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Discussion Starter · #201 ·
Truck is starting great in the cold. Ripped off at 10 degrees like it had been sitting in the garage. Spent some time last night researching head units. A backup camera and handsfree calling are something I miss from the car. I used to be a huge car stereo geek so it's been awhile since I looked for a new unit.

The bad... I parked too close to the wall so I couldn't mess with the squealing belt last night. This morning noticed diesel smell in the garage again. I had smelled it under the hood and assumed it was the ffm O-ring weeping on top. Replaced the filter and noticed diesel on the floor still. Several of the injectors are leaking at the bodies meaning they need to be retorqued or were lapped improperly. At least two on the driver's side are very wet

Also noticed a fairly good sized puddle of diesel under the tank. I'm hoping it was spilled from treating the the tank but terrified it's not. Its pretty much tank #2 time.
 
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Sorry to hear about your fuel leaks. Never ending battle with anything transportation related. Some will say, "it's the old vehicle syndrome", when I know more than a few people with new vehicle issues too. (Mostly electronics). We can consider ourselves fortunate that we have the ability to repair busted things. (Or in my case, "stupid" enuff to put up with it.) With me, it all comes down to saving $ on expensive labor costs, and tolerating the "imperfections" of seasoned areas.

You mentioned your injectors leaking at the body. Are you sure it's not just the fuel line connection? Sometimes with mine, after removing the line cluster, and reinstalling, at 1st it might have a drip or 2 here or there, but a little extra cranking of the B nut, (fitting) would be enuff to cure it.
As for the fuel tanks, when I changed mine in my 83 C-30 dually, I was surprised how inexpensive they were. But the labor part wasn't very enjoyable. And after 10-15 years, one tank has also begun leaking, but at the top, where the sending unit gasket/o-ring is. I hope yours is like you said, just some residual spillage. Good luck with that.
And congrats on your cold weather starting victory. Nice to hear you got that outta the way. Have a good one, and keep up the fight. :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #203 ·
Tank job went like crap. Got diesel everywhere draining it, got diesel in my hair, drank some and killed 20 pairs of rubber gloves trying to get it out of the truck. The tank came out like crap, went in like crap, and even has to come out again.

The Dorman tank weighed almost 5 lbs less than the Spectra tank, obviously better quality, more of the spot welds cracked on the Dorman. The Metrum Fuel rod went into the sending unit without issues...

The Dorman tank strap bolts (I have 4 of them now) were too short for the non Dorman tank. I bought a longer metic bolt from the hardware store which I had to endure a cringey day trip with the GF to be allowed to get... That bolt immediately stripped out in the Dorman captured nut.

By some oddity, I had saved the old factory captured nut and bolt from my first tank job years ago and found it, just before I punched the hell out some drywall and threw beer cans at the dog. That bolt worked great.

When I finally filled the tank with 7 gallons, the truck started and ran fine. Drove in a snowstorm to get a tank of fuel. The sender is reading just over a half of a tank and not budging! The only thing I can think that is wrong is a zip tie on the return line on the sending unit is keeping the float from going to the top. So I threw beer cans at the dog and punched the hell out some drywall. Going to have to pull the tank again very likely to fix it.

Got a different Stant fuel cap and the new cap makes the tank have even more violent sucking sounds than the old one. Probably go back to the old one...

I also bought some replacement taillights from TYC. They seem okay. Didn't fit the best. Not the brightest. Bought LED back up bulbs for them based on what Rock Auto said was the correct bulb. WRONG. These might go in the marker lights in the grille.

Replaced the rear mirror glass on the passenger side door with Dorman mirror glass. By some f6cking miracle it's reflective and sort of fit where the stock one was. Waiting for it to just randomly shatter like the rest of the poorly conceived trash I keep finding for this truck to try and make it decent.
 

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Got a different Stant fuel cap and the new cap makes the tank have even more violent sucking sounds than the old one. Probably go back to the old one...
Are you sure it is vacuum and not pressure you are hearing? Mine builds some slight pressure. Once in a while I can feel it blow past my hand if I take the fuel cap off fast enough. I think this pressure release from the tank is commonly mistaken for vacuum in the tank. Just my personal belief that many caps are unnecessarily replaced due to this.
 

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Not too many years back, the aftermarket made a killing on tank caps, because of emissions testing. I forgot how they were tested, just remember them saying you need to buy a new cap to pass. I'm sure it was one of the many scams from those programs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #206 · (Edited)
So far, no fuel leaking from the tank and the suction sound has normalized.

Truck has been running fine and has hauled lots of firewood hauled several horses and my whiny butt. It has served me well so far on my weekend adventures as a handyman. Usually the Entire bed and Entire cab is stuffed full of tools and boards.
Wheel Tire Automotive parking light Car Land vehicle
Automotive parking light Tire Wheel Car Sky

The oil leaks are becoming problematic. When I do handyman work at places with asphalt driveways, I have to put down cardboard to keep from staining the drive.

The fuel gauge is a problem. Its inconsistient. It was bouncing on "E" and I made an emergency fuel detour. I still had 10 gallons left.

Paleyjim and I have been going back and forth how to make me happier with the truck. Items such as the (IMO) harsh ride and general NVH from a rattletrap old truck, the crappy rusty body, and tire options.
 
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Well, at least you say it's running OK. It "is" pushing 30 years old, so you can't expect perfection. Oil leaks and rattling are part of old trucks. as I'm sure you're aware. You "will" need to rectumfy your problematic fuel gauge, but other than that, "drive it till it won't go anymore", and put as little time and $ into it as possible. Then keep your eyes peeled for a future replacement. Enjoy the fruits of your labor. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #208 ·
I have put a ton of work into it. I would HOPE it runs. I bought the best fuel sender on the market to avoid this problem, but it seems like everything else, you can't build a castle on SH*T.

The turbo I put on this winter may have a bad compressor shaft seal, when I put it in there was quite a bit of oil in there figured it could have been blowby. Had forgotten about that till now... Probably looking at a rebuild or replacement depending on what it looks like when the intake tube comes off.

Noticed that the bed is ripping off of the cross rails underneath. will need to throw some rivets at it to firm it back up. That may help with some of the alarming flexing and popping noises back there.
 

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How's the frame on that truck? I hear those years had weak frames. Or was that a wives tale?
 

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Discussion Starter · #210 ·
Frames fine, with an asterisk. The airbags I had on it forever had a "box" channel in between the leaves. It rust jacked and spread the frame channels a bit. I was able to bend them back straight with a crescent wrench.. I have sanded and painted on the frame on about 5 separate occasions. I think it's pretty solid myself for a 1/2 ton and I have a lot experience with vehicles with junk frames having at least 3 vehicles succumb to that death. Rigidity and structural integrity are questions I can't answer exactly.

It does seem to have a "shudder" or a resonance to it when you close the door, hop on it. etc. Usually accompanied by mystery zones of squeaking or rattling. My little brother works at a company installing truck beds and he says this "death" shake is present on worn out/overloaded trucks. For what it's worth. I've done the cab mounts in poly and fixed all the collapsed frame eyelets for the mounts. Need to do the radiator support mounts (again) yet. I replaced the rad support mounts on the frame and replaced the bushings with Dorman ones in 2013, they split right away but still seem to exist down there, Going to add that to the "list of NVH reducing activities"

Pop rivet the bed together
Adjust and tighten front and rear bumpers
Find a rubber bumper for the fuel door
Replace the rad support mounts
Find a way to secure the grill due to broken tabs on bottom
Dash rattle stops
Felt washers for the cluster trim
Door pins
 

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Frames fine, with an asterisk. The airbags I had on it forever had a "box" channel in between the leaves. It rust jacked and spread the frame channels a bit. I was able to bend them back straight with a crescent wrench.. I have sanded and painted on the frame on about 5 separate occasions. I think it's pretty solid myself for a 1/2 ton and I have a lot experience with vehicles with junk frames having at least 3 vehicles succumb to that death. Rigidity and structural integrity are questions I can't answer exactly.

It does seem to have a "shudder" or a resonance to it when you close the door, hop on it. etc. Usually accompanied by mystery zones of squeaking or rattling. My little brother works at a company installing truck beds and he says this "death" shake is present on worn out/overloaded trucks. For what it's worth. I've done the cab mounts in poly and fixed all the collapsed frame eyelets for the mounts. Need to do the radiator support mounts (again) yet. I replaced the rad support mounts on the frame and replaced the bushings with Dorman ones in 2013, they split right away but still seem to exist down there, Going to add that to the "list of NVH reducing activities"

Pop rivet the bed together
Adjust and tighten front and rear bumpers
Find a rubber bumper for the fuel door
Replace the rad support mounts
Find a way to secure the grill due to broken tabs on bottom
Dash rattle stops
Felt washers for the cluster trim
Door pins
FWIW, I read several posts / articles around the web about poly cab mounts completely destroying the ride. Making the NVH unbearable. I think there's a use for poly over rubber in some places - those of performance. But body mounts I would not consider in poly for an old truck. Given all I read on it, I think it would rattle my bones too much for no real benefit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #212 ·
FWIW, I read several posts / articles around the web about poly cab mounts completely destroying the ride. Making the NVH unbearable. I think there's a use for poly over rubber in some places - those of performance. But body mounts I would not consider in poly for an old truck. Given all I read on it, I think it would rattle my bones too much for no real benefit.
I read that too, but with no clear alternatives besides hunting down good used mounts, I had to try them. I believe the OEM mounts are discontinued and everything else is Chinese maypop besides the poly.

I noticed no real difference from before/after and I'm definitely a Princess/pea kina guy on this stuff. I also changed to 2500 rear springs. It got a little punchier from those while empty, if anything. Otherwise, no change. In the winter the truck shakes more from the poly motor and trans mounts while it's cold. I don't believe poly are the best solution, but definitely holding the cab/engine/trans up and didn't make it worse than it already was imo.
 

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I read that too, but with no clear alternatives besides hunting down good used mounts, I had to try them. I believe the OEM mounts are discontinued and everything else is Chinese maypop besides the poly.

I noticed no real difference from before/after and I'm definitely a Princess/pea kina guy on this stuff. I also changed to 2500 rear springs. It got a little punchier from those while empty, if anything. Otherwise, no change. In the winter the truck shakes more from the poly motor and trans mounts while it's cold. I don't believe poly are the best solution, but definitely holding the cab/engine/trans up and didn't make it worse than it already was imo.
Maybe not.

I was a bit surprised on a recent cross country road trip when after a couple of thousand miles I decided to add a bit more air to my tires, noticing they were wearing on the edges, and how badly it harshened the ride when I did. Just going from like 55 to 68 pounds up front. I can't believe how much these old bones can feel. So while not telling you your business, maybe keep all that poly in mind as you're hunting down those vibrations and noises. As I tell the wife, we don't bounce back when we fall anymore. We crack ;-)

Keep up the detailing. It's always an enjoyable read.
 
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Discussion Starter · #214 ·
And now the ZEESEVENTYFUN begins.

Wednesday I'm going to pick up a used Quadstar Super 60 turbo and upper intake. The new GM8 turbo is leaking everywhere. I cannot afford a second sports car or another truck. So I'm going to hit two ostriches with one boulder and make this one much more fun.

I did contact Qstar to try and get some information, and got enough response to become confused and almost backed out of the deal. It's a non gated version for a manual transmission and is not recommended for an auto transmission, per them. Is it not gated, but, does it have the same housing size as a regular super 60? Or is it smaller? Is the non-gated the only difference to make it not recommended for an automatic? We will never know.

I can't afford a new gated version, upper intakes are on indefinite backorder and an external gate is much better for performance. I will probably run it on low boost around 15 psi and fuel for a GM8 and stock head bolts see what happens.
 
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The gate I used was a Precision Turbo PTE PW39. Looks like they are $246 on Amazon. Seemed like a quality piece, but there are cheaper options.
You probably don’t need a dual port. I would boost reference it instead of using the vac system. They do seem to leak a little soot by and cause problems with the BCS.
Too bad you can’t get more info on it before buying. Hope you plan to post pics and wheel measurements when you get it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #216 ·
Took me a bit of looking to find your old thread (read through the S300 thread first). The PW39 has stainless flanges I'll need to find mild steel flanges and piping. Havent been able to look much further.

My reading had indicated that I should go in general for a 46mm (ish) wastegate due to running lower boost on the street (and reading highly general material), but good to know the smaller gate will suffice.

I'll let you measure the turbo and do that. I still have a ton of doubts about jumping off of this bridge financially. The turbos are proven on the dyno though and many aren't. Hoping that the reputation, proven performance, and possible resale will preserve it as a good investment no matter what happens.
 

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The 39mm gate has about 50% more area than the stock 32mm. It was able to control boost just fine on my truck with the GM8. I don’t think it will have any difficulty with boost creep with the S60.
 

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Discussion Starter · #218 ·
The seller prompted me to get the turbo early on Monday, was a 1:45 drive there and back. Nice guy, going bigger on his truck. The deal went down full money for an S60 and an upper Intake. $1200.

The turbo has excess shaft play (IMO) and may need to be rebuilt. Not the happiest that I didn't try to talk him down on the spot. Could be a normal amount play for 5k miles, but it could also be oil clearance, or play from abuse or cheap parts.. A rebuild kit is not that much, but it may need balanced if disassembled.

I've taken the turbo to paleyjim to inspect and follow his advice on what to do.

Got a turbo drain kit from KB Diesel was $105 shipped. Jim had found that the stock drain would work per subclatter's HX40 swap thread. Both Quadstar and the seller said I would absolutely need an aftermarket drain. Mine tended to leak anyways, so maybe this will be better.

Shopping wastegates, looking around at cheap aftermarket ones at the moment...
 
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Here a LINK to the turbo measurements and photos.
I think the turbine housing is small, but with the external gate you are planning, I'd go with it and see what happens.
Pretty sure you do not need to rebuild it before using. Shaft play is ok. If you want that warm, fuzzy feeling, then put a kit in it - but I don't think you need it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #220 ·
I have PLENTY of warm fuzzy from internal bleeding spending over $1500 on a turbo upgrade on a $1500 truck!

Have the Precision PW39 on the way for around 250 shipped.

Intake adapter needed to the K47 (which you didn't mention sizing of in your S300 thread), piping needed for wastegate and the hose and barb from the intake to the wastegate.
 
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