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Discussion Starter #161
Roller coaster ride.

Went on a big vacation to California and burned a bigger hole in my credit card. Much needed break but fell way behind on about everything. Burnt out from weeks of 1am nights. Car is broken with a phantom draw and a bad battery. GFs car broke too.

I had a fella that wanted my white parts truck. It went from parts and cash trade to parts trade, then he can't do it because he's getting tickets at his house for unlicensed vehicles. So I made a thread about possibly trying to use used injectors and updated my 6.2 Big Valve engine project thinking about big valve heads he had to trade...and then now nothing.

I'm working on ripping the transmission and front diff out of the white truck.

Trucks been racking up issues left and right and sounds horrible. Belt squeal pretty much never goes away, starts awful and needs an oil change.Time to pull it back in the shop!!!!
 

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Roller coaster ride.

Went on a big vacation to California and burned a bigger hole in my credit card. Much needed break but fell way behind on about everything. Burnt out from weeks of 1am nights. Car is broken with a phantom draw and a bad battery. GFs car broke too.

I had a fella that wanted my white parts truck. It went from parts and cash trade to parts trade, then he can't do it because he's getting tickets at his house for unlicensed vehicles. So I made a thread about possibly trying to use used injectors and updated my 6.2 Big Valve engine project thinking about big valve heads he had to trade...and then now nothing.

I'm working on ripping the transmission and front diff out of the white truck.

Trucks been racking up issues left and right and sounds horrible. Belt squeal pretty much never goes away, starts awful and needs an oil change.Time to pull it back in the shop!!!!
Sorry to hear that.

If and when you're in the market for used, do seriously consider a one way ticket to Vegas. Can often be had for cheap with enough lead time.

I was under the truck the other day checking things over as my OCD dictates. I snapped this pic for ya to show you why the desert is the place to grab used vehicles. This is looking at the underside of the bed, over the original muffler of an exactly 14 year old truck never garaged, but it's entire life in the west except for a few trips cross country to MI in the fall before the snow :thumb:
 

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Absolutely picture perfect. Here in the rust belt of New England, people would double their purchase price, for something that clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #164
I feel completely attacked by that photo. I'd report it but a mod liked it.

Last night was not a good night for the 6.5.

Confirmed and worsened: a hard knocking sound coming from the engine you can feel in the floor boards at around 1500rpm when the temp is below 180-190. Going to explore it in another thread I guess.
 

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How's your oil pressure? Got a gauge, or an idiot light?
 

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Discussion Starter #166
Factory gauge, gauge is rock solid where it usually is. After reading threads it seems like injector knock is a good possibility. From all these years of "bad" injectors, this would be the first sign beyond a smoky/rough cold start anything is wrong.

$400 for new injectors on a motor with a damaged piston would not be smart, I guess thats my concern at this point, any sort of potential engine damage.

Had some problems with my boiler system in my house, socked me for $600 yesterday. Car battery was $150 the day before, and the license plates are also expired on the truck too. So looks like the truck will be sitting for a bit.
 

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I would crack open each injector line, one at a time and see if the noise changes.
 

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Discussion Starter #169
Had to move the diesel today. I could not get it to replicate the noise at idle or at throttle high and low an in between. Didn't get to load test on the road

Trying to generate some income from the sale of parts from the white truck. Lots of leads. So far no sales. Feels like being back at the dealership. All work. No sales. Stress eat.

Removing a cab without just wrecking balling every is not easy. Pretty much ready for anything to go through. Swivel impact sockets make me a fat lazy little piggy.
 

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So I’m pretty sure my left brake valve is not routing air correctly and the pedal doesn’t return to same height as right one.

Right side works, left rear wheel will turn freely in gear with right brake applied, so the left side will release but will not when in drive, neither pedal applied.

What I can tell from the service manual I’ll have to remove the entire assembly...but my left knee flared up bad last week and can’t move around enough yet to be able to get to it.

The good news is from underneath the rear drums barely have a lip, the shoes look nearly new, clean dry...no grease, oil otherwise.

These 20,000 lb Tonka Toys are fun, I’ll miss mine!
 

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Discussion Starter #171
Are they air applied or air released brakes? Sometimes a quick blast of wd40 inside or replacing an O-ring is all it needs inside a valve, or an air leak fixed somewhere on a line, but much of the stuff I dealt with was throwaway aluminum bodied crap that had to be replaced every couple years that of course brought a whole dump truck to its knees and had to be overnighted to get the truck on the road.

If you can get the valve off and apart, most hydraulic shops will be best equipped to match up the seals for you. Are you selling your Tonka toy?
 

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Are they air applied or air released brakes? Sometimes a quick blast of wd40 inside or replacing an O-ring is all it needs inside a valve, or an air leak fixed somewhere on a line, but much of the stuff I dealt with was throwaway aluminum bodied crap that had to be replaced every couple years that of course brought a whole dump truck to its knees and had to be overnighted to get the truck on the road.

If you can get the valve off and apart, most hydraulic shops will be best equipped to match up the seals for you. Are you selling your Tonka toy?
No air or low air supply kicks in the safety brake. So stepping on the pedal should gradually release air thus applying the brake - if I understand the operation correctly.

Safety brakes, clutch cut-out, right side brakes all seem to be operating as the manual suggests they should.

I believe the "rubber spring" has deteriorated or the upper chamber oR the brake valve seals are bad - as it's the chamber that routes are during pedal operation.

Yep - actually - sadly - already sold the backhoe to a buddy of mine but @20000lbs it's got to be hauled by a semi with a lowboy trailer and I'm just not comfortable trying to load it on the lowboy with brakes the way they are - it's just not safe, to easy to get someone killed.

I just got a parts manual, and a service manual for the old girl on ebay for 70.00 a couple weeks ago (should have bought them years ago) and not for my knee would have had the brake valve out by now.

My buddy is cool, he lives like 70 miles away and is buying mine because its got a thumb on it, but he's got a 580 already so is good to let it stay here until we fix the brakes.

Plus when it starts freezing the alcohol spray system isn't working so can't safely move it because any moisture in the air lines could freeze up in bad places!

How much does that loader of yours weigh?
 

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Discussion Starter #173
Yikes. Sounds like a poor design. Loader weighs somewhere around 10k lbs. Don't remember. Need a pretty serious trailer to move it, we never have. It has a very good road gear on it but the brakes and tie rod end links are not so good (death wobble at 40 on tractor tires will make you religious), so we only move it between farms when absolutely needed. Its a family heirloom. Could be quickly replaced by a skid steer but we never seem to be able to afford a skid steer.

Bum rush on trying to sell parts on the truck and do sidework to get the truck on the road daily again with new injectors! I guess I could just get another credit card....
 

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Discussion Starter #174 (Edited)
Interesting couple of weeks. Been struggling to get that money but instead got a busload of 6.5 diesel.

The white truck minus cab and rear axle) was traded for a redblock 6.2 (semi complete) and a very complete 1997 F-code 6.5 with "water in the cdr" complete right from the PCM to oil cooler to the torque converter. Has a laser straight center section on a GM8. Hauled 2 hours and unloaded the truck frame with a cherry picker and lots of butt pucker.

A friend found me a 1992 3500HD 6.5 turbo rollback for very reasonable. It ran very well before the trans gave out. Has a massive Dana S series axle and lots of little salable doo dads. Just wish I hadn't knocked the rear window out with the loader bucket.
 

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Interesting couple of weeks. Been struggling to get that money but instead got a busload of 6.5 diesel.

The white truck minus cab and rear axle) was traded for a redblock 6.2 (semi complete) and a very complete 1997 F-code 6.5 with "water in the cdr" complete right from the PCM to oil cooler to the torque converter. Has a laser straight center section on a GM8. Hauled 2 hours and unloaded the truck frame with a cherry picker and lots of butt pucker.

A friend found me a 1992 3500HD 6.5 turbo rollback for very reasonable. It ran very well before the trans gave out. Has a massive Dana S series axle and lots of little salable doo dads. Just wish I hadn't knocked the rear window out with the loader bucket.
Nice score finding a redblock!
:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #176 (Edited)
So whence you acquire, you must then utilize... Thanks OKDually. This one has red paint on it even! No plans for it yet.

I was amazed how well the 1500 hauled that giant 3500 truck. The bare frame and engine actually pulled way harder. The truck racked up some serious heavy duty pulling miles (around 400) and proved itself after the work I did this summer with the 2500 springs. I drove it to work shortly after and the heater hose disconnect cracked and leaked a bunch of coolant but made it home, then broke off as soon as I messed with it. Had to extract it by cutting the fitting with a scroll saw blade and tapping out the the pieces with a nail punch. Had well over 5 hours farting with it by the time I put coolant back in.

The truck will barely start now. Took 4 extended cranks at 20 ambient to get it to fire, and it was real ugly. Kicking myself for putting the coolant in and not installing the lower radiator hose block heater first. Looks like that will be a project for this weekend.

I'll be playing with injectors and trying to find 8 good ones out of 40 or so used injectors. Paleyjim and I are pooling resources to get an injector pop tester. The glow plugs are about 4 years and 20k miles old too.

The C3500HD is a different animal. I have needed a heavier truck, specifically a dump truck for a long, long time. The scenarios for bringing it into my fleet are very tempting. I keep running the scenarios over and over in my head.
 

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So whence you acquire, you must then utilize... Thanks OKDually. This one has red paint on it even! No plans for it yet.

I was amazed how well the 1500 hauled that giant 3500 truck. The bare frame and engine actually pulled way harder. The truck racked up some serious heavy duty pulling miles (around 400) and proved itself after the work I did this summer with the 2500 springs. I drove it to work shortly after and the heater hose disconnect cracked and leaked a bunch of coolant but made it home, then broke off as soon as I messed with it. Had to extract it by cutting the fitting with a scroll saw blade and tapping out the the pieces with a nail punch. Had well over 5 hours farting with it by the time I put coolant back in.

The truck will barely start now. Took 4 extended cranks at 20 ambient to get it to fire, and it was real ugly. Kicking myself for putting the coolant in and not installing the lower radiator hose block heater first. Looks like that will be a project for this weekend.

I'll be playing with injectors and trying to find 8 good ones out of 40 or so used injectors. Paleyjim and I are pooling resources to get an injector pop tester. The glow plugs are about 4 years and 20k miles old too.

The C3500HD is a different animal. I have needed a heavier truck, specifically a dump truck for a long, long time. The scenarios for bringing it into my fleet are very tempting. I keep running the scenarios over and over in my head.
Build a pop tester out of a bottle jack to save some time and money
:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #178
It won't save time, it will take time to build one.

Just need to find the least Chinese Chinesium to get, I guess. So far, people seem to find them useful when they buy them, IE, haven't heard a good reason to not go that route.
 

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Discussion Starter #180
Nah... I just hosed down the open block with it. That's where it got set down.

Current state of affairs:

Paleyjim lent me his battery load tester. My Z71 batteries failed a load test, both of them.

I put them in the Dragon and tried to start it to verify the engine was good. I've named the wrecker "the Dragon" because its draggin' on the ground (no tires), its large, strong, scaly (rust haha). It has 8 bad glow plugs in it, it bumps with 1 glow plug from my truck, the one I pulled out was a 10G so hopefully they've been gone through at least once. Time to dig up some used ones, too bad I threw away most of them probably. Forgot to check if it had a block heater.

Thinking very hard about going to mechanical injection or building a truck with mechanical injection. Researching the performance of the trans controller that's in the Dragon to see if its something I want in my Z71, how much performance or driveability I'll lose going to that setup.

The Z71 needs batteries, injectors, an air filter, CDR changed, oil change and chassis lube, the fuel tank replaced, the block heater replaced. I think I either have a bad oil pan gasket or a leaking crank seal that's making a huge mess as well. I'm tempted to pull the whole front clip to redo these things, possibly place the second GM8 turbocharger at this time as well.

Just have to see how the money and time shakes down as to what I can really manage to do.
 
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