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I haven't heard from anybody saying what they think about the Transgo kit. I've been debating between it and a co-pilot. How much is the transgo kit? If its quite a bit cheaper I would prefer it till I could afford to go all out, thats if its any good.
 

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I have it and it works very good. Its the most economical solution out there by far. I think it takes care off all of the down falls the Allison may posess. Of course, it depends on how much power you are gonna make and what you wanna do with it. Daily driver, w/ occasional racing and street romping your fine, gonna drag it and truck pull, might wanna spend some more and go with a higher end kit. It also depends on your budget. Regardless of what you do, I highly recommend replacing the stock conv with a stouter unit.


You can get the kit from TTS, Suncoast or myself, Price is about the same which ever way you go. I would advise replacing the C2 clutches while you have it apart and at least check carefully the C1 and C3's.
 

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dmaxalliTech: Did you replace your T/Converter?
 

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Truck's for towing (20k+ lbs through mtn passes), and the occasional cheeky Mustang, and commuting (mostly). Chip: currently the Banks Stinger, looking at upgrading to the 6-gun OR the Juice/Attitude, not planning on stacking chips.


dmaxalliTech, if I read you right, in your opinion, the Transgo should be fine? Suggestions for T/C?


--Rob


dmaxalliTech said:
I have it and it works very good. Its the most economical solution out there by far. I think it takes care off all of the down falls the Allison may posess. Of course, it depends on how much power you are gonna make and what you wanna do with it. Daily driver, w/ occasional racing and street romping your fine, gonna drag it and truck pull, might wanna spend some more and go with a higher end kit. It also depends on your budget. Regardless of what you do, I highly recommend replacing the stock conv with a stouter unit.


You can get the kit from TTS, Suncoast or myself, Price is about the same which ever way you go. I would advise replacing the C2 clutches while you have it apart and at least check carefully the C1 and C3's.
 

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JRMac, no, I didnt replace my conv at time of install. I knew at that time it was a bad idea, but didnt have the extra cash to float a new one at the time. It isnt a huge concern for me becuase I can slip a new conv in the truck in just a few hours, with out paying somebody.. If I had to pay labor, I would have done converter up front to save paying labor to r&r twice.


As far as what conv.... I will likely go with the TTS single disk when I upgrade. I dont think a triple is needed for these applications, however, when you high HP guys go to the more involved kits then I think a triple is an obvious choice.
RyeGuy, The transgo kit will suite your just fine.
 

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When transmission is out for mods, C3 clutches must be checked as well as piston for alignment. If C3's are burned, C4's might be toast as well along with misalignment of the C4 piston and clutches.


Eric


been seeing C1 frictions eating C1 steel plates as far as wear. No heat checks, no burn marks on steels. The C1 steels seem to be worn 2- 4 thousands where the friction material touches(on each side). What have you seen?


mike
 

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Mike,


I will be replacing my C3 clutches next weekend (28th). Can you Post or PM me with more information on the proper way to align the piston?
 

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Amric said:
Mike,


I will be replacing my C3 clutches next weekend (28th). Can you Post or PM me with more information on the proper way to align the piston?

It's very simple the .090 Orifice (hole) faces exactly or as close as possible to 12:00 o'clock position .... That would be the top of case of the Allison or body side ...





Mac Edited by: Mackin
 

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Mackin said:
Amric said:
Mike,


I will be replacing my C3 clutches next weekend (28th). Can you Post or PM me with more information on the proper way to align the piston?

It's very simple the .090 Orifice (hole) faces exactly or as close as possible to 12:00 o'clock position .... That would be the top of case of the Allison or body side ...





Mac


And then what Mack? It doesn't really matter if the squirt hole is at twelve, one, or eleven. It's what you do after that that counts.
 

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Mike L. said:
Mackin said:
Amric said:
Mike,


I will be replacing my C3 clutches next weekend (28th). Can you Post or PM me with more information on the proper way to align the piston?

It's very simple the .090 Orifice (hole) faces exactly or as close as possible to 12:00 o'clock position .... That would be the top of case of the Allison or body side ...





Mac


And then what Mack? It doesn't really matter if the squirt hole is at twelve, one, or eleven. It's what you do after that that counts.

What is this a test ?? Take it teach ,I wont steal your thunder .... I thought he wanted Piston hole direction ... If he's diss'ass'embling and reassembling minus a service manual for the 1000 series he's a bit of a gambler ....





Mac
Edited by: Mackin
 

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Mack


Don't have thunder, don't need it. Tech manual will not help or show you anything on the subject. Ally was designed to be a h/d trans at normal speeds pulling normal loads. It shines under these circumstances most of the time. Most of us here are asking for more. Modifications have to change as well. Ask Joe Webb.
 

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Mike L. said:
Mack


Don't have thunder, don't need it. Tech manual will not help or show you anything on the subject. Ally was designed to be a h/d trans at normal speeds pulling normal loads. It shines under these circumstances most of the time. Most of us here are asking for more. Modifications have to change as well. Ask Joe Webb.

I aligned my C3 C4 along Allisons recomendations .... I rolled out at nearly 500 HP for break in .... Joe Webb dissassembled my tranny do to a TC issue after the fact and for level V upgrade .... Clutch packs looked "never" applied ,ask Joe Webb ...





Mac
Edited by: Mackin
 

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Mac


Allison does not align clutches nor do they show anything on it. They tell you to stack them in the case. They say nothing about squirt hole position because i don't think they care, nor does it matter a lot for normal hauling. As far as what your clutches looked like, i don't know, but it matches what your truck looks like. I have been told it is so clean and buetifull you can eat off the frame rails.( that sir was a complement, not a wise crack)
 

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They say nothing about squirt hole position because i don't think they care,


Mike I can fax you a copy from the Allison manual that I have that surely states to align the "squirt" hole at midnight ....


This is a Service manual direct from Allison .... I have seen others (non allison)that make no refferance ...





Maybe your books are old ....


Mac
 

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Mac


I would really like to see it. I have all the latest manuals from Allison as does Transgo and we have not found that info in print.


mike
 

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There are different opinions on clutch brand, i still prefer B/W oem clutches. I think adding clutches is good as long as you do not make the steel plates thinner.


mike
 

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It's what you do after that that counts.




Mike, not trying to be a smart ass but what do you mean by this? Is there something that needs to be done or should be done or do you just mean that you need to make sure you dont fubar the rest of the build?


I am very interested in this topic since I have been feeling the BOMBing bug and am worried of nuking the allison. I would like to do a trany mod myself and have all the basic tools/lift and a pit. I have built motors and worked on stuff but got cold feet when my last trany blew up and I chickend out at the though of a rebuild. I plow with my truck and currently am running the attitude in 90hp since I dont want to nuke something. Not going to race it seriously just play around. If I did the trany mod I would beg and plead and sign my life and what ever else if the edge would send me the box that they dont really admit to having. If they wont then it will be the big quad. The kit and converter is a heck of a lot cheaper then the auto pilot and I dont think thats an option. Clutches are cheap right? Might as well replace all them since I would have the whole thing apart right?


So this route sound like something I could handle and would work for me?


I know I can hang with a turbo eclipse with 900# of brick in the back but I want more power! I think my truck only slightly scares my GF but I want to go for the squealing in terror power level for my passengers
 

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Just checked my Allison manual, makes no mention of aligning anything, just stack them in. But is is a year old. maybe new ones are updated? Like Mike L said, it makes no difference likely in a stock truck, its something that Trans go found and others that were in devolopment.
 

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I'm on it boys .... Geerhead has the Allison manual it's not in my possession, but I will be in contact with him ....


It was a lose leaflet manual with full pull out schematics on complete tear down and reassemble service manual direct from Allison ....


I'm sure if he reads this he will also confirm ....





Mac
 
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