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Discussion Starter · #221 ·
4x Crossover doughnut gaskets from Rock Auto $44
2x stainless 4" couplers and 2x 4" Silicone elbows from Silicone intakes $80

All the parts are here except the following hardware store type misfits:

Bolts from the manifold to the turbo. Hose from the manifold to the wastegate, a hose barb into the intake manifold.

Also need 1.5" stainless tubing to make the transition from the crossover to the wastegate and the screamer pipe. THINKING about getting a stainless one now to avoid metallurgic issues trying to weld stainless to mild alumized exhaust pipe, but haven't decided.
 

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Discussion Starter · #222 ·
The machine lives with a new turbo, and it sounds very aggressive and insane with the screamer pipe. Several issues that need to be addressed yet. I can't say that it woke it up besides with noise.

The wastegate and screamer ended up hanging extremely low and is sticking way below the frame. Glad I got a second set of doughnuts, it will need to be reworked a bit.

The K47 box wouldn't fit with my current battery terminal setup pushing on the 4" silicone tubes. Need to shop terminals to get a setup that allows more clearance for the intake pipe. So I just have a bare filter gulping IAT's. Takes much longer to cool down EGT's, if at all below 300 degrees, took like 10 min of idling instead of 2 minutes. I like to turn it off at 200-250.

The wastegate had two ports on the boost side, and one needed to be plugged and the instructions had to be read line for line to find it. I found it trying to open the gate with a compressor. Previous to solving it, I ran it a bit with the wastegate not hooked up right and it would easily boost 25 plus (experimentally poking it, of course) then the PCM would do an aggressive fuel cut and made it slow as paste unless you were using half throttle.

When standing on it and the screamer pipe opened up at 10 psi it almost elicits a woo-hoo. I'd like to run about 18psi without a cut hopefully. Lots of haze at full boost that I'd like to clean up and power on the table. I might have smiled once or twice when I got the wastegate working.

I'm assuming with some dialing in it will sound significantly better and with more boost on the turbo to help make some noise during wastegate open it will sound less like a hillbilly cutout and more nasty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #223 · (Edited)
Battery terminal issue can be seen below. With that out of the way there should be clearance for the K47 airbox.

Quadstar S60 and upper intake. Had to cut the tab off the CDR tube and punched hole in the silicone with a Forstner bit and pushed the stock plastic piece into it. The intake all and all seals better than stock on all fronts. Really happy with it.

The turbo is much easier to service than the stock one. Gobs of access to get to bolts, and the adapter makes it somehow easier to bolt up the downpipe. I was just floored how easily it bolted in. No wastegate has unseen advantages. Worth the upgrade.

643999

Hangs really low. But, it isn't bad to service there till we get it dialed in. I was able to get the 10psi spring back in pulling it down from 15 trying to figure out my boost problem but likely won't be able to get more springs in under the truck. Will have to use clamps. Quadstar said stock pcms only allow 14.7 psi so if I go to my targeted 18 I may need a tune that ignore the MAP sensor, which is only capable of reading that high. Possible it will still sketch out even with a boost fooler as the sensor will be out of range.
644000
 

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Discussion Starter · #224 ·
The hustle is paying off. Truck has got more $ thrown at it than it has over the last 3 or 4 years. Making big strides in performance and maintenance.

Changed the oil finally since winter time. The leaking is way, way down after replacing the turbo drain. Valve covers are leaking a bit and something near the front of the engine may be leaking, but I'm not needing to lay down cardboard anymore, I don't think when I park on s clients asphalt drive.

New shoes Friday. Went with 265/75/16 Duratracs. Huge difference in the ride. I think over 50% of my ongoing ride issue could be attributed to those Cooper AT3s. I think the older set might have had as much as 60-80K miles on them. Will end up moving to 35's sooner or later, but these look great and I'm pretty happy with the performance.

Tire shop said the right upper ball joint, pitman arm, and idler arm are loose. Will replace those and hit it with an alignment soon..
 

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Discussion Starter · #225 ·
Last month was tires, this month front end....

The front end has not been touched on my truck possibly for 150k besides what I did to it. If it had been touched, most of what was there except 4 of the tie rod ends was bad, thanks to a trip to a hoist at my little brother's job and doing some jiggling. NEARLY 1K in parts on the way. Koni Heavy Track shocks, Mevotech premium steering parts, all except ball joints on the drivers side and a-arm bushings. new rear drums because the rear is warped and the rear bounces really bad when they get hot. Turning them last year didn't seem to help.

Truck makes a ton of noise going over bumps, so after making a parts list we investigated that further.

Found a trans mount bolt into the transfer case was gone. Replaced it.

Found a loose bolt or two in the front bumper. Tightened it

Ran out of time to fix anything... Found a loose bed bolt.

Found the exhaust touching the frame and the rear leaf

The grille has no bottom screws, every one of the clips that holds it to the bottom track is broken on the grille or the bottom track.

Its possible that the front shock mount has a standard bolt in the drivers side, remember breaking one and its banged/carried on ever since.

My little brother and I are hoping to knock it out fixing the front end in one night on the hoist with two people, wish us luck.
 

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Photos!!! If you can I mean...

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #227 ·
Front end update, if I get a chance a couple photos.

The front end took two people 10 hours.

Day 1

We had the following issues: the pitman arm nut was extremely tight. had an enormous wrench and another one as a "helper" and swinging with all might to remove it. Came off hard all the way with liberal application of juice etc. Could have gotten it with an impact if the stabilizer bar was removed. I injured my elbow cranking on this. I would have had to replace all the stabilizer bar mounts as the bolts were siezed from when I replaced them in 2013.

Pickle fork had to work very hard to get pitman arm off. At least an hour and multiple attempts. To get pitman arm off of steering box, had to drop drivers side stabilizer bar mount and pry it out of the way. Luckily an enourmous Mac air hammer and 150 psi shop air at our disposal, but little brother hurt his shoulder trying to remove.

The Mevotech tie rod ends came with jam nuts for the adjusting collar. The nuts would not go on the reverse thread tie rods. They say the coating is too thick on them. Wasted lots of time trying to get them on. Have to use a die to remove the coating to use the nuts (per facebook group answer). The standard thread side went on fine. Left these jam nuts off the reverse thread side. Chinese trash, all of it. IMO I would not buy any Mevotech stuff again. More on that later.

We both went home mad tired, with hurted wings, having to beg forgiveness from shop owner.

Day 2

Took off early from work to finish up truck higher than **** on painkillers.

Bothered other mechanic relentlessly for him to eat the chocolate muffin on his toolbox till he went home.

Supposedly, because the truck sat on the hoist through a working day of an active shop (luckily not in the way), it got marvelled at by the Mac guy, the Snap On guy, and a couple other reps that stopped by. The hater pipe got chuckles as well as the headlights got interest. Most people do not believe 6.5TD came in a 1500.

Ball joints went fine, standard difficulty. Was able to use the air hammer to knock out the lower ball joint (the ball joint press kit they had wasn't set up to press to remove) and boy did that feel cool. Assembly went fine, but slow.

The truck drove crappy home without the alignment. Parked it.

Day 3
Took the truck in for an alignment. Handling borderline dangerous.

Day 4
Alignment shop couldn't finish the alignment due to frozen camber bolts. Its close enough where he said I "might not" have to worry about it unless it pulls to one side too much. The steering is extremely stiff and sticky and you have to manually center it. It might need further work if it pullls to one side (camber bolts) or says stiff (faulty front end parts).

The brakes are still funky even with new drums in the back.

No joy here, but the passenger wheel isn't going to fall off, I guess. We will see how it "breaks" in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #228 · (Edited)
~ 150 miles driven. Still not driving the best, really hard to keep it on the road. Almost broke my hand when a screw snapped I was leaning on... Makes it hard to drive with how I have to fight it

Vac pump pulley sheared off for no reason 30 mins from home last week. Was able to use the 95" belt and pull the pump to delete in a friend's driveway.

Had to top off the coolant for the first time since fixing the coolant blow up last year. Worried about head gasket now.

I'm getting worn down for sure.
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Discussion Starter · #229 ·
Successfully ran 7 hours straight on a magazine delivery route. Was getting molested by an early 2000's F150 in traffic, and I shut him down pretty badly. You could almost hear his manifolds ticking in the distance over my wastegate standing open. Still have it set to 10lbs only. Otherwise I was driving for economy. I probably didn't do much better than 15/16 mpg though.

Successfully hauled this year's grape harvest in with the biggest single load ever (2400 lbs). The bins were different from a different customer and they held more than the usual 900lbs each.

Been driving it everyday to do a massive painting/staining job after work.

The front end is loosening up but still no pleasure cruise to drive on these roads around here, for sure. On the straight and flat its fine. Have not decided if I want to address the frozen camber bolts yet. Still have a slight bounce when braking that feels like its coming from the passenger front tire now. Still no word on my Koni heavy track shocks from Summit. Probably wouldn't hurt to throw pads, rotors and calipers at it.

Trying to decide if I pick up another 6.5 project truck (97 K3500 CCLB with an aluminum flatbed with a blown engine)

Or pile more money into my 1996. I have a significant amount of cash saved up that "needs" to be used, hopefully something for my mental health. Weird problem, I know.

Any input?
Automotive parking light Car Wheel Land vehicle Tire
 

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Successfully ran 7 hours straight on a magazine delivery route. Was getting molested by an early 2000's F150 in traffic, and I shut him down pretty badly. You could almost hear his manifolds ticking in the distance over my wastegate standing open. Still have it set to 10lbs only. Otherwise I was driving for economy. I probably didn't do much better than 15/16 mpg though.

Successfully hauled this year's grape harvest in with the biggest single load ever (2400 lbs). The bins were different from a different customer and they held more than the usual 900lbs each.

Been driving it everyday to do a massive painting/staining job after work.

The front end is loosening up but still no pleasure cruise to drive on these roads around here, for sure. On the straight and flat its fine. Have not decided if I want to address the frozen camber bolts yet. Still have a slight bounce when braking that feels like its coming from the passenger front tire now. Still no word on my Koni heavy track shocks from Summit. Probably wouldn't hurt to throw pads, rotors and calipers at it.

Trying to decide if I pick up another 6.5 project truck (97 K3500 CCLB with an aluminum flatbed with a blown engine)

Or pile more money into my 1996. I have a significant amount of cash saved up that "needs" to be used, hopefully something for my mental health. Weird problem, I know.

Any input? View attachment 646130
I would concentrate on the 96' and get it completely done. ( Brakes, rotors, front end, etc )
(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #231 ·
That's sound advice, OKdually. Lots of other small things to do for sure... I could use a bigger truck for my business. My thoughts on the K3500 anyways.

I did contact Quadstar to update my tune to get full boost without a derate and fix a shifting issue and a pile more fuel.

I hadn't cleaned the truck out for months and months and finally decided to try, took an hour just to get the tangled tool bags, load straps, and extension cords extracted from the backseat.... Still not done.

Grabbing my long overdue to be updated sig to toss in here because it has info I didn't document anywhere else.

1996 GMC K1500xcab 6.5 3.73 4L80E rear bags Bought at 99k 12/13 now 138k 9/17
Repairs:
BWD OPS 1/14 Heath PMD kit 3/14 Airtex boost solenoid 6/14 Lube Specialist cooler lines and cooler, rad support mounts, Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks, rear brakes 7/14 Interstate Batts, Cooper AT3 tires, Hummer H3 rims, stepper motor 4x4, coolant flush 11/14 Stabilizer bar links, soot trap gasket 9/15 Dorman tank, sending unit/sock delete, filler neck, filler neck, hose, Leroy's Tank Barbs, SAE30R9 lines, WIX filter head and prefilter with brackets by paleyjim, intake manifold gaskets 3/16 Used transmission, dipstick tube, fluid flush, drain plug pan by paleyjim, power steering fluid flush, transfer case seals and fluid 9/16 Duraterms 11/16 Ball Joints and wheel bearing drivers side. Powerstop pads, lubed sliders 4/17 AD244, Leroy's Flight Systems PMD 9/17
Performance:
Ashland Muffler 2.5 X-over 12/13 FTB FFM by paleyjim, ported upper egr delete S-code, lower F-code, ported IP fitting, FASS DRP-02 lift pump 3/16 Transgo Shift Kit by paleyjim, Energy Susp. engine+trans mounts 9/16 Ported GM8, Diamond Eye, Quadstar tune 11/16 K47 Box, Glowshift 3-1 1/17 Leroy's Billet Crank pulley, Fluidampr. 9/17
 

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I need to get working on a high output injection pump for you. Now that you have a bigger turbo on there, we need to blow that thing up.
Or maybe I should build myself a bigger pump and give you my current one.
 

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If it were me, I'd snag the 3500 and get it going ASAP. A half ton with a 6.5 never made sense to me, but that's just my personal take on it. More room, more load capacity, and better setup for work.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #234 ·
Question: - 2wd vs 4wd dually with upfit

I ended up getting a 2wd dump truck to fill the void on a work truck. Not perfect, still ganky, but already immensely useful, the tailgate is currently an iron taco and will need to be repaired. I've been trying to learn to weld by plinking on an old skid-steer bucket to repair the gate. The skid steer is used to plow snow at my place. I've been kind of focusing on that, as when I need it I need it!!!

The K1500 has a WMI system, heavy duty towing Powerstop brake kit (rotors, calipers pads), Quadstar tune without boost limiting, 20lb boost spring for the gate, and 9011 bulbs for the projectors waiting to go in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #235 ·
THE KONIS are here finally. So I have all new high performance front brakes, all new high performance shocks, new headlight bulbs, WMI to install. I'm also in contact with a member here for a prototype air box- superior to the K47 that will be available after testing. Right now just running a bare filter off of the 4" 90's. Going to sprinkle on new brake lines and fix the camber bolts and bushings I missed with the front end job.

Got the new Quadstar tune and the 20psi spring installed. I don't get that fun instant bark from the opening wastegate, but I DO still get plenty of wastegate sounds when I ask enough.

A spooled up super 60 turbo sounds pretty nasty. Get snapping necks when passing people, more than just a wide open hole in the crossover does at 10psi. A good highway merge consists of pinching off 18psi of boost, turbo singing, shuffling calmly through the gears. Seems kina effortless.

The tune has turned the 1-2 shift up to 11. It will bark the tires shifting if I hit it right. I would say old tune vs. new tune, gate spring has gained 10%. Noticeable, but not overwhelming. EGT's down significantly when putting beans on the plate with the extra boost allowed.

Qstar also cut the shift points down lower. It doesn't sound as cool, but makes use of the powerband better. I do miss it winding out but it does move a lllllitttttle better.

I do not know where to mount the WMI system yet. I'm thinking of adding a toolbox and putting the pump and tank in there. The dump truck will be doing the dirty hauling work and I can probably sacrifice the bed space now and be able to use the rest of the space for the side business, but I'd LIKE to be able to remove the toolbox easily if I need to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #236 ·
Automotive parking light Wheel Automotive tail & brake light Tire Vehicle

Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Sky

Automotive parking light Automotive tail & brake light Car Vehicle Automotive tire

Automotive parking light Automotive tail & brake light Land vehicle Car Vehicle

Dragging trees...tree caught on a stump and pulled the truck sideways into a 6" tree. Hit the tree with the upper right corner of the open tailgate.

Tailgate was kinda taco anyways but it's pushed the entire bottom bedside out an inch or more.

Can't decide if this is a reason to replace the bed or get a flatbed or not.

All the wood on the ground was in the bed, it hit pretty hard.
 
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View attachment 648785
View attachment 648786
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Dragging trees...tree caught on a stump and pulled the truck sideways into a 6" tree. Hit the tree with the upper right corner of the open tailgate.

Tailgate was kinda taco anyways but it's pushed the entire bottom bedside out an inch or more.

Can't decide if this is a reason to replace the bed or get a flatbed or not.

All the wood on the ground was in the bed, it hit pretty hard.
I'd remove the taillight, grab a 2x4 or bigger piece of wood and place the wood on the pulled out spot and give it a few good whacks with a hammer to see if the bed would go back into shape
 
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Discussion Starter · #238 ·
I'd remove the taillight, grab a 2x4 or bigger piece of wood and place the wood on the pulled out spot and give it a few good whacks with a hammer to see if the bed would go back into shape
Dad had the idea to put a piece of pipe in the tailgate bracket to bend back. So far that's the plan once I can get it in somewhere warm. The 2x4 may help get it all the way bent back
 

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Discussion Starter · #239 ·
Before I even damaged the bed, I had noticed that the low coolant light has been flashing on and off... Occasionally. It gradually had gotten worse and worse until a steady bubble at idle in the tank and the light flashing constantly. Its obvious I have a blown head gasket or a cracked something/broken PP. Last year I spent around 9000 to drive around 8500 miles with fuel and insurance.

Due to how shite the truck is body wise, interior wise, I don't know if I want to make the investment to do a full build.

its really tempting to just slam gaskets and head studs on the 141 with a few upgrades and skip the block build and wait till the IP fails or the TC fails.

There is a LOT of cool crap I can do or buy for cheaper than it will cost to build this engine how I want it. I could have been driving a new truck for what I spent on mine this year. If the cost gets too high, will have to revaluate.

I'd been hoarding engines since 2016 (have 5 to work with if you count the one in the truck) 2 1982 660's, 1 1995 141, 1 1996 141, 1 early 506 on a 1997. Engine Hoarder problems

Tearing down, inspecting and cleaning the good parts hoping to shake out a good base for a build.

Currently I am PRICING a build...
506 heads (or at least, diamond precups and good heads) HO water pump 9 blade fan, accessory drive brackets lower intake (for paint) exhaust manifolds (paint)
Off my engine I'll use the turbo, upper intake, alternator, ac compressor, PS pump, turbo drain, IP, injectors, ac components, fludidampr.
a non- cracked 1982 RED BLOCK (TBD... based on further inspection) Balanced rotating assy with polished rods (have spare 6.2 for more parts if other

Small cost drivers: New bearings, gaskets, seals, freeze plugs, concrete

Big cost drivers, essential
Any machining that needs to be done to the block or heads, possible needing a crank. (pending measuring and teardown.
Head studs, main studs, main girdle, and possibly
Total Seal rings.
I'd like the valve covers to ****ing seal, so Quadstar's valve cover kit

Big cost drivers, optional
Coating on pistons
Coating on heads
new IP (75K on this one, opportunity for performance upgrade)
new torque converter (old one is shuddering)
 

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Discussion Starter · #240 ·
Struggle is real. I have the 506 totally torn down and the parts cleaned and the scrap ready to go.

Right now the parts washer is full of pistons from the 141 block that had two spun rod bearings. The rings are extremely pitted on all of the pistons, and the pistons with the spun bearings had enough slop to hit the crank and damaged the wrist pin area. Down to six pistons. I keep trying to clean them up enough to see issues and it seems like no amount of scrubbing touches them.

One piston looks I may have dropped on the floor (can't remember, i didn't think it was this engine) and the lip above the fire ring is like dented or eroded away. I'm going to toss it. Down to 5. Rod and stuff may be ok, unlike the spun ones.

I have no idea if the rotating assembly parts are worth anything but they are an absolute nightmare to clean. Making me dread the remaining two engines. A YouTube video said carb cleaner but that was on a gas engine. The 506 pistons did clean up ok with kerosene and the brass brush but still took a long time.

I bought some e85 gasoline to try to soak them and clean them up but they don't seem to respond to that. It does almost nothing and even makes new stains at the fill line in the bucket and the smell makes me sick.

So yes morale is pitifully low. I just don't have enough experience to make quick decisions on things and what should be scrapped or saved quickly and I might be wasting lots of time on things that should be scrapped.

So there are two parties of thought. The o-rings in the block must be done out of the truck and the party that says it can be done in the truck.

This further adds to the debate about whether or not I should build an engine or just fix the gaskets in the truck.

Lots of work to do before making an iron scrap run. 2 rotating assemblies and 8 heads to be pulled down and inspected.
 
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