Joined
·
11,645 Posts
Well, now that I have this picture resize thing figured out... Here are some more pics for you all to ponder. This is the Trans go kit for the allison. This kit is from Steve Cole/TTS performance. Please note this is simply an overview of the install, please dont regard this as complete directions. Eric
![]()
Here is the Kit as you will see it when you open the box, what you cant see in the pic is the C2 clutches that are under the top layer in the box. The kit also includes the springs to repair the drainback issue after sitting for a week or longer.
![]()
This handy Kent Moore jig sure helps hold this heavy unit. It weighs around 400 lbs so be carefull.
![]()
Once your staring into the top of the unit, remove all the bolts except the ones shown, this will allow you to remove the front module assembly.
![]()
Here is the view with the front module removed. You see the rotating assembly with the pto gear on it. This contains the C1 and C2 clutch assemblies
![]()
This is the rotating assembly as viewed from the bottom.. The large gear in the center is the P1 sun gear
![]()
Gut that assembly out to get te C2 piston out which will be modified with this kit
![]()
Here you see the C2 return spring assembly with the Trans GO return springs installed. All of these springs were replaced with the springs supplied in the kit.
![]()
The C2 piston has some orificed holes, you will use the kit supplied drill bit to enlarge the hole just deep enough to install the cup plug with a very tiny orifice in it. The plug is laying upside down from how it is installed in the piston. You will do this on both holes in the piston. There is also a step in which you will drill through the piston side. The picture of this did not turn out well enough to post. Be sure to follow the steps in the kit.
![]()
Here are the C2's I took out of my tranmission. I have limped it twice both times in 5th gear.
![]()
After completeing the C2 mods, reassemble the rotating drum and move on to the valve body. Here the valve body is removed and seperated. Notice my work bench of choice in the picture. I use an old radiator to work off, this allows the fluid to drain through and still keeps a of the small parts in order, a clean work area with no oil standing helps alot.
![]()
Included with the kit is the shown drill bit, use it to enlarge the two holes circled.
![]()
Here are the holes after drilling, you cant see it in the pic, but I use a file to flat file the plate after drilling, this removes any burs that may have been left by the drillling process
![]()
These are the OEM trim valves, on top is the "B" trim valve assembly and the bottom is the "A" trim valve assembly. You can tell the difference in the two valves as the A valve has a small raised portion on it
![]()
These are the Trans go trim valves. Again, "B" is on top. notice that the springs on the right are different and you cant see in pic, but the ends of the valve are hollowed out to accept the small check ball and an even smaller spring that is not very visable in pic.
![]()
Here is the case with the valve body removed.
![]()
When reinstalling the valve body to the case, perhaps the trickiest part is keeping the manual valve pin in place, I use Trans Jel to hold it to the manual valve.
![]()
Its not all painted pretty, but its very stout now.. Lets bring on the power!
![]()
Here is a side by side of the deep pan (left) and the oem pan (right) You can see the difference.
![]()
Driving impressions: I have had this kit in now for a little over 2 weeks and am very happy with it. After installation I cleared the shift adapts to give it a fair start. Initial road test was very smooth, no harsh or abrasive shifts noticed under normal driving. You hardly could tell it was there with normal driving. When I bumped the power up, Its presence was felt, the shifts were clean and firm, not harsh and irratating. The downshifts are all very smooth and not jarring. The tranny temps run right were they were stock. I chose to not install a performance convertor at this time to give the kit a true test of its effect. I think that if you were to pay to have the kit installed, spend the money on the conv up front so you dont get doubled up on labor to r&r the trans twice. I have put the trans through as much abuse as I have to offer as far as my truck goes. I have the Juice/Attitude combo and the Pred. I stacked them both and did some hard launches, some heavy tows in level 4 ( EGT prevented towing in level 5) and no hint of a slip at all. I have not been to the drag strip before or after install so I dont know of any gains there. What I do know is this kit is for the normal driver, meaning the guy who plows snow and pulls his camper/boat and likes to blow away an import here and there. I hope to get some power from Mike Tomac to put this thing through some more torture to see how she holds up. But for the money ( around 2500.00 installed w/ conv) you cant go wrong. It ranks among other Trans Go kits with its quality and ease of install. If your looking to upgrade your trans on a budget, give this kit a serious look....
Eric
<!-- Signature -->
Here is the Kit as you will see it when you open the box, what you cant see in the pic is the C2 clutches that are under the top layer in the box. The kit also includes the springs to repair the drainback issue after sitting for a week or longer.
This handy Kent Moore jig sure helps hold this heavy unit. It weighs around 400 lbs so be carefull.
Once your staring into the top of the unit, remove all the bolts except the ones shown, this will allow you to remove the front module assembly.
Here is the view with the front module removed. You see the rotating assembly with the pto gear on it. This contains the C1 and C2 clutch assemblies
This is the rotating assembly as viewed from the bottom.. The large gear in the center is the P1 sun gear
Gut that assembly out to get te C2 piston out which will be modified with this kit
Here you see the C2 return spring assembly with the Trans GO return springs installed. All of these springs were replaced with the springs supplied in the kit.
The C2 piston has some orificed holes, you will use the kit supplied drill bit to enlarge the hole just deep enough to install the cup plug with a very tiny orifice in it. The plug is laying upside down from how it is installed in the piston. You will do this on both holes in the piston. There is also a step in which you will drill through the piston side. The picture of this did not turn out well enough to post. Be sure to follow the steps in the kit.
Here are the C2's I took out of my tranmission. I have limped it twice both times in 5th gear.
After completeing the C2 mods, reassemble the rotating drum and move on to the valve body. Here the valve body is removed and seperated. Notice my work bench of choice in the picture. I use an old radiator to work off, this allows the fluid to drain through and still keeps a of the small parts in order, a clean work area with no oil standing helps alot.
Included with the kit is the shown drill bit, use it to enlarge the two holes circled.
Here are the holes after drilling, you cant see it in the pic, but I use a file to flat file the plate after drilling, this removes any burs that may have been left by the drillling process
These are the OEM trim valves, on top is the "B" trim valve assembly and the bottom is the "A" trim valve assembly. You can tell the difference in the two valves as the A valve has a small raised portion on it
These are the Trans go trim valves. Again, "B" is on top. notice that the springs on the right are different and you cant see in pic, but the ends of the valve are hollowed out to accept the small check ball and an even smaller spring that is not very visable in pic.
Here is the case with the valve body removed.
When reinstalling the valve body to the case, perhaps the trickiest part is keeping the manual valve pin in place, I use Trans Jel to hold it to the manual valve.
Its not all painted pretty, but its very stout now.. Lets bring on the power!
Here is a side by side of the deep pan (left) and the oem pan (right) You can see the difference.
Driving impressions: I have had this kit in now for a little over 2 weeks and am very happy with it. After installation I cleared the shift adapts to give it a fair start. Initial road test was very smooth, no harsh or abrasive shifts noticed under normal driving. You hardly could tell it was there with normal driving. When I bumped the power up, Its presence was felt, the shifts were clean and firm, not harsh and irratating. The downshifts are all very smooth and not jarring. The tranny temps run right were they were stock. I chose to not install a performance convertor at this time to give the kit a true test of its effect. I think that if you were to pay to have the kit installed, spend the money on the conv up front so you dont get doubled up on labor to r&r the trans twice. I have put the trans through as much abuse as I have to offer as far as my truck goes. I have the Juice/Attitude combo and the Pred. I stacked them both and did some hard launches, some heavy tows in level 4 ( EGT prevented towing in level 5) and no hint of a slip at all. I have not been to the drag strip before or after install so I dont know of any gains there. What I do know is this kit is for the normal driver, meaning the guy who plows snow and pulls his camper/boat and likes to blow away an import here and there. I hope to get some power from Mike Tomac to put this thing through some more torture to see how she holds up. But for the money ( around 2500.00 installed w/ conv) you cant go wrong. It ranks among other Trans Go kits with its quality and ease of install. If your looking to upgrade your trans on a budget, give this kit a serious look....
Eric
<!-- Signature -->
