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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Funny. I almost got a lagun-amatic before this fadal. I went to to look at it... and he had this fadal sitting around... said I want it instead lol. Cost a lil bit more but in the end I feel like I did the right thing. (y)
 

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I think so too. The lagun seems to be OK for a manual, but dont know too much about their CNC stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Well... unfortunately I dont have the time to wait for the crossover or high steer stuff...

My 94 sprung a coolant leak a few days ago... and im pretty sure its at the timing cover. Am I going to fix it... yes... but it gives me an excuse to rip the whole truck apart and proceed with with nv4500/4l swap project among SEVERAL other goodies ive been collecting since 2016/17 for it. Ive got two full shelves that I wanna empty and install.

Needless to say... I just went kinda / sorta / so so stock BUT... there was an issue with a caveat...

I couldn't locate any of the 81-86 oem components... not on the cheap at least. The hollow tube... with the adjustable tie rods on each end.

I did however... manage to "upgrade" imho to the previous models steering linkage. It's MUCH MUCH BEEFIER... same basic design. CHEAPER...and above all... AVAILABLE. :ROFLMAO:

So I'm guessing these parts are for the 1976-1980? Its a solid bar. With the driver side casted into the center-link itself. Its about .25in in diameter larger... and solid asf.

Again... plug and play. I think I totaled around 120.00 for the center-link, tie rod, tie rod sleeve and new damper. Well worth it. So for anyone looking for a cheap... simple... upgrade... this is it... (if your running an 81-86 gm k10 k20 k30)

Part# - manuf - description
Ds893 - moog - center link
Es2012s - moog - tie rod adjustment sleeve
Es2011r - moog - passenger tie rod
Ssd15 - moog - steering damper

(y)hope this helps anyone who broke their steering linkage on their 81-86 and are looking for an upgrade thats cheap and readily available.

Special thanks to all whom helped me locate the actual upgrade stuff.. high steer and crossover linkages but they're very expensive and from what I gather intensive... lots of mods. This is plug and play. Will work until I get around to the crossover /high steer conversion.

I WILL be revisiting this in the near future. But this works for now and it's much beefier than the oem stuff from 81-86.
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Hey btw...

I'm not as familiar with the 6.2 stickies as with the 6.5...

Anyone know the torque specs off hand for the castle nut on the tie rods??? 1986 cucv m1009 / k5 blazer
 

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I just make em nice and tight. Never fallen off.

As for tierods, you can get the ones from a 90 or so burb and it's solid bar in the middle with removable tie rod ends. Folks had an old burb when I was growing up and we had that link in our garage for years. It might be the 2500 got the solid bar and the 1500 got a hollow one as well.
 
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Someone should make a section in the sticky where it has a list of common torque specs for square bodies. 👍

Ill start...

81-86 (k5,k10,k20,k30)Tie rod nut
70ft lbs

Have no clue if that spec applies to prior years... Likely. Also no clue about c/2wd. Maybe? Definitely 81-86 k/4wd series.

(No I didn't find it all on me lonesome. Okdually pointed me to the cucv manuals)

🤣
 

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So crossover and high steer are two different things. Crossover takes the steering from the stock front/back "push-pull" style to a side to side push-pull. The thought here is the longer tierod makes for a lower angle change as the wheels move up and down causing less bumpsteer and a couple other things.

High steer is usually done to a rig with crossover steering and moves the tierod above the springs. On a D44/10bolt this is a bit of work to do as you need flap top nuckles on both sides, not just one.

For ease, and if you hit less trees lol!, I would just replace the current tierod with an ORD HD one and leave the factory steering and link position. If you think it really might be an issue again you can go down expensive road. Be ready to probably be out $1000+ by the time you're done if you use newish parts (steering box, knuckles, balljoints, tierods, steering arms, etc).
A lot of time and money goes into propper mods. It can be quite an ordeal. Call me crazy but I believe that light trucks like k5 or k10 under 35's don't need tons unless big block. 10b's get called a lot of names that rhyme with furd no offense but 10b's getr done. I never understood why all the hate and think that a stock k5/10 would be an even more formidable machine with xover and high steer. The steering would be so tight as in less wander and slack in the steering. I would not hesitate at all to tackle a project like that but gather all the parts first. The only issues I could think of would be clearance of rods, leafs and engine xmember at full stuff/extension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Was more or less a fun thread along with available options for the repair. The oem center link is... weak asf... to say it without being too harsh. 🤣

Id prefer a crossover steer setup but ended up using 76-80 linkage. Those mods are too $$$ for my cheap @$$. Worked great. Cheap too. Less than 200$

So... roadhog never the less provided some great information... Not even sure where you were going with this post... at this point I'm just curious now 🤔

"A lot of time and money goes into propper mods. It can be quite an ordeal"
-im going to assume most on this thread are aware of this.... exactly why I found a workaround that was not oem... but not crossover or high steer.

"Call me crazy but I believe that light trucks like k5 or k10 under 35's don't need tons unless big block."
-depends on what you're doing with it. Appearently if you're drinking bourbon and running over trees... it may be a good idea to upgrade the steering 🤣

tons? Unless I'm running 35s? im assuming you're talking about the axle upgrade? I dunno lol

"10b's get called a lot of names that rhyme with furd no offense but 10b's getr done"
-whats a 10b? Huh?

Just saying... bit confuzzled on this one here guy. Very lost indeed. Im more curious what all that ment more than anything at this point. Also; not trying to make light of the post... im just very... very... VERY.... very... confused.
 

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Was more or less a fun thread along with available options for the repair. The oem center link is... weak asf... to say it without being too harsh. 🤣

Id prefer a crossover steer setup but ended up using 76-80 linkage. Those mods are too $$$ for my cheap @$$. Worked great. Cheap too. Less than 200$

So... roadhog never the less provided some great information... Not even sure where you were going with this post... at this point I'm just curious now 🤔

"A lot of time and money goes into propper mods. It can be quite an ordeal"
-im going to assume most on this thread are aware of this.... exactly why I found a workaround that was not oem... but not crossover or high steer.

"Call me crazy but I believe that light trucks like k5 or k10 under 35's don't need tons unless big block."
-depends on what you're doing with it. Appearently if you're drinking bourbon and running over trees... it may be a good idea to upgrade the steering 🤣

tons? Unless I'm running 35s? im assuming you're talking about the axle upgrade? I dunno lol

"10b's get called a lot of names that rhyme with furd no offense but 10b's getr done"
-whats a 10b? Huh?

Just saying... bit confuzzled on this one here guy. Very lost indeed. Im more curious what all that ment more than anything at this point. Also; not trying to make light of the post... im just very... very... VERY.... very... confused.
Ill breakdown some of that lingo

Tons: 1 ton axles
10b:10 bolt axle
35's: 35" diameter tires
 

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Half ton axles and push pull steering are awesome for ordinary to moderate use. I would reinforce the steering box with a brace before the frame cracks if it's not cracked already.
 
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