Awesome work. The colors really pop on the house
Thank you!Firestopper, the house looks great!
I don't know if you know this or not as I have yet to hear from anyone, even those in construction, that do know. But stucco is unlike most other exterior finishes (siding, wood siding, etc) in that it is not waterproof at all. And actually is meant to breathe. The waterproofing is in the underlayment house wrap - like brick houses are. Rain and moisture are expected to get under the stucco. Hit the waterproofing house wrap. And then leach back out through the stucco as well as run down the house wrap behind the stucco and exit out the bottom below the stucco. Why this matters is I see it ALL the time, people sealing things to the stucco. It doesn't work that way. I'm not saying you did that at all. I just thought of it while looking over your pics. Cement products, like stucco and grout are not water tight without additive. And stucco on the house is meant to breathe. Lets water and moisture in and lets it back out.
Even if you already knew this, I bet you've met plenty that had no idea.
PS - concrete roof tiles work similarly in that the waterproofing is the tar paper under the tiles that obviously do not block out blowing rain. The cement stucco and tiles protect the waterproofing membranes underneath from the Sun and not from water.
Having moved to the SW from the MW, I was new to stucco. What got me looking into how the system works is after I had a patio cover installed years ago I noticed some strange occurrences. The Alumawood roof for the cover meets the stucco. The installer added flashing at the contact to the house, but the flashing only meets the stucco of the house and then was caulked heavily. I wondered how that was going to keep rain from running down the wall, hitting the flashing and then simply leaching into and behind the stucco. Well, it doesn't. And in all honesty, if I were installing these patio covers in the SW I expect I would have known that as it looks obvious when you realize the stucco is not sealed. My installer obviously did not know that as he wasted his time and money with the flashing.Thank you!
When I built the house in 98, we added brown dye to each stucco batch. This gave the house a sand finish and a very cool look for the first five years. The only thing I did was treat all the parapet walls with a water sealer. As you pointed out, stucco allows for water permutation but also allows moisture to breath and evaporate. The severe monsoon’s each summer bring hard driving rain so I felt sealing the parapets using a bug sprayer and Thompson’s water seal would be beneficial. What kills stucco out hears is the brutal UV leading to stucco failures.
After five years I began to notice how the stucco was wicking water faster than prior years. I then rolled the entire house with one primmer and two coats of elastek. The color was similar to the brown dye used originally.
Elastek is a special elastomeric formulated here in Tucson.
Back in 03 they welcomed DIY’ers, unfortunately they now only deal with roofing contractors and individual painters.
That paint job lasted 19 years until this paint job.
I have a hunch some folks failed to properly prep the stucco before applying elastek. It’s a 100% sealed system so if any moisture finds it’s way in, sever damage occurs and or mold will grow. The acrylic paint formulas most manufacturers use do allow paint to breath. Dunn-Edwards formulated Endurance shield holds up good in the SW desert. A major failure points would be cracked caulking around windows.
Anyway, no offense to any house painters but I hope I never have to do this again.🤣
Thank you sir! I hope you have a great Thanksgiving too. Im heading to the grill next. This is our 25th year of lobster tacos since we don't like three weeks of Turkey leftovers.That's a great tip on using a hole saw
Hope you and your family have a wonderful Thanksgiving!
Dad had that same brake ,how dit it get to ArizonaConductor heads
I want to prevent prolonged splashing from the scuppers so decided to install downspouts on nine scuppers. These same nine scuppers were upgraded to 5" when I re-roofed back in March. The gutter companies must think I fell off the turnip truck because the nine conductor heads and downspouts were quoted at $7K. Outrageous for cheap 24 gauge aluminum heads and generic gutter downspouts. I figure the material they use would cost close to $125 per scupper so why would these crooks expect me to pay over $770 per scupper.
Make my own conductor heads and down spouts.
As many of you know I normally don't draw when designing projects but these did require some table and computer time.
The concept on paper.
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Sides view. Notice the upper right hand portion of the drawing. The house has a taper inward towards the top of the parapet walls so a slight kick was added. All are slightly different since the stucco was hand applied. Each conductor heads will have an assigned number for install.
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The last sketch prior to CAD.
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The CAD program did reveal a slight oversight on my part as the side plates would have been 1.5" too short.
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The main body cut on the plasma table and ready for breaking. The 3-3/4" x 3-3/4" square will accommodate a 14 gauge 4" x 4" down spout. The heads were made from 16 gauge.
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Breaking the 45º on the side plates.
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18 ready for tacking.
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They are turning out pretty good so far.
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Looks like a Supirior box compared to those expensive thin gauge aluminum ones that a humming bird could dent.
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Rinse and repeat 8 more times. The first two on the lower right hand side have straight backs because that parapet wall is taller than the rest.
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On hold as more work has come our way.
Great tip about removing the negative battery terminal, and keeping the welding ground clamp as close as possible to the location of welding. Young neighbors son building a welding bed on his 1 ton Dodge dually did not know the welding ground clamp had fallen on to the exhaust pipe. Fried several of the computers. Waited a long time for Stealership to get it repaired, and no telling how much lighter his wallet is. He gained considerable knowledge.The last pieces to be torqued were the side plates. Bothe of these bolts required fishing and spacers.
Yeah both rear shocks were blown and leaking. It was at this point that I realized this rig had a lift because the distance to bridge the gap for the bags was big. After some research I found some spacers on eBay for $60 shipped from LV.
Ordered on Saturday November 19 and they arrived with yesterday's mail.
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With the hitch completed the bags would have been next but without the spacers I did as much as I could without said spacers. The brake and ABS support bracket was modified. The Milwaukee M12 hack saw worked really nice trimming said bracket.
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The Pro Comp lift utilizes a rear spring spacer with a horn to work with the factory bump stop. These horns will need to go.
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Using adjustable stands, one side was removed at a time to prevent any unwanted shifting to the rear axel.
The band saw did a sweet job of trimming the horn away.
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Back in with full clearance for the bags.
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Checking the angles to determine if level or angled spacers were needed.
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The truck back on the ground with loaded Suspention a measurement was taken to determine the spacers needed.
The number was 10-1/4" so 4" spaces along with the 1" puck spacer they provided will work.
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Officially on hold with the bags I focused on mounting and wiring in the compressor.
Two 1/4-20x 1" bolts were welded 7" apart. I always pull the negative terminal when welding on vehicles. The ground clamp is inches away from the area to be welded.
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After a shot of black enamel to protect the plain bolts, the compressor was bolted in place. Flat washers compressor flat washers followed by nyloc nuts.
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The compressor mounted.
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More to come...
Dad had that same brake ,how dit it get to Arizona
Your cad system much more advanced than mine. I am sure though that my Cardboard Aided Design would have got me close.
Great job as always, my fabrication brother.
The Jensen-Whitney apron brake is from the 40’s.Great tip about removing the negative battery terminal, and keeping the welding ground clamp as close as possible to the location of welding. Young neighbors son building a welding bed on his 1 ton Dodge dually did not know the welding ground clamp had fallen on to the exhaust pipe. Fried several of the computers. Waited a long time for Stealership to get it repaired, and no telling how much lighter his wallet is. He gained considerable knowledge.
Years ago, dads welding shop, always welding and installing trailer hitches. Remember the older vehicles had steel tanks, no auto darkening lenses in the welding hood, strictly stick welding, strike an arc within 1 1/2 of a steel gas tank.The Jensen-Whitney apron brake is from the 40’s.
I’ve owned it since 2003 and has come in handy.
Good old American iron.
I’ve never fried any computers using this practice, but am always uneasy when doing hot work next to a plastic fuel tank like this project. I do form cardboard around to keep those sparks from bouncing into tight places and keep an extinguisher close by.
I hope you had a wonderful Thanksgiving brother.
I remember back in the mid to late 80's, I was installing a fifth wheel hitch on a new chevy dually. Those kits back then required a fair amount of cutting and welding. My boss had a huge thermo dynamics plasma with a large torch (too big).Years ago, dads welding shop, always welding and installing trailer hitches. Remember the older vehicles had steel tanks, no auto darkening lenses in the welding hood, strictly stick welding, strike an arc within 1 1/2 of a steel gas tank.
Dont miss those days.
Keep on keepin on,
Yip like you, not using stick welding much anymore , Mig has made lots of improvements over the years.I remember back in the mid to late 80's, I was installing a fifth wheel hitch on a new chevy dually. Those kits back then required a fair amount of cutting and welding. My boss had a huge thermo dynamics plasma with a large torch (too big).
As I was cutting away when I suddenly smelled diesel. Turns out I melted one of several poly lines leading into the tank. He thought it was funny but being former Navy trained I was not happy. I had wanted to pull the bed but he refused to invest the time for safety.
Todays kits like B&W produces have been a game changer with great fit and finish bolt in kit.
My stick welding days are far and few between these days reserved for heavy equipment repair.
Have a great day brother!
I have a bigger Miller 350P that will change you confidence level. I use the Miller 252 most of the time but when I need a heavy hot weld the 350P shines. She also has a spool 30A gun attached and the machine will respond to either trigger pulled. Gun on demand just remember to switch to Argon.Yip like you, not using stick welding much anymore , Mig has made lots of improvements over the years.
Still dont have 100 percent confidence with it for the really heavy equipment repair or fabrication. Just my opinion based on a day or two of experience.
Have a great day today and an awesome weekend.
Til later LiL Brother