You guys, I thought the bolts were marked "GM" but after actually cleaning them it turns out they are marked "11.9" which is actually an obscure metric hardness between 10.9 and 12.9 (us between grade 8 and 10).
The guy at fastenal (who actually seemed pretty knowledgeable) had never even heard of it.
Nobody makes flange head bolts in .etric grade 12.9 and you can hardly find any bolts in 11.9, period.
The fastenal guy said they had 12.9 hardness m12x1.75 threaded rod in 3 foot lengths for 200 dollars a rod (I would need two). I would also need 12.9 nuts and washers (I assume minimal expense).
I found a company who sells a rod and nut and washer set for the 6.2/6.5 for about 400 bucks. I guess that's realistically my only choice if I don't want to re use bolts that appear to be crack-prone. (Maybe even from the factory?)
So wow that's a bit of bad news as the stud kit is pretty expensive and I am on a budget.
Thank you for that link I am debating getting those, but what do I do about the cracked outer ones? Buy an 80mm long grade 12.9 and cut the end with a hacksaw so I don't mess with the heat treating, and use a washer under it? I'd be fine with that if it worked...
Guys apparently arp had nothing to do with the head bolt kits you see for sale and there have been issues with them because the studs aren't long enough and they strip out.
We can't find the lower bearing bolts online but sctrailrider is able to get them direct from the manufacturer for about 200 bucks. Also, they are torque to yield and single use bolts which may be why mine cracked, I did re use them once to check the bearings.
So if you need the bearing bolts please send sctrailrider a pm he's been awesome getting me the custom bearings and bolts!
Looking forward to getting the truck back on the road!
Hi - I'm the proud owner of a mostly running 1987 Suburban, with 6.2 of course. This is my first GM diesel so I have a few questions to get it fully on the road.
The oil pressure gauge and temp gauge don't work, so i bought new sending units. However, the wiring connectors seem different. Did I...
Hey everyone. My father-in-law just gave me an 87 C10 that has a 6.2 swap. We tried to crank it the other day but it won't fire. It has probably sat for about 5 years or more.
I read just now that it could take an hour for the engine to self-prime if we do 15 seconds of crank attempts with...
Well I've got the bug for a new motor in my truck, partially because the 6.2 I have now has a nice rod knock in it. So This last Wednesday I went out to a guys place and bought an 86, 660 Casting, 6.2 diesel with what appeared to be 57,000 miles. I cant guarantee the mileage but opening it up...
Hi and greetings from Finland and sorry about any miss spellings.
There seems too be a leak on the passingerside. Im allmost 99% sure that its coming from crossover housing. First i thought it was from head but it comes higher and runs down in headline.
Is there any other place that cooling...
the front u-joint on the rear driveshaft by the t-case seems a bit wobbly.
Prob not doing t-case seal any favors.
I was wondering from your opinion what manufacturers today makes something worth fitting (IE I don't have to do it twice cause was Chinese part) that you've had experience of...
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