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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am so very tired of this truck falling off boost so I have grabbed up a boost gauge and ready to add the manual spring. I would like to see if anyone has a caliper and can measure the wire diameter of a spring that works correctly? I have not looked yet so will this be a compression or extension spring? What is the unloaded length and what might the operation range be?


Also, I would like to ask about how much boost these trucks like with only an opened exhaust? I want to say it was around 11psi constant but can surge to 12-13 without issues? Is that a little high?
 

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I run 15 lbs boost on hard pulls without troubles, but thats with listed mods.

And I take it you are making a home made turbo master, a compression or extension spring would depend on your design, I would go for a compression type as they are easier to adjust, wire diameter of a spring is'nt the big concern, just make sure you can set the lbs where you want it, ie, it will hold untill you hit your boost limit then release.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I run 15 lbs boost on hard pulls without troubles, but thats with listed mods.

And I take it you are making a home made turbo master, a compression or extension spring would depend on your design, I would go for a compression type as they are easier to adjust, wire diameter of a spring is'nt the big concern, just make sure you can set the lbs where you want it, ie, it will hold untill you hit your boost limit then release.

The reason I am asking for the wire diameter is that there is a direct relation between compression force and wire size. bigger wire, more force to compress it. Unless of course someone knows what the compression rate is on a good spring for this app??? Then we can just back calculate to determine the wire size required. How much range does it need? .5" travel, 2in travel? We have plenty of clutch springs around here so I would like to use those if possible. I would like to start with a stiffer spring and work down the OD (wire size reduction) to reduce the stiffness. I realize that the pretension will help also but I am sure the right wire size will make it work that much better.


Looking at a couple pics, I realize that some guys have made their own actuator arm. That of course would totally change the spring force needed. My bad. I plan to use the OE actuator arm at this time.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, I got things installed. I used as many OE components as possible to simplify the install. I simply welded an extension on the end of my factory WG rod mad from a 1/4x20 bolt. I used the OE bracket and gutted the vacuum can. Very simple install and it seems pretty dialed in with the first adjustment. WOT on flat road with no load give me about 10psi for about 2 sec and then falls back to about 8psi and holds there. I am still getting a little black smoke under hard accel but seems more like a typical diesel. I would not say it is "fast" y any means but it seems to come up to speed easier now.

I am not sure if the boost should come up and hold or if falling off 2 psi is pretty normal. Between the boost gauge and the WG goodies, I think I have about 20 bucks in the job. Just wish I could boost this thing more but I am not running an EGT so I think I will have to let it be for now. I have to keep reminding myself this is my "work" truck.
 

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I'm guessing your vac system is still fully functional? Because if you still have the EGR on the truck and it is not blocked off - and your vac pump isn't working of you take it off, your EGR will remain open and could cause a poor running condition.

Just checking ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm guessing your vac system is still fully functional? Because if you still have the EGR on the truck and it is not blocked off - and your vac pump isn't working of you take it off, your EGR will remain open and could cause a poor running condition.

Just checking ;)

Yeah, the pump is still on. One thing at a time I guess. I can certainly see how that damn EGR is restricting air flow big time. The intake is also extremely nasty with black sludge I am wondering if some of my oil burning is coming from the leakage at the turbo. Never the less, this pig will go for broke and then be sold for parts. Damn truck just will not quit though.

I've got a nice pinion seal leak that I need to get on asap or I will be locking that thing up tight. Leaves several drops every where it goes. I plan to just pull the U joint knuckle and pop that bastard in there and top it off again.
 
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