[strummer]

well I just trashed another driver side wheel bearing. First one at 35k and this one at 42K . I hope the next one lasts more than 7k miles. Heck this time my abs light keeps comeing on. It goes back the the shop monday.

 

[dmaxlover]

I wish dynatrac would come out with a conversion like Dodges and Fords.

 

[woodchuck2]

Are they aftermarket? I have always had problems with the aftermarket bearing assembly's. Also make sure that they are torqued properly. This does make a difference.

 

[sideswiper]

mine have over 200000 on them,what are you doing to cause these to go out?

 

[FJ40INTOW]

It might be a good idea to check the torque on the big nut.

 

[strummer]

They are the OEM replacement. My local dealer is doing the swap. He told me today they average 3 trucks a week with this problem.
I don't know what I'm doing to make them go out. I just use the crap out of my truck. It stays in the pasture and gravel roads alot . I'm starting to think my full replacement front bumper might have something to do with it. That think is heavy.

 

[Kawtipping]

They are the OEM replacement. My local dealer is doing the swap. He told me today they average 3 trucks a week with this problem.
I don't know what I'm doing to make them go out. I just use the crap out of my truck. It stays in the pasture and gravel roads alot . I'm starting to think my full replacement front bumper might have something to do with it. That think is heavy.

Under warranty I hope!! As for the bumper being the cause...I doubt it. Our trucks should be able to haul a plow around with no problems. I have been lucky so far. Still on the original hubs at 65k. Then again, this truck doesn't get a whole lot of abuse. It has seen logging roads in Canada for a rough guess of 10k of those miles...so it hasn't been babied either!

 

[strummer]

Well it was the front hub on the passanger side this time.It was in bad shape. It had a nice blue tint to the bearing. That thing got hot.

 

[heymccall]

Your back brakes pads are binding at application, working the front brakes much harder, ie hotter. The rear pads should slip fit when the caliper is removed. If not, the corrosion under the stainless clips must be removed. Also the front will bind the same way. The #1 cause of sealed bearing failure is heat.

To test simply, with the wheel removed, compress the caliper with a C-clamp and then slide the caliper in and out. Should slide freely. If not, the pin bolts are in need of lube, or if rusted, replacement.
Next, while the caliper is free to slide, attempt to slide each pad on its guide. They should move with little effort. If not, remove the corrosion under the stainless clips by removing the pad mounting ear and carefully removing corrosion from the ear until the pads are slip fit.

 

[greenmax]

Your back brakes pads are binding at application, working the front brakes much harder, ie hotter. The rear pads should slip fit when the caliper is removed. If not, the corrosion under the stainless clips must be removed. Also the front will bind the same way. The #1 cause of sealed bearing failure is heat.

To test simply, with the wheel removed, compress the caliper with a C-clamp and then slide the caliper in and out. Should slide freely. If not, the pin bolts are in need of lube, or if rusted, replacement.
Next, while the caliper is free to slide, attempt to slide each pad on its guide. They should move with little effort. If not, remove the corrosion under the stainless clips by removing the pad mounting ear and carefully removing corrosion from the ear until the pads are slip fit.

that is some awesome information

 

[heymccall]

Your back brakes pads are binding at application, working the front brakes much harder, ie hotter. The rear pads should slip fit when the caliper is removed. If not, the corrosion under the stainless clips must be removed. Also the front will bind the same way. The #1 cause of sealed bearing failure is heat.

To test simply, with the wheel removed, compress the caliper with a C-clamp and then slide the caliper in and out. Should slide freely. If not, the pin bolts are in need of lube, or if rusted, replacement.
Next, while the caliper is free to slide, attempt to slide each pad on its guide. They should move with little effort. If not, remove the corrosion under the stainless clips by removing the pad mounting ear and carefully removing corrosion from the ear until the pads are slip fit.

Being in charge of a fleet, I used to see this and always wonder ?why?
I've incorporated a policy of checking the calipers and pads for this every other tire rotation. What I've learned is that the factory uses no corrosion protection (paint or plating) on the cast steel earsand they will all rust and make the brakes less efficient. I also coat the critical corrosion areas with Rustoleum Rust Reformer followed by High Temp engine paint after the corrosion is removed. This has allowed me to achieve 60k to 80k miles per brake job on the 3500's and I've never replaced another wheel bearing since or had had uneven wear on any of the rotors. The grind and paint is usually done every three years (about what it takes to wear out the brakes). It is also important to not use never sieze on any part that touches rubber (slide pins). I only use high temp synthetic grease. It sound like a lot of hassle but I'll take that over safety and only doing brakes every 80k miles anyday.

Ther should be a sticky on how to do brake diagnosis and repair as I'm getting frustrated typing it over and over.

Btw, I'm not saying I'll never have to do a sealed bearing again, but I don't think I'll be doing any soon based on my FLEET's experiences.

 

[Tutts]

heymccall, why don't you write it up once and put it in the DIY section? This would save you having to constantly write it up, and then the rest of us could just go there and find the info. I know I would appreciate this info.