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Discussion Starter · #441 · (Edited)
Throwback Tuesday!
I purchased my first brand new rig in 1985 after separating from the US Navy. It was a 1985 Toyota long bed 4x4 with the last year of the live front axel. I drove this rig for close to ten years until I needed a real work truck.
I lifted it 4" and built a custom bed rack, front bumper, rear bumper, and custom nerf bars (Baja style) today known as sliders.
It wasn't common back then to see custom steel on these rig like today.
I miss this truck. Today these rigs fetch stupid money.
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The front bumper could accommodate a winch but I was too poor to afford one at the time LOL...
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Made from 9" channel, all angles and light holes were cut with a torch. Again too poor to afford a plasma hehehe.
True story....I was poor then.
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The rear bumper was thick wall 2"x3" structural tubing with incorporated hitch.
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Those nerf bars were schedule 40 1.5" pipe doubled up and wider to the rear for rack access.
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I got many compliments on this Toyota. I think it had 160K miles when I sold it for $5k back in 93. The rig new was $12,500 with an interest rate of 18.5%. Remember the 80's how crazy the interest rates were. My first home was 12.5% with 20% down. Todays crybabies don't have a clue what life in the 80's was like. No wonder folks walk away from a mortgage when things get tough, they have no skin in the game with no down payment loans.
Anyway, it was a cool truck and capable off road.
 

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Thank you!
The spare tire utilizes a wheel lock like each tire on the rig. The added pad lock is simply an option allowing to secure the the carrier and the beds access. I used a similar set up on my 2500 rear tire carrier. The main reason I keep my carrier locked at all times is the fact people do nefarious things in parking lots. If a clown was to unlatch the carrier, the first time you hit the accelerator, brakes or turn, severe damage would result from the uncontrolled weight mass. The pad lock is just an option but I use mine 100% of the time.
Nice. Thanks for the explanation. I was thinking about that too - people messing with the latch. I do like the added security of the tailgate being "locked". Just think I'd get tired of the padlock. Maybe not. As is, I already have an involved security routine - lol.

What was the reason for not having the tire under the truck? Too big of tires? Or just like the look?

As always, very nice work (y) I only jump in because you seem like a guy that likes the back & forth of ideas. In no way am I insulting your work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #443 ·
Nice. Thanks for the explanation. I was thinking about that too - people messing with the latch. I do like the added security of the tailgate being "locked". Just think I'd get tired of the padlock. Maybe not. As is, I already have an involved security routine - lol.

What was the reason for not having the tire under the truck? Too big of tires? Or just like the look?

As always, very nice work (y) I only jump in because you seem like a guy that likes the back & forth of ideas. In no way am I insulting your work.
No worries,
Ask any questions, I'm happy to explain the best I can.
I think the tire might have fit under the bed but the customer requested a tire carrier.
The pad lock is just an option for him. He can run without it anytime he's chooses to. I just like to provide options based on my view of "what if's". The lock tabs are clean and unnoticeable and much easier to include than to add later after the fact.
Jump in any time you like, I'm always open to other views.
 

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Discussion Starter · #444 ·
Not a fabrication or machining post but still a fun project.
I purchased this FXSTSB Bad Boy new in 1995. It's been in storage since 2012.
The tanks were pulled and inspected. All fuel lines, oil lines replaced and carb flushed. The engine oil had all drain into the case so I pulled the plugs and treated the cylinders to Marvel mystery oil and let sit. With a new battery in, I began to crank the starter with the oil return line coming off the oil cooler to pump out the case keeping an eye on the oil level. Once I got fresh oil out from said return line I knew all the older oil was pushed out. I also flushed both front and rear brake fluid with DOT 5. The tires were brand new at the time of storage but 9 years old now. The bike was stored in absence of sunlight so no checking, cracking noticed. With fresh fuel and the carb adjusted the bike was ran for 20-30 minutes then the oil was changed again at normal operating temp.

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The bad boy sports a Springer front end and were only produced for 3 years. This bike only has 19K miles.
The engine was pulled when the bike only had 5K miles and was treated to larger pistons, port/polished heads, new cam, ignition, carburetor, exhaust, and carlini torque arm. The factory HP was 55 @ 5000 RPM, after the engine work the Dynamometer indicated 98 HP. Nothing compared to the rice rockets but she would pull nicely on the highway.
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Ready for the open road again.
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I took her to Tombstone for a casual ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #445 · (Edited)
This project was done 6 week post surgery to my right knee. The same knee that I'm going in for on June 15th for a partial replacement.
The material used for this project was 14ga .x 2"x 3".
A 12' slide gate and a 53" wide man gate.
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The start of the slider. Here the V-grooved wheel boxes are being welded in.
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Using a length to clamp the five pieces together to maintain straightness. Shims were used as the boxes were slightly taller and wider than the parent steel.
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With the frame only tacked together, the other pieces were also tacked in. I would normally weld the frame first but there was too much going on with this design. The mitered corners joints were tight but I planned on leaving all welds exposed or not ground smooth.
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The weight increased in short order.
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One of two V-grove wheel boxes.
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Time to flip and weld the other side.
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Burned in.
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Taking a break from the heavier slide gate, I focused on the pedestrian gate.
Here I'm welding in a pair of heavy duty greaseable hinges.
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A close up.
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More to follow...
 

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Discussion Starter · #446 · (Edited)
At this point of the gate job, I had a "rush" job come in.
A customer had a new 12,500 CFM evaporative cooler delivered to my location. The plan was for me to assemble the two wet sections and coat with 100% silicone, then build a ground mount stand 12" high.

Wet sections assembled and motor installed.
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The white you see is two thick coats of silicone over the substandard coat the manufacturer provides (one of two).
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I also modified the forward overflow with a 90º ball valve to allow for draining without having to access the inside of the cabinet. I have the exact cooler in my shop and drain and refill the water every couple of weeks.
Finishing the assembly.
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It was time to build the ground mount stand. I used 1/4" x 2"x 2" angle iron. All cutting and notching was performed on the Iron worker.
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The legs were next. The stand is upside down for this.
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Time for a test fit prior to painting.
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The fork lift was rigged to hoist the cooler using the four lift eyes.
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Fits nice.
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An end view.
The stand was removed cleaned and primed and painted black.
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Delivered and sitting in place awaiting the updraft ductwork.
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This is a new construction. The metal building is 20'x60'x100' and has 2500 sf two story home inside.
They call this set up a "Barndominium".
Not sure why some photos turned out flipped after posting but you get the picture.
Now back to the gates.
 

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Discussion Starter · #447 · (Edited)
The sliding gate still needed a track, a latch, a guide post, and angle iron guide. The latch with the capability of using a lock is required.
I designed the latch and drew it on the table at full scale to visualize its overall function.
The Iron worker was used to cut, punch and slightly bend two guide ears.
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Should work in theory. The nesting bracket was made 1/8" over 2" width of the frame.
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The finished nesting bracket. The locking pin in place.
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Another angle with pin out.
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Ready for prime and paint. A corner weld provided ample penetration allowing for a clean inside corner.
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The track was made from 1/8" x 1" x 1" angle iron. A 5/16" solid rod was used as a line up dowel eliminating the need to field weld the two.
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The dowel does a nice job of lining up the two sections.
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The two sections look to be one.
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The guide or pinch roller is made from 1"solid square bar with two precise holes drilled. The correct distanced holes allow for two precision bearings to guide the sliding gate by pinching a section of angle iron welded the length of the gate. The angle iron ends are capped and act as stops. The pinch roller will be field welded to a post and also keeps gate plumb.
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More to follow...
 

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Discussion Starter · #448 · (Edited)
With the gates being so heavy, I decided to paint them in the filed. Loading them was easy with the fork lift but at the job site I wold not have the advantage of a fork lift. Considering this, it just made sense to paint then within close proximity to were they will be installed minimizing any damage to the finish from handling.

The client had several clean 55 gallon drums available to support the gates while priming and painting. The client also provided the paint to match the same color already used throughout his property. The paint was an industrial quality sold by Dunn-Edwards. Both primer and paint were water based. I have never considered using a water base paint so this was a first for me. The primer looked like milk when reduced with water. It dried clear so I had to pay close attention not to overspray too thick. The paint covered well and laid down fine. I was impressed with this product and will consider using it moving forward. It pricy at 80/gal but considering no added cost for reducers and cleans up with water.

Here's the set up. It took four of us to unload and flip the slider. The smaller pedestrian gate was heavy as well.
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This is the post that will support the sliding gate.
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The smaller pedestrian gates hinge post was set up to be removable due to the weight (for hanging).
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The pinch roller was welded using my 30 year old Lincoln 110V flux core machine. Here you can see how it engages to the 3/16"x 2"x 2" angle iron.
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The pedestrian gates hinge post was mounted first then the gate was guided over the stout hinge pins. This made it super easy to hang the gate. The strike post was mounted last. Wedge anchors worked well as the columns were 100% grouted. The gate swing with a smooth action.

A dab of grease was shot into the zerk fittings.
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The nesting bracket worked perfectly. The locking pin will work well to secure the gate.
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The gate in the closed position. The post and pinch rollers keep the gate plumb throughout its travel.
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Another shot of the pinch roller after touch up.
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A view from the outside the yard.
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I use the same rolling guide system on automated slide gates.
Here's video of the gate in action. Pay attention on the nesting feature as I push the gate closed from 12' away.

Another fun project despite my back complaining for the rest of the month.
Not sure why the photos are flipped after posting.
 

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Not sure why the photos are flipped after posting.
It is the forum software formatting the pics to the thread.
The Software has to jumble the pics according to size to make it fit..
 
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THAT is one sturdy, beefy gate! Very nice.

Quick question for ya.... When Trump was entertaining border walls and settled on the bollard style, I always thought they should be filled with concrete after setting so to reduce being cut through. All meaningless now, but do you think that woulda worked since now a torch alone would not work and a very expensive demo saw would now require two kinds of blades, one very expensive?

I also liked this idea most as it's modular and cookie cutter like Legos. Relatively cheap to make out west. Weatherproof and bore through proof. Set on a deep footing with steel plates or razor wire or some other obstruction at the top to stop from climbing. Just asking you here since you have to be an ideas man with what you do.
643441
 

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Discussion Starter · #451 ·
It is the forum software formatting the pics to the thread.
The Software has to jumble the pics according to size to make it fit..
Thanks for the reply. Is there any way for me to correct it? I use my iPhone for all pictures and never mess with the settings.
 

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Thanks for the reply. Is there any way for me to correct it? I use my iPhone for all pictures and never mess with the settings.
You can "Preview" the post before posting to see if the pics rotate.
I think you have to resize the photo down just a bit to get the photo software to line everything up, not quite sure about this new setup but I will ask our techs and see what input they have to offer (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #453 ·
THAT is one sturdy, beefy gate! Very nice.

Quick question for ya.... When Trump was entertaining border walls and settled on the bollard style, I always thought they should be filled with concrete after setting so to reduce being cut through. All meaningless now, but do you think that woulda worked since now a torch alone would not work and a very expensive demo saw would now require two kinds of blades, one very expensive?

I also liked this idea most as it's modular and cookie cutter like Legos. Relatively cheap to make out west. Weatherproof and bore through proof. Set on a deep footing with steel plates or razor wire or some other obstruction at the top to stop from climbing. Just asking you here since you have to be an ideas man with what you do.
View attachment 643441
Yes, the design made it extremely stout.

Not sure on the boarder wall construction. Anything can be penetrated or they just tunnel under. Arizona and Komifornia have exposed several elaborate tunnel systems in recent years. Unmanned towers every 100 yards with lethal force would work tho:ROFLMAO:
 

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Discussion Starter · #454 ·
You can "Preview" the post before posting to see if the pics rotate.
I think you have to resize the photo down just a bit to get the photo software to line everything up, not quite sure about this new setup but I will ask our techs and see what input they have to offer (y)
Ok, thank you.
Don't want to create any work for anyone else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #456 ·
The techs just shared some info that it is Iphone related. (y)
Thank you for looking into this issue. I'm not well versed in computer work so it can be frustrating at best.
I have a pretty good hunch it's due to the newest update pushed by Apple. I went from Catalina to Big Sur. All worked fine prior to the update with no settings change by my hand.
I will try what they suggest in the links you shared.
Again, Thank you sir!
 

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Discussion Starter · #457 ·
The techs just shared some info that it is Iphone related. (y)
So what I found on the photo issues was the last time I updated my iPhone it reset my camera settings to HEIF vs JPEG. What I had to do was select all the photos that had been taken since the update (160) and export them. Once they were exported I had to import them in a JPEG format. Now I had duplicate photos, One in HEIF and one in JPEG.
I then selected all the HEIF formatted photos and deleted them keeping only the newly imported JPEG photos.
Then I used the edit feature on this web site and reposted using the correct formatted photos.
Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #458 ·
Still posting on previous projects but were caught up through March 2021.
This was a modification to an axel for a "big wheel" used in remote wilderness rescue. Tucson fire purchased a new Titanium (Ti) stokes basket that breaks down into two pieces allowing rescuers to carry separate pieces. The problem is the new Stokes litter is too wide for the the big wheel.
I was hired to make it work.
A piece of 0.750" tool steel was selected and cut to length.
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The old axel (top) and the soon to be axel is 4"longer.
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First order of business is to turn down the ends and cut new threads. The 5C chuck and collet is a perfect application for this.
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The nut fits as it should.
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Rinse and repeat for the other end. Using a high speed tool steel bit (HSS), I ground it to create a narrow grooving tool for the C-clips.
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The C-clip grooves were off set to accommodate for the wheels rim offset.
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The new axel is complete. Here you can see the grooves off set.
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The big wheel is attached using the wider axel. The other modification was to extend the 3/8-16 all thread for the clamp feature.
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The Stainless all thread was secured to the hand knob using red lock-tite.
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A couple more shots of the Stokes to follow.
 

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So what I found on the photo issues was the last time I updated my iPhone it reset my camera settings to HEIF vs JPEG. What I had to do was select all the photos that had been taken since the update (160) and export them. Once they were exported I had to import them in a JPEG format. Now I had duplicate photos, One in HEIF and one in JPEG.
I then selected all the HEIF formatted photos and deleted them keeping only the newly imported JPEG photos.
Then I used the edit feature on this web site and reposted using the correct formatted photos.
Thank you!
Ouch.. That's a lot of work just because of an iPhone update!
Glad you have it sorted out and running properly again
(y)
 
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Discussion Starter · #460 ·
The Ti stokes weighs less than 7 pounds or 3.5 pounds per half. This also has lift eyes rated for help rescue work.
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The three components would be carried by three individuals. The big wheel weighs the most at 25 pounds.
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A quick job.
 
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