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Discussion Starter #1
Well a few months back I asked if anybody really wanted to see inside a 6.5TD and most people said yes, or at least why not...

So here is my preliminary work in getting ready and gathering parts for two 6.5 build ups I plan on executing this summer. The complete engine is a core I purchased from a 1993 1-ton dually and the partial engine is from a 1998 K-1500. Unfortunately I did not take any pictures on the partial disassembly of the 1998 electronic engine but I will easily be able to show pictures of the differences of the two styles of engines.

Feel free to ask questions, there are many here that can and will be glad to add to the thread along with myself.

I have fairly high resolution pictures, about 3mb each but have shrunk the size down considerably to keep our freinds on slower connections from smashing valuable computer equipment. If somebody needs a high res picture emailed feel free to pm me with the picture number/s that they need, but have patience with me please.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
The underside of the "F" code intake along with the proper intake gaskets for the "F" code engine. Also note that there is locating tabs built into the intake gaskets to match up with some holes in the intake face of the cylinder head to help you hold the gaskets in place when putting the intake back on the engine. There is no need for glue or silicone on the intake gaskets of these engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Pictures of the oil pressure and oil return line on the turbocharger. There is a flare fitting on the top for the oil feed, and two bolts holding the return line to the bottom of the turbocharger. The turbo is held to the passenger side manifold with four studs and nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
In the first picture here you can see one of the very rare times that an automotive manufacturer has created something to aid the mechanics. GM slotted the inner bolt hole in the turbo oil drain tube. This allows the turbo to be removed and replaced with this bolt partially threaded into the turbocharger.

The other pictures are simply showing the turbocharger removed from the exhaust manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The dipstick tube and its proper location is shown here. It can easily be removed and installed without removing the exhaust manifold. If you forget to put it in when you install a new engine or are working on your heads, don't worry, it is relatively easy to poke back into place with a freinds help.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here is where the hoses are routed that travel underneath the intake manifold. The injector return line is a the hard steel line and is supposed to be attached to the ends of the intake manifold when every thing is in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The drivers side rear accessory bracket is shown in the first picture.

The fan/water pump pulley and the crankshaft pulley are in the other pictures. You do not need any pullers to get these off, just unbolt them and wiggle them a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The oil filler tube is and its two mounting studs and nuts are shown here.

The other pictures are showing the location of the bolts that hold the coolant thermostat housing in place. This coolant manifold can be removed in the truck with very little previous dissasembly or interference from the other parts of the engine, that is of course with a universal/swivel socket and some patience.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Here is the proper arrangement for the injector return lines. The flow of the unused fuel actually starts at the rear of each cylinder head and flows through the bypass of each injector moving forward to the odd shaped hard steel fuel line at the front of the engine. It joins up at the front of the engine and then is pushed into the hard return line I pointed out about six posts back. It then returns to the fuel tank from the rear of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
There is no concrete order that the injector lines come of or order that they go on that I know of. I always remove the rearmost pairs of lines first and then move to the forward pairs. It works for me. A couple of increased angle open end wrenches make the job a bit easier but a plain old open end wrench will do the trick. There is no need to break the pairs up, in other words always take the injector lines off in the pairs that the factory have them arranged in. First timers may want to mark the lines according to the cylinder numbers to help avoid any confusion when it is time to re-assemble.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Here is the proper locations for the injector line hold down brackets, drivers side is the first picture. The other pictures are the same thing with the injectors and the injector line hold down brackets removed.
 

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