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Awesome work. The colors really pop on the house (y)
 

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Firestopper, the house looks great!

I don't know if you know this or not as I have yet to hear from anyone, even those in construction, that do know. But stucco is unlike most other exterior finishes (siding, wood siding, etc) in that it is not waterproof at all. And actually is meant to breathe. The waterproofing is in the underlayment house wrap - like brick houses are. Rain and moisture are expected to get under the stucco. Hit the waterproofing house wrap. And then leach back out through the stucco as well as run down the house wrap behind the stucco and exit out the bottom below the stucco. Why this matters is I see it ALL the time, people sealing things to the stucco. It doesn't work that way. I'm not saying you did that at all. I just thought of it while looking over your pics. Cement products, like stucco and grout are not water tight without additive. And stucco on the house is meant to breathe. Lets water and moisture in and lets it back out.

Even if you already knew this, I bet you've met plenty that had no idea.

PS - concrete roof tiles work similarly in that the waterproofing is the tar paper under the tiles that obviously do not block out blowing rain. The cement stucco and tiles protect the waterproofing membranes underneath from the Sun and not from water.
 

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Discussion Starter · #843 ·
Awesome work. The colors really pop on the house (y)
Thanks, one never really knows how well colors work until the entire job is done but these four colors happened to work out.
 
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Discussion Starter · #844 ·
Firestopper, the house looks great!

I don't know if you know this or not as I have yet to hear from anyone, even those in construction, that do know. But stucco is unlike most other exterior finishes (siding, wood siding, etc) in that it is not waterproof at all. And actually is meant to breathe. The waterproofing is in the underlayment house wrap - like brick houses are. Rain and moisture are expected to get under the stucco. Hit the waterproofing house wrap. And then leach back out through the stucco as well as run down the house wrap behind the stucco and exit out the bottom below the stucco. Why this matters is I see it ALL the time, people sealing things to the stucco. It doesn't work that way. I'm not saying you did that at all. I just thought of it while looking over your pics. Cement products, like stucco and grout are not water tight without additive. And stucco on the house is meant to breathe. Lets water and moisture in and lets it back out.

Even if you already knew this, I bet you've met plenty that had no idea.

PS - concrete roof tiles work similarly in that the waterproofing is the tar paper under the tiles that obviously do not block out blowing rain. The cement stucco and tiles protect the waterproofing membranes underneath from the Sun and not from water.
Thank you!
When I built the house in 98, we added brown dye to each stucco batch. This gave the house a sand finish and a very cool look for the first five years. The only thing I did was treat all the parapet walls with a water sealer. As you pointed out, stucco allows for water permutation but also allows moisture to breath and evaporate. The severe monsoon’s each summer bring hard driving rain so I felt sealing the parapets using a bug sprayer and Thompson’s water seal would be beneficial. What kills stucco out hears is the brutal UV leading to stucco failures.
After five years I began to notice how the stucco was wicking water faster than prior years. I then rolled the entire house with one primmer and two coats of elastek. The color was similar to the brown dye used originally.
Elastek is a special elastomeric formulated here in Tucson.
Back in 03 they welcomed DIY’ers, unfortunately they now only deal with roofing contractors and individual painters.
That paint job lasted 19 years until this paint job.
I have a hunch some folks failed to properly prep the stucco before applying elastek. It’s a 100% sealed system so if any moisture finds it’s way in, sever damage occurs and or mold will grow. The acrylic paint formulas most manufacturers use do allow paint to breath. Dunn-Edwards formulated Endurance shield holds up good in the SW desert. A major failure points would be cracked caulking around windows.
Anyway, no offense to any house painters but I hope I never have to do this again.🤣
 

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Now we know what you have been doing with all your spare time. :D

Great job as usual

L8R
 

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Thank you!
When I built the house in 98, we added brown dye to each stucco batch. This gave the house a sand finish and a very cool look for the first five years. The only thing I did was treat all the parapet walls with a water sealer. As you pointed out, stucco allows for water permutation but also allows moisture to breath and evaporate. The severe monsoon’s each summer bring hard driving rain so I felt sealing the parapets using a bug sprayer and Thompson’s water seal would be beneficial. What kills stucco out hears is the brutal UV leading to stucco failures.
After five years I began to notice how the stucco was wicking water faster than prior years. I then rolled the entire house with one primmer and two coats of elastek. The color was similar to the brown dye used originally.
Elastek is a special elastomeric formulated here in Tucson.
Back in 03 they welcomed DIY’ers, unfortunately they now only deal with roofing contractors and individual painters.
That paint job lasted 19 years until this paint job.
I have a hunch some folks failed to properly prep the stucco before applying elastek. It’s a 100% sealed system so if any moisture finds it’s way in, sever damage occurs and or mold will grow. The acrylic paint formulas most manufacturers use do allow paint to breath. Dunn-Edwards formulated Endurance shield holds up good in the SW desert. A major failure points would be cracked caulking around windows.
Anyway, no offense to any house painters but I hope I never have to do this again.🤣
Having moved to the SW from the MW, I was new to stucco. What got me looking into how the system works is after I had a patio cover installed years ago I noticed some strange occurrences. The Alumawood roof for the cover meets the stucco. The installer added flashing at the contact to the house, but the flashing only meets the stucco of the house and then was caulked heavily. I wondered how that was going to keep rain from running down the wall, hitting the flashing and then simply leaching into and behind the stucco. Well, it doesn't. And in all honesty, if I were installing these patio covers in the SW I expect I would have known that as it looks obvious when you realize the stucco is not sealed. My installer obviously did not know that as he wasted his time and money with the flashing.

So what happens is wet spots will show up on the wall below the patio cover in a heavy rain. It can be raining and the house wall stucco above the cover's roof is obviously wet from the rain. But then, if it's raining hard enough, wet spots will start to show on the stucco under the cover. A normally all dry wall as it's covered, but rain water is coming from behind the stucco. And that was my 100% proof that my suspicions that stucco, like cement grout, is not water proofing for the house. So I went looking for more info on line and was surprised that not only did the patio cover installer have no idea about that, but neither did anybody I mentioned it to.

Btw, my painted stucco walls are over 16 years old with the original builder's paint. The wet spots during heavy rain has been going on for over 10 years. As an added test I even poked a hole in the stucco (but not in anything under it) during one of those rains and out came the water. Scary if you don't know how it works. But it's just doing its job. This was later confirmed when I replaced an exterior door frame and sealed the trim to the stucco. You can guess what happened. The rain water gets behind the stucco and hits the unpainted backside of the wood door frame rotting it out in about 2 years. Doing it again and right this time is on the list. Which would mean either breaking back the stucco around the door so I can add house wrap from the house to the door frame or simply waterproofing the backside of the door frame - painting it before installing it. Note that the house framing is all covered with house wrap and so the only thing getting wet is the backside of the doors frame.

All of this has made me more aware that unlike sidings such as wood, aluminum and vinyl, you cannot seal things to the stucco for the stucco is not sealed anyhow. So you have to go back to the actual underlayment water barrier house wrap if you actually want a seal.

I see what you did though. You sealed your stucco with the Elastek and now you have to be sure it is sealed everywhere so you don't have trapped water. When I repaint, I'll prolly still go the breathable paint route just because it's worked fine so far and too many times I make things worse trying to make them "better" - lol. But not always and that's why I keep doing it.

It's nice talking shop (y) Typically, your projects are beyond me, but every now and again... lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #847 ·
Conductor heads

I want to prevent prolonged splashing from the scuppers so decided to install downspouts on nine scuppers. These same nine scuppers were upgraded to 5" when I re-roofed back in March. The gutter companies must think I fell off the turnip truck because the nine conductor heads and downspouts were quoted at $7K. Outrageous for cheap 24 gauge aluminum heads and generic gutter downspouts. I figure the material they use would cost close to $125 per scupper so why would these crooks expect me to pay over $770 per scupper.
Solution...
Make my own conductor heads and down spouts.
As many of you know I normally don't draw when designing projects but these did require some table and computer time.
The concept on paper.
Front view.
Rectangle Schematic Font Parallel Pattern

Sides view. Notice the upper right hand portion of the drawing. The house has a taper inward towards the top of the parapet walls so a slight kick was added. All are slightly different since the stucco was hand applied. Each conductor heads will have an assigned number for install.
Handwriting Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel

The last sketch prior to CAD.
Rectangle Handwriting Font Schematic Material property

The CAD program did reveal a slight oversight on my part as the side plates would have been 1.5" too short.
Handwriting Rectangle Font Pattern Parallel

The main body cut on the plasma table and ready for breaking. The 3-3/4" x 3-3/4" square will accommodate a 14 gauge 4" x 4" down spout. The heads were made from 16 gauge.
Wood Tints and shades Art Trunk Font

Breaking the 45º on the side plates.
Sky Automotive tire Road surface Wood Asphalt

18 ready for tacking.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tool Gas Machine

They are turning out pretty good so far.
Automotive tire Engineering Composite material Wood Gas

Looks like a Supirior box compared to those expensive thin gauge aluminum ones that a humming bird could dent.
Automotive tire Line Asphalt Red Composite material

Rinse and repeat 8 more times. The first two on the lower right hand side have straight backs because that parapet wall is taller than the rest.
Automotive tire Tread Tire Gas Synthetic rubber

On hold as more work has come our way.
Stay tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #848 ·
A update on the garage doors.
I rolled and brushed two coats of acid blocking primer on both front doors. I will be using Iron and copper paint with two different kinds of activators. My minds eye is seeing a cool rust with green patina for the doors. Many homes in the area use rust finishes on garage doors but I haven't seen what I'm after yet.
I've had several compliments on the garage doors with the primer finish. I didn't tell anyone its only primer.:ROFLMAO:
Sky Land lot Asphalt Building Road surface

Don't mind the masking on the sides and header.
Sky Cloud Land lot Asphalt Beige

A test piece using copper paint and green patina.
Brown Wood Rectangle Wood stain Fixture

The iron paint has been unavailable fore 14 months due to material shortage in the formulation. They use real iron and real copper in the formula so Modern Masters has been environmentally testing the new Iron formula for the past year and a half to ensure the new formula will hold up to the elements.
I want way more rust with patina streaks in the mix. I might have to invest in a handheld battery operated airless. It seems rolling takes way too long and the paint has to be wet when the activator is used.
Rectangle Tints and shades Wood Pattern Font

The two gallons of the acid blocking primer, copper paint, activators, and X-treme sealer ran close to nine hundred shipped but I say "BUY ONCE CRY ONCE" so the wife no longer asks silly questions.:LOL::ROFLMAO:
Bottle Product Blue Liquid Plastic bottle

Last I read, Modern Masters will be releasing the new iron pain in February 2023. On hold on this project but again more shop work has come through the doors. At lease the primmed doors look painted hehehe.
Stay tuned for this one too...
 

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Discussion Starter · #849 ·
B&W Turnover gooseneck hitch, Air-lift 7300EZ Bluetooth compressor and Air-ride 5000 bags.

The rig is a 2019 F-150 eco-boost FX 4x4.
Trailer.com has been great to deal with. They are friendly folks who strive to make the customer happy. They also price match and save the project $270 on the wireless compressor. The owner will be pleased with the savings.
etrailer.com also shipped within two days of ordering.
The part numbers for the hitch.
Shipping box Package delivery Packing materials Wood Carton

The hardware is grade 8 and cadmium plated while all the brackets are powder coated to a nice fit and finish.
Product Circuit component Font Hardware programmer Electronic engineering

The main brackets.
Bumper Automotive exterior Asphalt Wood Gas

Drilling the Aluminum bed was too easy. Unlike the 2020 F-350 I did a similar install the F-150's bed does not provide a flat area for the socket. This means a potential fore the hole saw to "dance" before cutting a groove.
Tip: when hole saw drilling thin soft irregular profile material such as this bed, run the hole saw in reverse until a groove is established. This doesn't take long and before you know it you have a nice hole were you need it. You only get one chance so make it count!
Second tip: If the bed has a sprayed in liner, you must take into account the thickness of the buildup spray.
In this case the measurement is 42-5/8" from the end of the bed (tailgate end) with the added 1/16'-1/8" of build up I added 1/16" for a measurement of 42-11/16" from the tail end of the bed. Side to side the measurement came to 25-1/4". Because the body panels and bed are made from aluminum, care must be taken to avoid any electrolysis from occurring. All bare aluminum must be painted. After a deburr, a small artist brush was used to coat the edge of the new hole.
Wood Textile Grey Rectangle Font

The B&W kit also comes with polypropylene tape to insulate any contact with the aluminum.
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive tire Automotive exterior

The kit also comes with these two fishing wires to assist in threading the hardware into place. Precision cut spacers hold the bolts centered.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive exterior Bicycle

A cross member was used to hold the socket centered and prevented from cutting the tape.
Wood Gas Composite material Denim Hardwood

All hardware torqued to 110 ftlbs.
Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive exterior Steering wheel Automotive tire

The ball up and spring loaded safety chain u-bolts installed.
Wood Rectangle Composite material Gas Flooring

The ball nested. The tape around the socket is unscathed.
Automotive tire Blue Wood Rectangle Road surface

To be continued...
 

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That's a great tip on using a hole saw (y)

Hope you and your family have a wonderful Thanksgiving!
 
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Discussion Starter · #851 · (Edited)
The last pieces to be torqued were the side plates. Bothe of these bolts required fishing and spacers.
Yeah both rear shocks were blown and leaking. It was at this point that I realized this rig had a lift because the distance to bridge the gap for the bags was big. After some research I found some spacers on eBay for $60 shipped from LV.
Ordered on Saturday November 19 and they arrived with yesterday's mail.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper

With the hitch completed the bags would have been next but without the spacers I did as much as I could without said spacers. The brake and ABS support bracket was modified. The Milwaukee M12 hack saw worked really nice trimming said bracket.
Plant Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood

The Pro Comp lift utilizes a rear spring spacer with a horn to work with the factory bump stop. These horns will need to go.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Line Engineering

Using adjustable stands, one side was removed at a time to prevent any unwanted shifting to the rear axel.
The band saw did a sweet job of trimming the horn away.
Wood Gas Engineering Composite material Machine

Back in with full clearance for the bags.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Engineering Gas Auto part

Checking the angles to determine if level or angled spacers were needed.
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood

The truck back on the ground with loaded Suspention a measurement was taken to determine the spacers needed.
The number was 10-1/4" so 4" spaces along with the 1" puck spacer they provided will work.
Pipeline transport Yellow Automotive tire Plumbing valve Gas

Officially on hold with the bags I focused on mounting and wiring in the compressor.
Two 1/4-20x 1" bolts were welded 7" apart. I always pull the negative terminal when welding on vehicles. The ground clamp is inches away from the area to be welded.
Light Automotive exterior Gas Composite material Bumper

After a shot of black enamel to protect the plain bolts, the compressor was bolted in place. Flat washers compressor flat washers followed by nyloc nuts.
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive exterior

The compressor mounted.
Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Automotive design Vehicle

More to come...
Happy Thanksgiving!
 

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Discussion Starter · #852 ·
That's a great tip on using a hole saw (y)

Hope you and your family have a wonderful Thanksgiving!
Thank you sir! I hope you have a great Thanksgiving too. Im heading to the grill next. This is our 25th year of lobster tacos since we don't like three weeks of Turkey leftovers.:ROFLMAO:
 

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2007 Chevrolet 3500 Silverado Classic LWB crew cab,dually, Kennedy dual pumps, , Donaldson filters
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Conductor heads

I want to prevent prolonged splashing from the scuppers so decided to install downspouts on nine scuppers. These same nine scuppers were upgraded to 5" when I re-roofed back in March. The gutter companies must think I fell off the turnip truck because the nine conductor heads and downspouts were quoted at $7K. Outrageous for cheap 24 gauge aluminum heads and generic gutter downspouts. I figure the material they use would cost close to $125 per scupper so why would these crooks expect me to pay over $770 per scupper.
Solution...
Make my own conductor heads and down spouts.
As many of you know I normally don't draw when designing projects but these did require some table and computer time.
The concept on paper.
Front view.
View attachment 655186
Sides view. Notice the upper right hand portion of the drawing. The house has a taper inward towards the top of the parapet walls so a slight kick was added. All are slightly different since the stucco was hand applied. Each conductor heads will have an assigned number for install.
View attachment 655187
The last sketch prior to CAD.
View attachment 655179
The CAD program did reveal a slight oversight on my part as the side plates would have been 1.5" too short.
View attachment 655180
The main body cut on the plasma table and ready for breaking. The 3-3/4" x 3-3/4" square will accommodate a 14 gauge 4" x 4" down spout. The heads were made from 16 gauge.
View attachment 655188
Breaking the 45º on the side plates.
View attachment 655181
18 ready for tacking.
View attachment 655182
They are turning out pretty good so far.
View attachment 655183
Looks like a Supirior box compared to those expensive thin gauge aluminum ones that a humming bird could dent.
View attachment 655184
Rinse and repeat 8 more times. The first two on the lower right hand side have straight backs because that parapet wall is taller than the rest.
View attachment 655185
On hold as more work has come our way.
Stay tuned.
Dad had that same brake ,how dit it get to Arizona :unsure: :unsure:

Your cad system much more advanced than mine. I am sure though that my Cardboard Aided Design would have got me close.

Great job as always, my fabrication brother.(y):unsure:

Till L8R
 

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2007 Chevrolet 3500 Silverado Classic LWB crew cab,dually, Kennedy dual pumps, , Donaldson filters
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The last pieces to be torqued were the side plates. Bothe of these bolts required fishing and spacers.
Yeah both rear shocks were blown and leaking. It was at this point that I realized this rig had a lift because the distance to bridge the gap for the bags was big. After some research I found some spacers on eBay for $60 shipped from LV.
Ordered on Saturday November 19 and they arrived with yesterday's mail.
View attachment 655205
With the hitch completed the bags would have been next but without the spacers I did as much as I could without said spacers. The brake and ABS support bracket was modified. The Milwaukee M12 hack saw worked really nice trimming said bracket.
View attachment 655206
The Pro Comp lift utilizes a rear spring spacer with a horn to work with the factory bump stop. These horns will need to go.
View attachment 655207
Using adjustable stands, one side was removed at a time to prevent any unwanted shifting to the rear axel.
The band saw did a sweet job of trimming the horn away.
View attachment 655209
Back in with full clearance for the bags.
View attachment 655208
Checking the angles to determine if level or angled spacers were needed.
View attachment 655210
The truck back on the ground with loaded Suspention a measurement was taken to determine the spacers needed.
The number was 10-1/4" so 4" spaces along with the 1" puck spacer they provided will work.
View attachment 655211
Officially on hold with the bags I focused on mounting and wiring in the compressor.
Two 1/4-20x 1" bolts were welded 7" apart. I always pull the negative terminal when welding on vehicles. The ground clamp is inches away from the area to be welded.
View attachment 655212
After a shot of black enamel to protect the plain bolts, the compressor was bolted in place. Flat washers compressor flat washers followed by nyloc nuts.
View attachment 655213
The compressor mounted.
View attachment 655214
More to come...
Happy Thanksgiving!
Great tip about removing the negative battery terminal, and keeping the welding ground clamp as close as possible to the location of welding. Young neighbors son building a welding bed on his 1 ton Dodge dually did not know the welding ground clamp had fallen on to the exhaust pipe. Fried several of the computers. Waited a long time for Stealership to get it repaired, and no telling how much lighter his wallet is. He gained considerable knowledge.

L8R
 

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Discussion Starter · #855 ·
Dad had that same brake ,how dit it get to Arizona :unsure: :unsure:

Your cad system much more advanced than mine. I am sure though that my Cardboard Aided Design would have got me close.

Great job as always, my fabrication brother.(y):unsure:

Till L8R
Great tip about removing the negative battery terminal, and keeping the welding ground clamp as close as possible to the location of welding. Young neighbors son building a welding bed on his 1 ton Dodge dually did not know the welding ground clamp had fallen on to the exhaust pipe. Fried several of the computers. Waited a long time for Stealership to get it repaired, and no telling how much lighter his wallet is. He gained considerable knowledge.

L8R
The Jensen-Whitney apron brake is from the 40’s.
I’ve owned it since 2003 and has come in handy.
Good old American iron.
I’ve never fried any computers using this practice, but am always uneasy when doing hot work next to a plastic fuel tank like this project. I do form cardboard around to keep those sparks from bouncing into tight places and keep an extinguisher close by.
I hope you had a wonderful Thanksgiving brother.
 

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2007 Chevrolet 3500 Silverado Classic LWB crew cab,dually, Kennedy dual pumps, , Donaldson filters
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The Jensen-Whitney apron brake is from the 40’s.
I’ve owned it since 2003 and has come in handy.
Good old American iron.
I’ve never fried any computers using this practice, but am always uneasy when doing hot work next to a plastic fuel tank like this project. I do form cardboard around to keep those sparks from bouncing into tight places and keep an extinguisher close by.
I hope you had a wonderful Thanksgiving brother.
Years ago, dads welding shop, always welding and installing trailer hitches. Remember the older vehicles had steel tanks, no auto darkening lenses in the welding hood, strictly stick welding, strike an arc within 1 1/2 of a steel gas tank.

Dont miss those days. :rolleyes:

Keep on keepin on,

L8R
 

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Discussion Starter · #857 ·
With the compressor mounted the intake line was routed inside the boxed frame and protected using wire loom.
The filter head was secured in from of a body mount away from direct elements.

The line to the left of the compressor is the air intake.
Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper

Its comes out of the frame about 3' away.
Hood Automotive tire Automotive design Bumper Automotive exterior


With the compressor on the drivers inner frame rail the power cables had to be routed to the passengers side were the battery and power distribution box is located.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Car Vehicle

More wire loom was used as the power cables were fed through the cross member located in front of the compressor.

The power cables protected by the crossmember.
Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Gas Motor vehicle

Out the passengers side and up along the top of the frame were it secures to a larger harness leading to the power distribution box and battery. The Compressor has a positive (red), negative (black0 and a pink wire that is connected to a low amp ignition source. I found fuse #10, a rain sensor with a mini 5 amp fuse to tap into. The pink wire (module) also has an in line fuse of 3 amp. The red + also has an inline fuse for the compressor.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Tire Bumper Automotive exterior

On with mounting the bag spacers and bags.
The passengers side has the exhaust system so careful routing was considered. Here you can see why the rear spring block horn was removed.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive fuel system Automotive air manifold Car

The driver's side had the brake lines and ABS system to work around. A minimum of 1/2" clearance all around is required for these bags. On the bag spacers, I used similar spacers on my rig and they are rated to 10 tons of compression and made of 1/4" steel. The snap together pucks I'm not a fan of.
Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle Wheel Gas

T's were added to each bag for a manual air fill back up in the event the compressor fails. Each line was routed towards the rear bumper. I thought mounting the Schrader valves to the license plate would be practical. Left (drivers) and right Passengers bag. When I installed a similar system on a F-350, I was able to utilize the larger fuel/DEF fill area behind the larger door. This rigs fuel fill area was too small.
Vehicle registration plate Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Vehicle Bumper

Lastly the exhaust system got wrapped in header insulation and secured via hose clamps. The 1/4" air supply line was also protected with 10mm heat resistance loom.
Tire Automotive tire Hood Leg Motor vehicle

After pairing my smart phone to the compressor the system came alive and very intuitive to use.
Sky Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive parking light

A fun project and on to the next.
Thanks for visiting...
 

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Discussion Starter · #858 ·
Years ago, dads welding shop, always welding and installing trailer hitches. Remember the older vehicles had steel tanks, no auto darkening lenses in the welding hood, strictly stick welding, strike an arc within 1 1/2 of a steel gas tank.

Dont miss those days. :rolleyes:

Keep on keepin on,

L8R
I remember back in the mid to late 80's, I was installing a fifth wheel hitch on a new chevy dually. Those kits back then required a fair amount of cutting and welding. My boss had a huge thermo dynamics plasma with a large torch (too big).
As I was cutting away when I suddenly smelled diesel. Turns out I melted one of several poly lines leading into the tank. He thought it was funny but being former Navy trained I was not happy. I had wanted to pull the bed but he refused to invest the time for safety.
Todays kits like B&W produces have been a game changer with great fit and finish bolt in kit.
My stick welding days are far and few between these days reserved for heavy equipment repair.
Have a great day brother!
 

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2007 Chevrolet 3500 Silverado Classic LWB crew cab,dually, Kennedy dual pumps, , Donaldson filters
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I remember back in the mid to late 80's, I was installing a fifth wheel hitch on a new chevy dually. Those kits back then required a fair amount of cutting and welding. My boss had a huge thermo dynamics plasma with a large torch (too big).
As I was cutting away when I suddenly smelled diesel. Turns out I melted one of several poly lines leading into the tank. He thought it was funny but being former Navy trained I was not happy. I had wanted to pull the bed but he refused to invest the time for safety.
Todays kits like B&W produces have been a game changer with great fit and finish bolt in kit.
My stick welding days are far and few between these days reserved for heavy equipment repair.
Have a great day brother!
Yip like you, not using stick welding much anymore , Mig has made lots of improvements over the years.
Still dont have 100 percent confidence with it for the really heavy equipment repair or fabrication. Just my opinion based on a day or two of experience.

Have a great day today and an awesome weekend. (y) :D

Til later LiL Brother
 
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Discussion Starter · #860 ·
Yip like you, not using stick welding much anymore , Mig has made lots of improvements over the years.
Still dont have 100 percent confidence with it for the really heavy equipment repair or fabrication. Just my opinion based on a day or two of experience.

Have a great day today and an awesome weekend. (y) :D

Til later LiL Brother
I have a bigger Miller 350P that will change you confidence level. I use the Miller 252 most of the time but when I need a heavy hot weld the 350P shines. She also has a spool 30A gun attached and the machine will respond to either trigger pulled. Gun on demand just remember to switch to Argon. :)
 
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