Diesel Place banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
382 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Anybody see a step by step instruction on a GM Turbo rebuild? Mines in need of one. I'm also pretty sure I'll need new vanes, intake & exhaust, since the turbo wore out enough that both sides have contacted the housing. I've seen kits but no place to get other parts:(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
It's not too bad to do...
1. remove the 4 bolts holding the exhaust 90 remove that
2. remove the bolts holding the exhaust turbine housing (use a good penatrating oil on them or heat, they also can only come out so far and then you have to start seperating the housing for them to clear... I used a plastic dead blow hammer to tap it apart just make sure it doesn't **** on there or it will hit the exhaust turbine and leave marks on it.)
3. remove the intake half of the turbine housing (that ones easy)
4. Remove the intake turbine from the shaft. The threads are left hand threads and you can put a wrench on the exhaust side it is part of the shaft (exhaust side doesn't come off it's part of the shaft) The turbine will pull right off after the nut is off.
5. tap the shaft out the back with a rubber or soft faced mallet once it starts moving it goes easy.
6, now the fun part... there are a few screws holding the seal plate in. They are easy to reove just make sure you use the right sized torx bit and when you put the bit in tap it a few times pretty firmly to break the locktite so they will turn. After you get the screws out use a spanner wrench and turn the plate while pulling outward it will come off.
7. the next plate (thrust plate) is a little tougher. the screws holding that one in are very soft and strip out the torx part easy. make sure you have a good fit with your torx bit and once again tap on it firmly to break the locktite hold and be careful not to strip them out. once you get them out you just pull out the thrust plate and you are down to the journal bearings.
8. pull the intake side journal bearing out, then turn over to the exhaust side and remove the snap ring holding the journal in and remove that one.
9. Clean very well and reverse order to reasemble...
10. There is a sealing ring right in front of the exhaust turbine, and the two rings on the intake side.
Depending on what kit you buy some come with a little more parts than others. I've done quite a few of these now and once you get into it, it is pretty much self explainitory...
All threads are right handed except for the intake turbine nut.
On reassembly I always put a small drop of removable locktite on the threads of the thrust plate screws and the seal plate screws.
If you have any other questions or need help just ask I'll try my best to help.
Also if anyone in here has better ways (or corrections) to do any of the steps please speak up... I'm always looking for better ways to do anything...

P.S. I hope this is helpful.. I've been meaning to sit down someday and write up a full step by step but have been to busy to do it. When I did my first one nobody would help me at all not even the slightest (didn't belong here yet). So I just took my time and luckily didn't do to bad on my first one. I've heard of people since I did my first one that stripped out the intake side nut on the shaft and stripped the screws on the thrust plate.
Good luck and take your time and lay out the parts in order if you need and after this one you will be a pro at them...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Please take pictures when you do this. They would be great to have in an archive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
382 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks! I got down to the seal plate on my own and needed help for the rest:)

This will help with the rest. Like I mentioned rebuild kits are easy to find but what about other parts? Anybody have a line on those?
 
Joined
·
2,424 Posts
i did mine when i just needed seale so the the kit was all i needed. $114. my cost for that.i did not find it that hard and i wish i would have had a camara.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
I have one apart right now I'll try to get out and take pictures of it and step by step it. Hopefully this weekend if work allows...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
382 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Still looking for a turbo parts, specifically vanes, supplier!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
382 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
BTT. Tried Pinnensular - no go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
a local turbo shop used a larger phillips self tapping wood screw, they threaded one into each side of the seal plate and then pried up on the screws and the plate came right out, if yours is really stuck try that trick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Thank You for posting these instructions. Very helpful. One question though, is there torque specs for the plate screws and for the compressor shaft nut ?
Thank You in advance
MrMarty51
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Got the turbo totally dismantled without breaking a bolt or a screw. Had to heat the cast iron around four of the bolts to get them to move, then, let it cool for a while and give them a shot of Seafoam deep creep. Got the rest of them out after it got cool enough to handle.
Thank You to the guy that posted about tapping the torx head screws to get them to move. It worked like a charm. Reading the post about the self tapping screws to remove the center bearing flange, i tapped the holes with a no.8 tap and run in a screw on each one then was able to pry out the center mount with a couple of pry bars.
Got things all cleaned up and went into the five gallon bucket of carb cleaner to get the most stubborn of the carbon.
As much oil as was inside of this turbo, I believe it was getting real close to having a run away.
I am thinking of going to the wrecking yard tomorrow and seeing about getting a throttle body the same size as the turbo pipe, incorporating that between the turbo and the engine for a run away engine safety shut down. Hook it up just like it is a throttle except for have a cable rigged to hold it open and another to pull it shut. 🤷‍♂️😹
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
16,275 Posts
Thank You for posting these instructions. Very helpful. One question though, is there torque specs for the plate screws and for the compressor shaft nut ?
Thank You in advance
MrMarty51
Here is the torque specs thread:
 
  • Like
Reactions: MrMarty51

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,411 Posts
Usually when the turbine wheel and compressor wheel are damaged the best solution is to buy a center cartridge assembly... Parts to rebuild one will exceed the cost of the cartridge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
The turbo components has suffered no damages. Just wanting to kit it so I dont have a runaway sometime.
260,000 + miles and the turbo was loaded with oil. I think I caught this thing just in the nick of time. LOL
Still looking for the torque specs for them small screws and the shaft nut. LOL
I did send John Faddis a message but they are closed down until the 27th. I hope He dont wait until then to reply, I`m needing the truck before then.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
16,275 Posts
The turbo components has suffered no damages. Just wanting to kit it so I dont have a runaway sometime.
260,000 + miles and the turbo was loaded with oil. I think I caught this thing just in the nick of time. LOL
Still looking for the torque specs for them small screws and the shaft nut. LOL
I did send John Faddis a message but they are closed down until the 27th. I hope He dont wait until then to reply, I`m needing the truck before then.
This rebuild thread offers a little more info:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
This rebuild thread offers a little more info:
Thank You OkDually. That was most helpful.
I installed the Wicked Wheel 2 turbine. The bore in the turbine was a bit too tight for My liking. I thought about the old Triumph aluminum pistons and dropping them in boiling water to fit the wristpins into them, but then I also had the thought, what if the wheel cracks because of the tight fit. Off to the machine shop, he made that wheel fit just like the original unit.
There is a carbon groove into the shaft on the exhaust end, just inside of the sealing ring. That carbon is caked in bery hard. I used a hacksaw to carve that crap out of the groove. 👍😹
Put together the center section and made sure the shaft spun free. It took a light nudge with a hammer handle to get the shaft to seat in proper.
Installed the end covers and etc as explained in that other thread, installed the turbo, fired up the engine before hooking turbo to the intake manifold just to make sure it was not going to spew oil and create a run away engine situation. All was good. Hooked the manifold to the turbo, fired up the enjun, let it warm up some, revved on the throttle some. For the very first time I heard the turbo spool, and, unspool. What a beautiful sound. I dont know about performance or if the EGTs will be lower but, I believe I am going to like this Wicked Wheel thing.
Next job was advancing the timing slightly. I had made a wrench from a ratcheting reversible box end wrench, i could get to all the nuts on the injection pump with this device. I give the pump a slight twist to the left and tightened the nuts. Warmed the engine to near operating temp then, Using the Autel MaxiAP200 ALDL adaptor I turned on the ignition and set up the scan adaptor then checked for codes and just to be safe cleared them. Stepped the accelerator to the floor for over the 45 seconds, release the pedal, ignition off for over 30 seconds then fired it up. It went through the relearn process and didnt skip a beat. I thought nothing had happened until I looked at the app on My phone, the timing had gone from -.53 to a -1.43 or clise to that number, so, I will leave it alone for now and see how the fuel economy is doing. It was at 17 MPG before the reset.
all in all I think I am going to be quite happy with the changes.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 56pan

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
A couple of screen shots from the Autel Maxi AP200 Reader and app.
635763
635764
BE60B00A-347D-4090-A11C-F8F830FFCD42.jpeg
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top