ok so just ordered diamond eye 4'' exhuast kit, and K&N intake kit. but was wonderin whats the biggest or best turbo to fit my 6.5? also new to diesels but could a 6.0 ford turbo be modded to fit it?
that's why I made sure I stated slightly more lag than the GM8 but worth every damn RPM from 1800 to redline as this turbo pulls hard all the way up to 3500 and gives up little on the bottom end, especially when timing/fuel can be manipulated from the dash like mine.
I've been contemplating turbos for a while now because of the inherent defeciencies of the GM8 and this has me thinking again...but the biggest reason I keep getting turned off the "common" bolt on GM8 replacements (no names) is because I keep getting scared off by all the reports of them being incredibly laggy at lower RPM.
I tow a lot and can not deal with the engine being turbo lagged so bad that I smoke out the intersection everytime I take off from a stop with the trailer in tow, nor can I wait for half the onramp to be behind me before the turbo reaches full spool and the power comes online.
I have six tunes on the fly and the one that's close to a stock tune for mileage, I can only make 10/12 lbs. of boost steady and maybe flash to 14lbs.
The lag on that tune isn't that bad, just a puff of black smoke and away she goes, it is has more power than GM8 only because it breathes better in the upper rpms.
If you were to use this turbo for towing you would need a reflash for the power to tow,on my tow tune the truck pulls hard from 1.800 up.
Without a multi tune you would have to drive the pedal [APP]as well as the tune, if you know what I mean.
Or talk to the tuner and tell him all info pertaining to the use of the tune;weight gears A/M trans and so on. Also weight to be towed, to get the advance and timing curves at optimum levels.
I keep getting turned off the "common" bolt on GM8 replacements (no names) is because I keep getting scared off by all the reports of them being incredibly laggy at lower RPM.
I can't make a comparison to the no name turbos but I feel the one I'm running is minimal in lag, easpecially if you can resist the urge to just mash the pedal.
I tend to run about 59/60 MPH when towing, never more - anything beyond that is just dumping diesel out the window IMHO.
I'm a conservative driver, my truck pretty much never sees throttle positions above 50% unless towing, and even then I don't honk on it unless it's a situation that demands it - short onramp, passing, etc. This is where my lag concerns come in - I don't drive aggressively enough to spool a huge laggy turbo.
I already have the DE exhaust and WMI.
What makes you so insistent on needing a tune? Have you experience with this turbo on the stock OBD2 era tune?
I tow with a stock burb/GM8 but it could use a little more. I was interested in this for my CUCV. I like that you can do what you want with the exhaust outlet.
No. But I'm assuming that the stock tunes aren't that far from eachother between those years.
I just know that with six tunes each one has it's own strentghs and shortcomings.
Depending on driving style. I tow and drive like I stole it 80% of the time, but the reason I say you would need a tune is you won't get the full benefit of a bigger turbo with out a tune/even a mild one.
With out a tune you would mainly benefit from lower egts and more power at 2500 and above from better breathing[less restricted turbo] which would allow you to go to 3grand or higher if need be, but your computer might de-fuel at those rpms with out more fuel in the program.
[With out a tune you would mainly benefit from lower egts and more power at 2500 and above from better breathing[less restricted turbo] which would allow you to go to 3grand or higher if need be, but your computer might de-fuel at those rpms with out more fuel in the program.
1/ Maximize fuel efficiency when empty. It sounds like at empty cruise you're making zero boost which is ideal for this, but when called upon it spools fast enough to let the truck wake up and get out of it's own way, correct?
2/ Provide more power/torque to maintain 60MPH in OD without the need to downshift to third on anything bigger than a small grade/overpass on the highway.
3/ When a downshift is inevitable (Hey, the 6.5 only has so much grunt), I would like it to not turn into a gutless wonder that sits at 2700 RPM and falls on it's face until I feather the pedal to cause an upshift again, and then continue in the next taller gear.
My other idea was the gear vendor over/under drive in order to work around the turbo's shortcomings by gearing alternatively - keep it inside the GM8's sweet spots and it'll behave better. Not a substitute, but another option I've had in mind.
it would most deffenitley defuel. I run into the same problem with my truck that now has the banks sidewinder 6.2 turbo. any time the truck gets over 10 psi for more then a few moments, the fuel then gets cut off. So an upgraded pcm would have to be considered with these boost pressures, i have no problem hitting 15+psi unloaded in 3rd but then ofcourse defuel
You can have a tune made to get that. I barely touch the pedal to maintain 70mph.
Provide more power/torque to maintain 60MPH in OD without the need to downshift to third on anything bigger than a small grade/overpass on the highway.
With a proper tune you could have the tuner optimize it for 1/4 to 1/2 pedal and up with the fuel and timing for towing.
You will have to probably meet in the middle somewhere in the tune department but it can be a good compromise that will get you closer to both avenues that you are trying to achieve.
subclatter--- I have some questions for you about the turbo. Maybe some of these you've already answered and I just didn't see them.
1-- What is the diameter of the air intake into the turbo?
2-- What is the diameter of the output air tube to the intake manifold? From the pics I'm guessing it is the same as stock.
3-- In looking at post #35, pics # 1 & 2. How many inches between the wastegate pot and the verticle surface of the inner fender? Does the pot encroach into the stock flat panel filter housing space enough to require moving the filter housing? I don't have the K 47 airbox but I do have a K 47 like gasser airbox available that I'm considereing trying to use. It is slightly wider than the current space between the turbo and inner fender so to use it I'll need to move the batt up to take the place of the flat panel airbox. So, if I decide to use this turbo the available space left between the pot and the fender is important.
Don
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