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I wonder if there is a determination regarding axle weight that is separate from
tire weight? Who knows? The California dmv site I looked at also had the same info that you are posting here, but this excerpt that I quoted was right below that info.
 

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I have never checked all states rules because it was explained to me that the FHWA rules supersedes all. I have towed and been weighed in all the lower 48 states and DC with no problems however.

All this stuff proves is you can legally tow most any RV, doesn't mean EVERYONE should. Very large trailers take a distinct skill set and awareness to safely transport because of the length, height, and vision challenges. Wind and weather conditions should be noted and planned for, you can't just stop "anywhere". It is very easy to end up on a surface street with trees too low, corners too tight to negotiate, and no room to turn around. My own personal fifth wheel is only a 27' Wildcat so that I could maneuver it onto my Kentucky hunting property. Not trying to insult anyone but in my opinion you should "work your way up" to a large trailer.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I wonder if there is a determination regarding axle weight that is separate from
tire weight? Who knows? The California dmv site I looked at also had the same info that you are posting here, but this excerpt that I quoted was right below that info.
I do find it more than a coincidence that my GAWR RR is set exactly to the pound of the Tire Rating. Obviously the mechanic suspension can take more weight but I doubt better tires will change the Rating.

Most of the government sites specifically say better tires and air bags/extra leaf springs don't change the Rating. With the Diesel engine it's the GVWR that is the easiest to exceed.

I am currently towing a 26 foot 5 th wheel with no pull outs weigh in 5500 lbs dry and a 550 lbs pound hitch weight. My truck hardly notices it.

I am thinking about purchasing this trailer.


My current trailer has been across Canada and USA. I don't just go to the local lake, I travel. I have driven Rogers Pass in the winter, Grants pass in the rain at night and the Coquihalla highway in the heat of summer. I worry about loading and braking not so much from a legal stand point but more of safety one. Not all planned vacations work out the way we intended.
 

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You will have no problems towing that trailer, legally or otherwise.

With our era trucks the differences between one ton and 3/4 ton are few basically steel wheels only for one ton and more leaf springs. Rearend is geared the same with the same bearings. I have been told and read on here the frame is also the same but honestly never followed up on that. Again I have 521,000 miles doing this with the original engine(never had a valve cover off), original transmission (I did install a stock LML converter $400), original rearend. My truck is set up just like in my sig. These trucks will handle large amounts of weight safely and reliably.
 

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Concur that you will be fine towing the new trailer.
 

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I do find it more than a coincidence that my GAWR RR is set exactly to the pound of the Tire Rating.
If you check a GMC parts catalog, the axles on a 3/4 ton are the same axles on a 1 ton and even a 1 ton dually. The rear tires and wheels are the weak link in that chain. According to a retired GM engineer (my cousins FIL) if you keep the pin weight below 2500-2600 lbs in a 3/4 ton with E rated tires, a couple of passengers and stuff, you'll never have a problem with payload. As said time and time again, a 3/4 ton and a 1 ton have the same frame/chassis/brakes with the exception of the rear leaf springs.
 

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If you check a GMC parts catalog, the axles on a 3/4 ton are the same axles on a 1 ton and even a 1 ton dually. The rear tires and wheels are the weak link in that chain. According to a retired GM engineer (my cousins FIL) if you keep the pin weight below 2500-2600 lbs in a 3/4 ton with E rated tires, a couple of passengers and stuff, you'll never have a problem with payload. As said time and time again, a 3/4 ton and a 1 ton have the same frame/chassis/brakes with the exception of the rear leaf springs.
I'm going to have to disagree on the statement above re axles being the same. I own a 2500HD and a 3500HD dually. The axle ratio is same for the duramax's at 3.73 but the axles are by no means the same.
 

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A fellow at NAPA parts looked it up and showed me where the parts number is the same for a 2500, 3500, and 3500 dually. I understand its real possible for something to be out of kilter but thats where I got my information.
 

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Maybe so, but they don't look the same, possibly due to parallax error cuz of the dual wheels.
 

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This is the information I wrote down a couple of weeks ago on the 2500 and 3500. Couldn't find anything specifically on a dually so you're most likely correct about the dually. Whatever the case, no doubt a 3500 dually is going to carry a hell of a lot more weight than a 2500 SWD.





Genuine GM AXLE SHAFT - 2015 GMC Sierra 3500 HD (20920666)
Genuine GM AXLE SHAFT - 2015 GMC Sierra 2500 HD (20920666)
 
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