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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looks like I am pulling an engine real soon. Is in a 4x4 Burb. Any tips or tricks or special tools? How bad are the bell housing bolts to get to and whats the best tool(s) to use? Any other tricky hardware to access?

Whats the best way to hold the trans up while the engine is out? I have one of those support bars that sits up top but I'm not sure there is room for that still? Usually when I have used it was to hold the engine while the trans was out.

Last time I pulled engines they were in square bodies and I don't remember the top bell bolts being easy but not impossible either. I do have to remember that was at least 20 years go so I was a lot younger then and could spend hours in odd positions.
 

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84 K30 CUCV 6.2, 98 Suburban 6.5, 99 Suburban 6.5, 06 Ram 5.9
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They really aren't difficult to pull. Tranny bolts I usually use a 1/2 ratchet. About 20-24 inches of extensions and an elbow. Never had an issue.

If you have a bar to support it, I would use that. I have used ratchet straps as well and have had no issues with them either. (Just wouldn't lay under it with the straps holding it)

And amen my friend!! 20 years ago I would thread my arms and contort my body in ways that right now makes me ache thinking about it!!

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84 K30 CUCV 6.2, 98 Suburban 6.5, 99 Suburban 6.5, 06 Ram 5.9
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2wd I would also recommend pulling them together. 4x4 I have always found it easier to pull just the engine. The transfer case is offset and adds weight at the opposite end of where your lifting the engine. Definitely can be done, personally have always found it much easier to pull just the engine with a 4x4.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't have anywhere near enough lifting capacity or height to consider pulling them together.
 

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Jackstand, block of wood to distribute the load on the trans pan. Transmissions are not that heavy and should be partially supported by the transmission mount.
 
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There are always a couple of the bellhousing bolts and stuff bolted to the studs that end up coming off with a box end wrench and all by feel.
I've gone to pulling enhgine trans and transfer case out in one piece. I figured it was about 1700lbs. my hoist can lift that much ,that high.
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I pulled the hood and core support, unbolted the driveshaft, trans with transfer case, and removed the front wheels to lower the front as low as possible.
 

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1984 k10 Burb 4" lift and Hummer 6.5 with a HX35 turbo. 4l80e. Also 2008 Silverado LMM
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I would drop the tail of the transmission/t case 1st so you can get to those top bellhousing bolts with a couple of long extensions (I use about 24" of extensions). Then bolt trans crossmember back up and finish the removal of the engine. When done, those top 2 bolts are the last to go back in (don't forget). Removing hood is a must, and the core support/grill is a good idea too. Some people remove the whole front clip instead.
 

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Tip of the Month! Don't know if your truck is set up this way so check... My 2000 hood hinge is this way, I just found out. You can remove the one bolt out on both sides and lift the hood straight up. Now put the bolt back in the other hole and the hood will stay fixed in that position. You don't have to remove the hood.
 

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I used about 3 ft of extensions,and a universal, to get to the top bellhousing bolts, after removing the trans cross member to lower it. Too much stuff in the way. Installing the engine I accessed the top bolts from above, much easier, especially with the manifold and fuel filter removed. Make an overhead creeper to fit on your engine crane, if you have one.
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You can lower things enough to do some good with the torsion bar crossmember still in place? Just eyeballing it looked like that would get in the way fairly quickly.
 

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I didn't remove it, you can get to the top bolts from bellow by just removing the trans mission cross member, but I found that by jacking the trans up until it touches the body, the top bolts are easy to access from above using a ring spanner. Someone said that workshops remove the transfer case, for lowering further, but much less work to work from the top. Now I remember, the transmission bellhousing has to be against the body, for the engine to clear the mounts.
 
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