Diesel Place banner

561 - 578 of 578 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,286 Posts
Denboy;1648123; said:
Swatkins.
Just the truck's guages.
Iam thinking we just have to go through the motions with this problems.
I would like to know why TX's rad works and a larger rad dosn't.
Den.
Have you seen the error scale that has been produced for that gauge? 210 on the factory gauge is about 225.

Also The main reason the V2 is more effective than a bigger rad is its position... Tx has it placed so the shielding system gives it maximum fresh air .. The v2 is more than just an additional rad, it used air dams and shielding to create high and low pressure zones to aid in air flow.

A bigger rad in the stock location is hindered by the heat from all the other sources, so you need all the other 06 equipment to make the bigger rad work :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,286 Posts
johenmar;1652196; said:
Does GM pick up the tab on this fix!?!

Only if you complain of overheating and are not living in the east... But it is NOT a fix... Read up on the years of overheating threads and you can get an understanding of the problems...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
Understanding correctly

All,

I read all 57 pgs and from what I gather getting the 06 box will cost you more in filters and that's about it?

I only saw where one person got better MPG, has anyone else? I pull a 9K 30ft travel trailer and did notice that my fan stayed on quite a bit but DIC never informed me about hot water. What should I do???

Kevin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,111 Posts
KevinsDMAX;1652730; said:
All,

I read all 57 pgs and from what I gather getting the 06 box will cost you more in filters and that's about it?

I only saw where one person got better MPG, has anyone else? I pull a 9K 30ft travel trailer and did notice that my fan stayed on quite a bit but DIC never informed me about hot water. What should I do???

Kevin
Kevin,
To answer your question the CAI will help the power some however it doesnt cure the overheat. Members of this board had CAIs way before GM put it out for an attempt to fix. We had the same results GM is now getting, it helps some, but it doesnt fix it.

Your trailer is significantly smaller than most of us who used to put the LLY to its knees. If the fan is running intermittently in high OATs, then I would check mpg and not worry if you can get 9 mpg. There is a simple cost effective CAI that will improve towing power available for you, about the cost of 2 of the "new filters".

If the fan is running continously and your mpg is 9 or less, and you tow a significant amount, the V2 will pay for itself in mpg alone. If you are currently getting 8 mpg and with the V2 you are getting 10, then at $2.60 per gallon the V2 will pay out in ~18500 miles. I put twice that a year towing and I went from 6.5 to 9.8 mpg, it has paid itself four times over in one year.

This alone makes me wonder why so many people would prefer to sit around and b*tch about having to pay for something that pays off, especially those of you with suspension, tire, stereo, etc. mods. Any of these mods cost in excess and none pay back at the pump. FWIW the V2 has outperformed every other mod in $in/$out that I have done to this truck on fuel alone, I have not factored in longevity, it can only get better.

I also have the TxC CAI kit, which uses the stock airbox and filter, it is so simple it hurts.

The other advantages are: more power, under hood temps are down, tranny runs cooler, A/C is cooler, EGT is cooler, and I can now have a conversation with my passengers without shouting.

Disadvantages are smooth quiet towing on the end of a long day can put the driver to sleep. :)

PS, my LLY truck outperforms two (stock) LBZ trucks in towing mileage and power. The three trucks are stacked against each other almost every other weekend for 400-1500 mile trips.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,286 Posts
D Lafleur;1652947; said:
Kevin,

PS, my LLY truck outperforms two (stock) LBZ trucks in towing mileage and power. The three trucks are stacked against each other almost every other weekend for 400-1500 mile trips.
Stick a fan damn on it and you can really watch them cry :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,111 Posts
swatkins;1653022; said:
Stick a fan damn on it and you can really watch them cry :D
First I got to get that wimpy stock Ally upgraded. Next week, then the whoopin is going to get Ugly. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
06 air box

I had this mod done to my 05 and it runs much better. It changed my power and respondance so much I did the exaust too. Haven't had a chance to check fuel mileage yet. Go get it. Bill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
D Lafleur;1652947; said:
Kevin,
To answer your question the CAI will help the power some however it doesnt cure the overheat. Members of this board had CAIs way before GM put it out for an attempt to fix. We had the same results GM is now getting, it helps some, but it doesnt fix it.

Your trailer is significantly smaller than most of us who used to put the LLY to its knees. If the fan is running intermittently in high OATs, then I would check mpg and not worry if you can get 9 mpg. There is a simple cost effective CAI that will improve towing power available for you, about the cost of 2 of the "new filters".

If the fan is running continously and your mpg is 9 or less, and you tow a significant amount, the V2 will pay for itself in mpg alone. If you are currently getting 8 mpg and with the V2 you are getting 10, then at $2.60 per gallon the V2 will pay out in ~18500 miles. I put twice that a year towing and I went from 6.5 to 9.8 mpg, it has paid itself four times over in one year.

This alone makes me wonder why so many people would prefer to sit around and b*tch about having to pay for something that pays off, especially those of you with suspension, tire, stereo, etc. mods. Any of these mods cost in excess and none pay back at the pump. FWIW the V2 has outperformed every other mod in $in/$out that I have done to this truck on fuel alone, I have not factored in longevity, it can only get better.

I also have the TxC CAI kit, which uses the stock airbox and filter, it is so simple it hurts.

The other advantages are: more power, under hood temps are down, tranny runs cooler, A/C is cooler, EGT is cooler, and I can now have a conversation with my passengers without shouting.

Disadvantages are smooth quiet towing on the end of a long day can put the driver to sleep. :)

PS, my LLY truck outperforms two (stock) LBZ trucks in towing mileage and power. The three trucks are stacked against each other almost every other weekend for 400-1500 mile trips.
what do ya weigh currently getting that mileage? just curious..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,111 Posts
evil16v;1655095; said:
what do ya weigh currently getting that mileage? just curious..
Depending on the event and participants 23.5K~24.5K.
Total load. I am also tall (13'7"), wide (8'6"), and long (44' 6").
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Seems like the General has been reading here, just wish they would read a little deeper.

Document ID# 1850306, is the instructions to retrofit the 06 air box to the LLY as an overheating cure. According to the bulletin it looks like a reflash is needed also.

John Kennedy found this one somewhere and hopefully he'll have time to explain it better later today. I just had to SHARE!):h Sad part is they put the x-box on one of mine last week!:(
05 LLY should I ass-u-me that my aftermarket open air cleaner has helped this issue?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,390 Posts
I don't think so. GM's "fix" was to replace the air box when there was nothing wrong with it. The intake "problem" was the duct going into the turbo (aka, "mouthpiece"). Many of us replaced it with either an LBZ duct, a Kodiak duct, or an after-market duct. While this is an excellent and recommended mod, and it might help a very little bit with overheating, it doesn't solve that problem. An auxiliary radiator, or some have had success with a big oil cooling radiator, is really the only solution. Or, live somewhere that doesn't have long hot uphill grades, and certainly not west of the Rockies. Or, be one of the 1% lucky ones who claim not to have a problem.
 
  • Like
Reactions: OkDually

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I can't believe that the '06 box is that superior to what others like myself have tried, and still OH'd. Yeah it has got to help, but it is not the total solution.

I doubt that the flash would alter anything significantly enough to reduce heat, as the EPA restrictions must still be met.
Sorry if I had to reply here, I couldn't find where I chime in but. Re: overheating pull on hot days with LLY all I see here and elsewhere is chatter about the intake sucking hot air. Yes that's not good and can be corrected easily . mine has an aftermarket open intake but this isn't going to cause overheating while pulling in hot weather. I just bought mine the cooling system seems inferior . The cooling fan diameter is a little small and engages frequently at all speeds most of all these factory radiator is a joke. A small 2 row P.O.S. is not going to cool this turbo backed motor pulling my 18000 lb 5th wheel. The temp gauge climbs as your speed climbs. Running 195-200 at 66-70 170-180 at 0-45mph it fluctuates with the speed and rpm. I knew the defects if LLY but liked the redesign and lack of DEF. I will be installing a built to order 4 Row brass radiator unless I can find one already to my specs eotrer aluminum or brass. I'm going to install a larger oil cooler possibly with reservoir. I will see after the larger coming capacity if the cooling fan still engages too frequent if so will deal with it. I'll also post results too.
I don't think so. GM's "fix" was to replace the air box when there was nothing wrong with it. The intake "problem" was the duct going into the turbo (aka, "mouthpiece"). Many of us replaced it with either an LBZ duct, a Kodiak duct, or an after-market duct. While this is an excellent and recommended mod, and it might help a very little bit with overheating, it doesn't solve that problem. An auxiliary radiator, or some have had success with a big oil cooling radiator, is really the only solution. Or, live somewhere that doesn't have long hot uphill grades, and certainly not west of the Rockies. Or, be one of the 1% lucky ones who claim not to have a problem.
That's why I'm going to replace that small factory 2 row with a 4 row. I did that on my old dodge 5.9 it couldn't pull my 5th wheel up hills with that truck either without overheating . The 4 row is old school and works. The views are narrower but using 4 rows makes the radiator 25%deeper and much more cooling fins per sq in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,390 Posts
Let us know how the 4 row radiator works. Beware that those who spent a lot of time and effort back in the mid-2000's (the "LLY Overheating Discussion Wars") found that air flow restriction through the radiator stack and engine compartment was a big problem. The aux radiator mounted below the original radiator, behind the bumper (or in the same position, a large oil cooler), is fed a completely different air flow that exits below the motor. We seal it off from the air flow to the main radiator. Just an FYI!!

Some LLYs are worse than others. All I haul is a camper in the bed and I don't like what the temps did without an aux radiator. Long, hot uphill grades ... when the fan engaged, it just got hotter!! With the aux radiator, mine heats up to about 213*F or 215*F, the fan engages, and the temps drop. Yes, like it should have done from the factory.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Let us know how the 4 row radiator works. Beware that those who spent a lot of time and effort back in the mid-2000's (the "LLY Overheating Discussion Wars") found that air flow restriction through the radiator stack and engine compartment was a big problem. The aux radiator mounted below the original radiator, behind the bumper (or in the same position, a large oil cooler), is fed a completely different air flow that exits below the motor. We seal it off from the air flow to the main radiator. Just an FYI!!

Some LLYs are worse than others. All I haul is a camper in the bed and I don't like what the temps did without an aux radiator. Long, hot uphill grades ... when the fan engaged, it just got hotter!! With the aux radiator, mine heats up to about 213*F or 215*F, the fan engages, and the temps drop. Yes, like it should have done from the factory.
I don't pay much attention to scuttlebutt. I was aware of the heat issues before I purchase it knowing there's a simple common sence fix. Not blowing my own horn as a mechanic/large repair shop owner of 41 years have felt with factory issues making money that very few could along the way. The cooling system cools the motor . if it's inadequate modify it. If your temp gauge climbs with RPM/speed and falls with RPM/speed and has no mechanical issues the cooling capacity is too small or restricted and or lack of flow. A friend raced older better at willow springs Calif. Had an overheating problem but EVERYTHING LOOKED PERFECT.
He brought the car by checked rechecked nothing wrong. I ordered up a coolant filter that hooks inline with the upper hose. It filled with rust and tiny metal partials plugging the filter after 5 laps. It was apparent the builder of his motor (not me) didn't clean the block and heads after hit tank. His car dropped 20 deg after 4 filter cleanings. Any way I'll check back once I install the radiator .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,390 Posts
Well, I can say that my truck was 6 months old, towing a 5k lb. trailer up a long grade in mild weather (70's or maybe into the 80's), the fan kicked on, and it got hotter than I like. I'm a weenie so anything over 230*F and I'm freaking. Not that LLY's have any head gasket issues . . . oh yeah, that too. But I do want to know if a thicker core radiator solves the problem!!
 
561 - 578 of 578 Posts
Top