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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just did a complete brake job on my dually (rotors and pads) last weekend and I thought I would post a little info about it. Before I did them I had asked on here about how much work it would be and I got little or no info. Basically, a bunch of guys with 2500HD's telling me that it was not a big job.

This is why I posted this in the 3500 forum.

Rest assured, it is a big job. Don't let anyone with a 2500HD tell you it's not.

First, the caliper bolts were very tight, but the caliper bracket bolts were MEGA tight. It took a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 30" long pipe to break them loose.

On the rears, the axles DO have to be removed. This is not a big deal though, as a 3/4" socket and a breaker bar will break them loose. The axles then slide right out. You will have only a small amount of gear oil that will come out with the axles. Not a big deal.

Once the axles are out, you can access the snap ring and hub nut. The ring pops right out and you should be able to unscrew the nut by hand. If it is a little tight, use the hub socket. (You will need to have the 6 pin hub socket for 3/4 and 1 ton trucks, to re-install the hub and tighten the nut when you are done. So you can use it to remove the nut also, if need be.)

With the nut removed, you can pull the rotor and hub assembly off. It will likely be tight, but a couple smacks with a hammer to the back side of the rotor should break it loose.

Once you have the hub and rotor off you will need to seperate them by removing all the wheel studs. I decided to sacrifice two lugnuts and use them to remove the studs. By screwing a lug onto the stud a little ways, you will be able to hit the lug several times with a good sized hammer and knock each stud out. I ended up using one lug per rotor, as each one took a pretty good beating and I didn't want to bend any studs. Go buy a couple new lugnuts before you start, if you do it this way.

You install the new rotors onto the hubs, by re-installing the studs. If you have a good strong impact wrench, you can probably draw them through with a lugnut. I do not have an impact, so I just pounded them back in with a hammer and an old socket extension. Some people may buy new studs and some may re-use the old ones. I re-used mine. They pounded in just as hard as they came out, so I'm not too concerned about it. The second time I do these though, I will replace them.

Now you will use that 6 pin hub socket to tighten the hub nut. The thread for the axle seal replacement has the torque spec. The calipers and caliper brackets go on as they came off. I replaced the axle flange gaskets and then re-installed the axles. They slide right in, no issues.

The only real trouble I had on the fronts, was getting the rotors off. After the calipers, caliper brackets and the wheel mounting adapter were off (8 nuts no trouble), I could only pull the rotors about a half inch off. There was a thick coating of rust and corrosion on the inside diameter of the rotor, around the flange, so I had to beat both rotors all the way off with a hammer. Once off though, everything went back together without issue.

Bottom line: it's a lot of work. Considering I spent just under $400 in parts, I would think it would cost over $1,000 including parts, to have a shop do it. You'll earn the money you save doing it yourself, though.

I would have liked to have had this info before I did mine, as it would have saved me some running around and extra time. Hope this helps any of you getting ready to do yours for the first time.

Good luck. :)
 

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Where did you get your rotors and 6 pin socket. I am not too far from doing mine and I need to get the socket.
 

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thanks for posting.
just done my brakes and rotors are next soon.
I was under the impression that the dually rear rotor can come off without
removing the hub ?? or am I wrong ..
thanks would appreciate an answer
thanks
gmd
 

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There is a member on here with an 08 that has Kodiak rear brakes. Do ya'll know anything about doing that upgrade?
 

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Also curious roughly how many miles you're finding you need to do your brakes? Thx.
 

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Also curious roughly how many miles you're finding you need to do your brakes? Thx.
I just had the brakes done on my 06 Dulley at 104,000 miles. I only needed the rears:). The fronts were good:)
I do do a lot of heavy towing and I rely on the tow mode in the trans to slow me down.
Cosgr:Dve
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Also curious roughly how many miles you're finding you need to do your brakes? Thx.
I did mine at 135k miles. The rears needed to be replaced for sure, but the fronts could have gone a little longer. I decided to just go ahead and do all four at once.

My truck does nothing but heavy weight, long distance towing. Very little stop and go traffic driving. If that helps. :eek::
 

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I just did a complete brake job on my dually (rotors and pads) last weekend and I thought I would post a little info about it. Before I did them I had asked on here about how much work it would be and I got little or no info. Basically, a bunch of guys with 2500HD's telling me that it was not a big job.

This is why I posted this in the 3500 forum.

Rest assured, it is a big job. Don't let anyone with a 2500HD tell you it's not. I will.

First, the caliper bolts were very tight, but the caliper bracket bolts were MEGA tight. It took a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 30" long pipe to break them loose. Remember to use Blue Loctite on the two bracket to axle bolts .Torque these to approx 145 lb/ft. Very important.

On the rears, the axles DO have to be removed. This is not a big deal though, as a 3/4" socket and a breaker bar will break them loose. The axles then slide right out. You will have only a small amount of gear oil that will come out with the axles. Not a big deal. Even on an '05 Dually, the hubs in the rear DO NOT need removed. UNLESS you can prove to me that the rotor is on the inside of the hub flange.

The only real trouble I had on the fronts, was getting the rotors off. After the calipers, caliper brackets and the wheel mounting adapter were off (8 nuts no trouble), I could only pull the rotors about a half inch off. There was a thick coating of rust and corrosion on the inside diameter of the rotor, around the flange, so I had to beat both rotors all the way off with a hammer. Once off though, everything went back together without issue. That front "offset wheel spacer" is the only difference between a DRW and an SRW.

Bottom line: it's a lot of work. Considering I spent just under $400 in parts, I would think it would cost over $1,000 including parts, to have a shop do it. You'll earn the money you save doing it yourself, though.

I would have liked to have had this info before I did mine, as it would have saved me some running around and extra time. Hope this helps any of you getting ready to do yours for the first time.

Good luck. :)
Following the steps in post #7 in this link will help you to ensure 100k + miles between rear (and front) brake jobs. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146597&highlight=another+soft+brake

And the upper T55 bolt on each side in the rear can be left in place, Trust me.;)
 

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i have to argue the rear hub on my 02 had to come off to replace the rotor and ebrake shoes. I woudl sugges a new inner wheel seal if your gonna tear it apart. Its easier to replace an $8 item than it is to pull all that crap apart when it starts to leak, and theres a good chance it will.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Even on an '05 Dually, the hubs in the rear DO NOT need removed. UNLESS you can prove to me that the rotor is on the inside of the hub flange.

That front "offset wheel spacer" is the only difference between a DRW and an SRW.
The rear rotor/hub was all one piece. What are you talking about?

Some of the differences between the 2500HD brakes and the dually brakes are small, but they ARE different. The point of the thread was to shed a little light on the job. There was little or no info on it when I did the work and any responses I got about doing this was 2500HD specific. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i have to argue the rear hub on my 02 had to come off to replace the rotor and ebrake shoes. I woudl sugges a new inner wheel seal if your gonna tear it apart. Its easier to replace an $8 item than it is to pull all that crap apart when it starts to leak, and theres a good chance it will.
Agreed.

New hub seals and axle flange gaskets are a must. :)
 

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Rotor - Rear - Ultra Premium



Click on image to see enlarged view

Back Front Side Top
Item#: UP 86992

Price: $119.00
tax and shipping not included

Disclaimer: The stated price may vary from the in store price and may change at anytime.


Attributes:
Features & Benefits:NAPA Ultra Premium Rotors Are Precision Machined For Smooth Brake Operation.
Features & Benefits:ONYX Guard Protectant Prevents Rust & Corrosion On The Rotor's Hat & Vanes & Improves The Vehicle's Appearance.
Features & Benefits:QC100 Venting Matches The O.E. Cooling Vanes To Manage Brake Temperature
Prevent Noise & Limit Vibration.
Product Features:Out Of The Box "No Turn Guarantee"
Brake Rotor Type:Disc Brake Rotor Only-dih Parking Brake
Mounting Type:Type K - Rotor Only. Wheel Studs Are Pressed Into The Hub Only. The Rotor Is A Loose Fit On The Hub & Is Retained By Either Machine Screws Or The Wheel Nuts. See Diagram For More Information.
# of Bolt Holes:8
Bolt Circle Diameter:6.5"
Diameter:12.8"
Height:5.2"
Thickness When New:1.185"
Maximum Lateral Runout:.002"
Discard Thickness:1.122"
Vented / Solid:Vented
Center Hole Diameter:4.838"
 

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whats that mccall? I know its not the rear rotor on an 02 duramax 3500 dooley. I will tell you without a doubt you have to remove the hub to get the rotor off on a drw 2002. Not that i want to start an arguement with you, I do not want to do that, but I do believe you have some bad information, Ive been a member here for a long time. and i want to make sure the information on here is good information


Brake Rotor Replacement - Rear Dual Wheels
Removal Procedure
Release the park brake.
Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
Compress the caliper pistons.
Install a large C-clamp over the top of the caliper housing and against the back of the outboard pad.
Slowly tighten the C-clamp until the pistons are pushed fully into the caliper bores.
Remove the C-clamp from the caliper.
Loosen the rear brake caliper mounting bolts. Do not remove.
Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (2).
Remove the brake caliper bracket (1) and brake caliper as an assembly.
Notice
Support the brake caliper with heavy mechanic's wire, or equivalent, whenever it is separated from it's mount and the hydraulic flexible brake hose is still connected. Failure to support the caliper in this manner will cause the flexible brake hose to bear the weight of the caliper, which may cause damage to the brake hose and in turn may cause a brake fluid leak.
Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts from the brake caliper mounting bracket and support the brake caliper with heavy mechanic's wire or equivalent.
Remove the axle flange bolts.
Lightly tap the axle shaft with a soft-faced hammer in order to loosen the shaft.
Grip the rib on the axle shaft flange with a locking pliers. Twist the axle shaft flange in order to start the axle shaft removal.
Remove the axle shaft from the tube.
Remove the gasket.
Clean the axle shaft flange and the outside face of the hub assembly
Remove the axle nut retaining ring.
Remove the key.
Remove the adjusting nut using the J 2222-C .
Remove the hub from the axle housing.
Mark the relationship of the hub to the rotor.
Place the hub and rotor assembly on a hydraulic press.
Press the wheel studs out of the hub and rotor assembly.


Thats direct from GM, and I can guaranty there is no way to remove that rotor short of a torch unless you do what is says.


 
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I stand corrected, and you have my Humblest apology. :eek::
 

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No apology needed, you asked for someone to prove that the rotor is on the inside on the hub flange. Speaking from the point of view of someone who had to run to the parts house to pick up inner seals at 11:55 on a Saturday, I know i had to remove the hub. I have 3 DRW Duramaxes but I have never done a 2500 or a 3500 SRW, so I cannot say one way or another on them.
 

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I just did a complete brake job on my dually (rotors and pads) last weekend and I thought I would post a little info about it. Before I did them I had asked on here about how much work it would be and I got little or no info. Basically, a bunch of guys with 2500HD's telling me that it was not a big job.

This is why I posted this in the 3500 forum.

Rest assured, it is a big job. Don't let anyone with a 2500HD tell you it's not.

First, the caliper bolts were very tight, but the caliper bracket bolts were MEGA tight. It took a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 30" long pipe to break them loose.

On the rears, the axles DO have to be removed. This is not a big deal though, as a 3/4" socket and a breaker bar will break them loose. The axles then slide right out. You will have only a small amount of gear oil that will come out with the axles. Not a big deal.

Once the axles are out, you can access the snap ring and hub nut. The ring pops right out and you should be able to unscrew the nut by hand. If it is a little tight, use the hub socket. (You will need to have the 6 pin hub socket for 3/4 and 1 ton trucks, to re-install the hub and tighten the nut when you are done. So you can use it to remove the nut also, if need be.)

With the nut removed, you can pull the rotor and hub assembly off. It will likely be tight, but a couple smacks with a hammer to the back side of the rotor should break it loose.

Once you have the hub and rotor off you will need to seperate them by removing all the wheel studs. I decided to sacrifice two lugnuts and use them to remove the studs. By screwing a lug onto the stud a little ways, you will be able to hit the lug several times with a good sized hammer and knock each stud out. I ended up using one lug per rotor, as each one took a pretty good beating and I didn't want to bend any studs. Go buy a couple new lugnuts before you start, if you do it this way. I just used a punch on the wheel studs and they came right out. At the end of each stud is an indentation that the punch will fit right into. I put my punch in a set of vise-grips as I did not trust my hammer skills. :)

You install the new rotors onto the hubs, by re-installing the studs. If you have a good strong impact wrench, you can probably draw them through with a lugnut. I do not have an impact, so I just pounded them back in with a hammer and an old socket extension. Some people may buy new studs and some may re-use the old ones. I re-used mine. They pounded in just as hard as they came out, so I'm not too concerned about it. The second time I do these though, I will replace them.

Now you will use that 6 pin hub socket to tighten the hub nut. The thread for the axle seal replacement has the torque spec. The calipers and caliper brackets go on as they came off. I replaced the axle flange gaskets and then re-installed the axles. They slide right in, no issues.

The only real trouble I had on the fronts, was getting the rotors off. After the calipers, caliper brackets and the wheel mounting adapter were off (8 nuts no trouble), I could only pull the rotors about a half inch off. There was a thick coating of rust and corrosion on the inside diameter of the rotor, around the flange, so I had to beat both rotors all the way off with a hammer. Once off though, everything went back together without issue.

Bottom line: it's a lot of work. Considering I spent just under $400 in parts, I would think it would cost over $1,000 including parts, to have a shop do it. You'll earn the money you save doing it yourself, though.

I would have liked to have had this info before I did mine, as it would have saved me some running around and extra time. Hope this helps any of you getting ready to do yours for the first time.

Good luck. :)


Good article!!:RockOn:
 

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Front and rears at 104,000. Could have went awhile, but headed to Alaska at the end of April. Tow a 35' 5th Wheel trailer most of the time!

If I had to choose between my wife or my truck, I sure would miss her.

Dave and Cathy, out spending the kids inheritance.
 
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