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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up my short block and heads today...it certainly drained my wallet, so tonight it will be assembly time. I'm hoping to have it all back together and running by Sunday. If all goes well, I also had them install the girdle stud kit it was only 140$, if nothing else I think it will help. engine was bored 20 over, crank was turned 10 and 10 and the block decked 10 thou. My F heads were cleaned up (valve& seat grind). and I installed a frost plug in the intake to block the EGR. I had my oil cooler lines rebuilt here in Edmonton (Bosch Hydralics) they do reuse the alumninum pieces, but install stainless steel hoses in the middle section, I went this route as I don't have time to order from off this site (I've been watching that thread). My buddy who works in the local dealership claims they send all their hoses to this shop, because they do not leak, imagine that the local dealer wont even install their own parts. I suspect over time the lines will leak as the aluminun does not offer the strength of steel.Right now CR's old truck is in pieces scattered all over my garage floor. the tranny and TC are laying on the floor as well. If my old 98 does not sell soon, I can see its going to turn into a parts truck, to steal all the improved parts (ie, air box, thermo housing etc), damn for what the 98 owes me I should have dropped in the engine, and sold what was left for scrap..I've also installed the Pyro/tranny/boost pod in the 95, I just have to drill tap the intake and exhaust manifoldsFor all that care I'll keep ya updated of my progress.
 

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Which block did you use, the one you had or the one from the 95?
 

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So nick, if you punched that block out .020, my 18:1 psistons that I have waiting for you are pretty much ready to drop in, right?:rolleyes:

Just give me the address to ship them too;)
 

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everyone i talk to says not good to turn a diesel crank is this true?? cause i trashed a crack few mths ago cause it needed turned
 

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:nopics:
 

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BTW CR...I like the new avatar. ):h
 

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I think its ok too, just been wondering how long the mods will leave it up... it's not to offensive, i'll change back to my truck later, maybe after the lift is in.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
TDP I might need your slugs in the future,but time and money being what they are it was not feasible (likely I'll regret it in the future). I have to get this truck up and running, I don't know if I could have used them as the block was decked they installed 10 under pistons(shorter?), unless the pistons can be taken down 10 thou..
CR
I used your 929 block, as I was still nervous about using the 506 because it had a broke crank. Your old block is well seasoned and had no cracks or issues, so I had the gridle kit added as well. I used my F heads, the seats/valves were cleaned up, new valve seals installed

I also installed a new HO water pump, they don't list this for a 95, so I ordered a 98 HO pump.

I plugged at it last night and finally went to bed at 01:00 and managed to turn my short block into a long block all I have left to install is the fuel lines/injectors/exhaust/engine mounts and intake then I'll be ready to install the engine today.

I had scribed the pump prior to removal, And mitchel on Demand was not all that descriptive, so After the dots on the crank and cam were lined up I rotated the crank until I could line up the Pump gear dot and the cam gear dot...is this correct, another thing the pump gear bolts are only torqued to 17ftlbs that is not very tight, and I red locktighted them too, actually I red locked the backside of the water pump bolts as well...cant have any of them backing out:eek:
So today it should take an hour or so to get the rest of the stuff on the engine injectors/exhaust /turbo etc. and then to push the truck UP the incline into my garage. after that it should go quick:rolleyes:
Texan_Ron
I asked the machinest about turning the crank and he looked surprised, when I said I had heard the crank could not be turned, he responded that it was not an issue, and he had never had an issue because of it
 

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I rotated the crank until I could line up the Pump gear dot and the cam gear dot...is this correct
Yup, thats what i did!

Its nice to see that that block is crack free and well seasoned to boot. Good snag there! Can i have it back when your done. lol
 

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Did you also use the crank from the 95 engine? Just wondering if the composition of the older cranks were any better as that one has 350,000 + km's on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I used everything that was in the 95 short block. I also forgot to mention I drove a 47mm frost plug in the EGR hole too, and I still have to lengthen the PMD wires so I can remote mount it to the front of the rad.
CR
if you want it back.....
You can't have it (LOL)
 

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If you come across any parts you might need they may be laying in my garage, just let me know. IIRC i may have a skid plate for it, but then again maybe it doesn't fit with the lift kit, i can't really remember.
 

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CR, you need to talk that boy into going 18:1 like us.

Nick, why did they deck the block? that seems odd to have to do that.

With the pistons, that would make it 19:1, better than 21.5:1
 

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Actually Chicago i'm thinking about those pistons for the 94, but this truck runs so damn good i'm affraid to touch it. Wonder if this 94 has a strong block too?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
CR
We will have to talk maybe we can work some kind of deal. I still have enough parts left over to build a strong 506 block, and it could be done BEFORE you yank your 94.

Ideas are running rampant
 

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?? Starting to sound interesting now... lol

But as usuall most things will come down to the money, right!
 

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?? Starting to sound interesting now... lol

But as usuall most things will come down to the money, right!
Well if that 94 is running so nice maybe you should go for that 506 18:1, couse I need to do something with my 98 :D , way too much coolant in the oil pan:mad: ,
 

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Coolant in oil pan = not good
 

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Coolant in oil pan = not good
First I had coolant in the oil and out the tail pipe, I pulled the heads and gasket on one side was really bad, so bad that the ring was sapareted from the rest of the gasket. I thought that this was it, got new gaskets, bolts and move on. That only helped with the coolant from the pipe but I'm still leaking to oil. So I parked the truck for now till I get more motivation to pull the heads again - it sucks to do it twice one week. Is there a way to check which head is cracked ?
 

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If coolant is leaking into the pan, I'd also suspect a cracked cylinder block, where 15psi coolant can spew into the low\no pressure crankcase
 
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