop and the ECM will revert to a programmed cold start (high resistance) using OEM parameters.

The ECT operates on a 5v reference signal. Put a volt meter on the ECT connector to make sure the signal voltage does not exceed 5v for some reason. More than that may cause the ECM to default to limp mode. Also clean and check the ground wires on the manifold lug above #8 cylinder.

Running with the ECT sensor unplugged won't hurt anything. But it may crank a little longer during hot starts because the stepper motor will be advancing the IP timing a little. ~FH
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Awesome! Ill do that when I get back to the truck, im outta state with family and wont be back till Sunday late, thanks for your help!
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top