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Discussion Starter #1
I've got an 84 K10 with the 6.2. Driving down the road today it made a pop sound then quit. Thought I threw a belt or blew a hose off, all that is good. I haven't been able to start it since. I pulled the fuel return line from the top of the IP and put a clear hose on it and spun the engine, did not get any fuel out of it. I have fuel getting through the filter to the fuel line that feeds the IP. The start solenoid on the IP is getting power, I can hear it click as I plug and unplug the power wire. Truck usually starts fine, glow plugs work fine. I have been searching forums for a way to test the IP to verify my suspicion but have not found anything "definitive" yet. Any help will be greatly appreciated!
 

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Just loosen a few injector line fittings and crank the engine over to see if in fact there's fuel squirting out of the fittings.If so,the pump is probably okay.I've heard of some pumps snapping off the driveshaft because of rotor seizure.I have a pump here from a 5.7 diesel that had sheared off its driveshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I tried spraying WD40 down the intake, not even a sputter. Is there something on the IP that would cause a "no fuel" condition besides a trashed IP?
 

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Are you sure the solenoid working right?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I can hear the solenoid activating when I unplug and plug it back in. Is there another way to check it? I removed the return line from the top of the IP and put a clear hose on it, there was no fuel flow when the engine was cranked over, but it does dribble some fuel out.
 

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have to tryied to blow air back through the line to see if something is clogging the line. if it still doesnt work you might of lost the shaft
 

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You say it dribbles fuel out, does it look like there's air mixed with the fuel?

That would tell you that you have air in your fuel supply which could cause a stall and no start condition.
 

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How many miles are on this pump?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The truck has over 170,000 mi, don't know if it's the original pump. When fuel dribbles out of the IP, it has no air in it, the engine quit while I was driving down the road and had been running about 10 minutes before it suddenly quit. I'll be pulling the pump out this week when I get a chance and see if I sheared the sgaft, been told I can tell immediately after the pump is removed.
 

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yeah, the driveshaft will just be free wheeling in there. Depending on what driveshaft is in it, you might be able to just pull it right out. Depends on when it was rebuilt last, older ones had an O-ring, new ones have a snap ring that you can't just pull out.
 

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My pump is old and I have never done one so i am very curious how this turns out. Please let us know...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just finished pulling out the IP and the rotor(part that connects to the timing gear) spins easily by hand, no resistance. I am assuming that this means the hydraulic head and shaft are shot. I need a new pump, right?
 

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you should be able to find a rebuilt pump (once you are sure it is the pump) for under $300 - if not i can tell you where to get one.
Paul
 

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I seen some rebuilds on ebay go for $250.
 

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call Tim Wagner at www.accuratediesel.com, very nice person. If the core is rebuildable it should only be about $215, but if the head and rotor are seized up and it is not rebuildeable then there is a $65 core charge - that's what i paid one year ago. I think he just keeps his overhead low, working by himself from home and he said he also does some part time teaching in the field of automotive technology, so he just doesn't have to charge a fortune for what he does.
Paul
 

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From what I learned in automotive school you cant rebuild IPs yourself. The clearences are so tight you need very expensive computer controled machines to measure down to .000001mm. Thats what me teacher said, he may be full os BS, wouldn't surprise me.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Finally got a correct rebuilt IP after a little labeling error, anyhow just got the pump installed and started cranking trying to get fuel through the pump. How long does this usually take? I've cranked it over about 10 times for 10-15 seconds each with a starter cooldown period between each cranking. I have no fuel to the injectors or coming from the top of the IP, I do have fuel up to the IP inlet. How long shoyuld I crank to get fuel? Before the IP went out the truck was an easy starter!
 

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Use some liberal shots of wd 40 down the intake to assist in starting. It will help the engine spin over faster thus helping to purge the air quicker. It usually takes quite a bit of cranking to purge the air from the lines. Injector nuts don't need to be cracked on a 6.2.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I used wd-40 to get it started, finally got it running for a short time. During that time it would not idle but it would restart, now it no longer starts. What gives? First it runs, then it doesn't, is this normal?
 
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