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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Friends..

I am new to the diesel world and have a stock 99' 6.5TD Suburban. What does the vaccum pump operate in the 6.5TD? How does the Turbo Master work? How do they work together. I just read in a thread the vaccum pump can be remove with a Turbo Master install in the "F" engines, which I have.

I want to install gauges and exhaust before a Turbo Master and PCM reprogram.

Thanks
 

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If you have EGR stuff, you'll need the vacuum pump to keep that part going. If a HD engine (no EGR) the vacuum pump only does the wastegate actuator on the turbo.
 

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He has an F, so no EGR.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So how does a Turbo Master work? I have read about people making them for a few bucks.. Or buy one for around 100 bucks. I would rather make one :) but I need to understand what is does and why.

Information please

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Homework assignment

It's in the library of FAQ's:

° Wastegate/turbo operation. Turbo/Wastegate Operation
° How does the turbo work and what can go wrong with it.

Information provided...
 

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try this post. www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67572 what the turbo master does is allows you to dial in as much or little boost and hold it at that level. stock setup would allow boost to come up to about 12 lbs and then it would drop down slowly. even with foot to the floor. the way mine is now i can hold 10 lbs until i let my foot off the pedal. or driving down a flat road it will hold 3-4 lbs. would i say make one yourself. i did and i'm not a mechanic but have some knowledge and it worked for me. just not sure about quantums question about fooling the ecm. ?????
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This is how I think a Turbo Master works. The spring tension holds the wastegate closed until the exhaust gas pressure is greater than spring tension. Then the exhaust gas pressure is able to open the wastegate and not exceed more boost than what the spring tension is allowing. Thus creating a repeatable and consistant boost pressure and making the vacuum pump not needed with the "F" engine.

Right?? Please correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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You got it!
 

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get a boost gauge prior to doing a turbo master set up. and install the gauges for about 200 miles of driving PRIOR to making up the home made turbo master. reason being it'll give you an idea of how accurate your boost gauge is. on stock the boost should hit no more than 12 lbs and slowly drop off. if we were assume your boost gauge is inaccurate and shows 6-7 lbs on full pedal. well if you do the tm and set it at 12 lbs in reality you could unkowingly be set at 18-19 lbs. then boom...
 

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This brings up the question of just how accurate boost guages are?

I was entertaining the idea of getting a TM myself, but after installing my gauges I noticed that my boost would actually peak at 13lbs with wide open throttle going up a hill unloaded. This is with the stock vacuum pump and would seem a little high since I've never really heard of anyone mentioning their stock system hitting 13lbs (off course I live in AK and it's winter so my ambient/intake temps are probably lower than most right now). My boost seems to steadily rise and will not drop until I either let off on the pedal or the truck shifts, so I'm thinking I should just ride it out with the stock system until the vacuum pump goes.

It just goes to show you that guages are important and should be near, if not at the top of the list of mods. I will eventually go with a TM, but it's no longer high on my list.

Any estimates on how much HP can be gained by removing the vacuum pump, leaving one less belt driven item for the engine to deal with?
 

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well the drag racers say 15 hp for every belt driven accessory, but thats at an rpm much higher than the 6.5 run. I think it would quieten up the engine a little though. I wonder what going to electric fans would do for hp?
 
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