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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Back in 2013 I decided to build a detached shop next to my home. For 15 years I had been working out of an attached 26'X50" but it seemed I had acquired too many machines and quickly found myself unable to park any rigs inside. Living in the SW desert of Arizona, I was at full time war with packrats and the harsh UV rays of the sun. I wanted something large enough to address it all. My old shop had a large Band saw, cold saw, lathe, mill, pipe bender, CNC 5'x10' plasma table, several tool boxes, a compliment of miller welders, 51Ton iron worker and a 4'x12' jig table just to name a few. Needless to say all automotive work was preformed outside.

A last look of the old shop.
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After pulling a large Palo Verde tree and relocating a 40' sea container I was ready to layout the new pad.
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Forming and importing dirt as well as laying out all the anchor bolts for the 10 columns.
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The night before the 3am pour.
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The foundation was poured in mid July with temps averaging 105º.
A 44 meter pump truck kept the flow coming. I had hired eight finishers for the day myself included.
The fella at the drivers side outrigger at the pump is 6'3" so it gives you an idea of the size of the pump rig.
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The power finisher doing its magic.
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Finished up around noon for a 9 hour day. I kept the water on for 7 days to counter the hot days.
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Another shot from the NW corner. You can see the 1.5" notch around the perimeter. This will secure a 3" base flange with the skins over it to keep water out. The hose entering the slab is a "man door" location. The west end will have
two 10' x 12' garage doors. the NE side will have a 10'X 12' rollup door (2 post lift), and the SE end will have a 10'X12'
garage door aligned up to the one of the West doors for a drive through option.
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About a week later the delivery from El Paso arrived with the kit I purchased through Mueller inc. They were great to deal with every step of the way. The provided all the engineering to satisfy my county. The only thing I had to source was a foundation with an engineering stamp for all the steel in the piers and footers.
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Between the drivers crab style fork lift and my Hyster, we made short work of staging the "red iron".
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
During one of my six day breaks, with the help of a neighbor and two other Buddys, we had all the red iron up and plumbed.

The bay with the Z purlins has the diagonal cables that provide the shear on the entire building prior to skinning.
This was the first phase in squaring the building.
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The X bracing the cables provide is crucial in squaring and adding rigidity.
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I had owned that fork lift for a few years at this point but it really saved me serious money by erecting this building myself.
No way I could have done it without the Hyster. Notice the cab cover I had made to protect from the UV's. The dash and seat would only last two summer seasons without the cover. Now your getting why a 3200 sf shop.

Looking to the West with a monsoon storm approaching.
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Looking to the East after a six day work break.
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I had loaded all the skins onto my 20' trailer. This not only kept the skins off the ground but allowed me to stage the skins to the area I was working.
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A shot of the Z purlins and bracing.
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Sun set.
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With the red iron up it was time to focus on more concrete work. I added to the rear door of the old shop extending
6' past the end of the new building for a wash rack. I also set plate anchors to weld up a future awning.
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The end of the wash rack turns right into a 6' sidewalk for the East end of the building. This will come in handy
for the future Swampzilla.
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I still had a fair amount of concrete work and for that reason I had put off installing the skins. I didn't want dents,
or concrete splashed on the skins finish.
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
With the wash rack formed up, tamped and re-mish set, we were close to pouring the next 20 yards.
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The pour went fine and turned out great. This was done by three of us.
This is the East end that will serve as a 6' sidewalk and foundation for a large evaporative cooler.
The sidewalk has a 2" pitch away from the building.
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The North side of the building shows the rest of the wash rack as you look to the West.
The old shop has an 18' garage door at both ends making it convenient to pull a vehicle out through the East and turn into the Maintanace/repair bay of the new shop.
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looking to the SW.
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Next up was designing a drain system to route heavy water from the house scuppers. I designed a French drain with an independent leach field. The leach field consist of 70' trench 5' deep with perforated pipe on a 2' base of 1"rock. The
4" perf pipe was covered with 6"of the same rock and backfilled with dirt. The perforation holes were pointed down to keep dirt from fowling the drain.

The same 1.5" x 1.5" tubbing was used to create a notch for the steel grating to rest in.
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The drain runs the entire width of the West end. During Monsoons, we get serious down pours that result in a ton of water coming off the house scuppers that could easily overwhelm a grade without a dedicated drain.
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This portion took 5.5 yards averaging 10" thick. I wanted to ensure the 9K pound fork lift could travel over the French Drain.
A look to the North and you can see three scuppers coming off the old shop/house.
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Prior to stripping the forms.
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Forms stripped and ready to pour the drain floor section. I used my 3 bag mixer and 18 90# bags of concreate to pour this portion. A string line was followed with a 3" pitch in 40'.
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All done and ready for measuring up for the steel grating.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The steel grating was ordered to size and fit well. The southern most end got a small section of grating making it easier to pull off to clean the strainer.
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Looking to the East.
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The side skins went up fairly easy with just two of us working. I had stacked about 1/2" thick worth of sheets and pre drilled the stack. This ensured the Tek screws where centered on the purlins and a straight line of screws looking from the outside.
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All the opening had to be cut by hand. I used an electric shear, it work great despite the ribs.
This door opening will be the Automotive bay that will utilize a rollup door. The rollup door is a great option when installing a 2-post lift.
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The red iron that contacts the skins were treated with a 1/8" thick X 2" wide neoprene insulator type tape. I wanted to prevent any condensation at the contact points since I didn't use the cheaper insulation Muller sold me with the building. They actually gave me a full refund since I decided to go a different route with insulation.
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Hard to see but the screws are nice and straight as a result of gang drilling them first.
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Getting closer.
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The East end door lines up with one of the West end doors.
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Looking a bit like a warehouse. The home made man lift platform on the fork lift sure made it safer.
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The start of the roof. Myself and a buddy were the only ones walking on the roof. I had two guys on the ground
prepping the sheets and sending them up with the fork lift. The man lift platform worked well for this by resting the sheets on top of the hand rail. Each 20' sheet got a strip of sealant along the overlapping joint.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Skinning the roof took about two weeks as the winds up here can get intense. We were still in monsoon season so it wasn't uncommon to shut down due to lightning rain and wind.

This is one of two vents I opted to go with. It proved to be a good choice when heavy welding or machining create a smoky haze. Pop open a vent or two and use positive pressure to push out the haze.
If you look closely you can see two green string lines. This was our guide when setting the roof skins. You can also see the amount of screws used on each Z Purlin.
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Another Monsoon afternoon. You can see the top of one vent. It's designed to keep rain and birds out. I get an occasional bee or wasp bit nothing to worry about.
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All the trim complete and ready for the doors.
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Somewhat dried in. Looking West
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Looking East.
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It was time to pull the 200 amp feeders. Back in 98 when I built the house I used a 400 amp service panel. At the time I never dreamed I would have a detached shop but knew I would use plenty of juice.

I built brackets that screwed into the Purlins to set the 200 amp panel. The stubs coming from the floor are Electric and H2O. If you notice the added base angle anchored to the floor. This will create an 8" space for insulation and also provide a place to screw down the 3/4" BC plywood later. It lines up with the faces of the two Purlins.
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A close up of the panel brackets.
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With some power to the shop, it was time to hang garage doors.
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The three garage doors use a Liftmaster 3800 with soft start/stop and electric bolt. The motors are jack shaft and keep the ceiling free of any chain track. The doors I went with are insulated commercial grade. The fourth and only rollup
door is also insulated and made by Janus. Now we're dried in!
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was now ready for the electrical phase of the build. I used just over a mile of wire to complete all circuits. The Purlins provided an excellent platform to run and secure wires.
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Heading up for the overhead circuits. Three way switches were used to control the lights from either end of the shop.
Each bay is also on its own lighting circuit so no need to have all the light on. Also next to the man door are the pump and motor switches for the cooler.
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With the T-5 fixtures in service, the bays have ample light. An extra fixture was added to the fabrication bay and to the machine shop bay. Each fixture puts out 33K lumen and there's a total of 18. I also added overhead reels each on it's own circuit. At the time LED were too costly and even the T-5 ran a decent coin. If you look high on the third horizontal Purlin, you can see receptacles. These are on independent switches and are there for neon vintage signs (someday).
They compliment both sides of the shop and ends. I purchase commercial cases of electrical boxes and spools of wire so I wanted to use as much of it as possible.
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A shot of the rollup door in the proposed auto bay. More three way switches for the bay lighting.
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Looking to the West.
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Each door got a double LED outdoor fixture by Rebb.
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Couple of overhead circuits. All the light fixtures got a receptacle box and cord cap vs hard wire. This will make it easier to unplug and repair the fixture on the Bench vs overhead. It will also make it easier when I upgrade to LED fixtures.
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Any wires that penetrate a purlin got a plastic bushing.
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This is the finished panel. I only have two spare breakers at this point.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So with having power and also being dried in, my first job and priority was to refurbish a pair of Klipsch Cornwall from 1982. I have been an audiophile from a young age and serving overseas made collecting easier.
First up, custom speaker cabinet brackets made from 2" angle and chain. They will sit 38' apart and 8' up at the East end of the shop.
Left side.
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Right side.
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Next phase is insulation. I used R-30 on ceiling and walls. The EcoBatt is 10" thick stuffed into an 8" space. It's
covered in white scrim sheet and wired in every 16" using pound in clips into the red iron. A commercial type application.
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The acoustics after the insulation made for a great sounding sound system.
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All done and waiting for plywood. the walls will consist of 3/4" BC plywood standing on edge to create an 8' wall.
This will allow for anchoring whatever I want and also protect the lower portion of the walls.
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Tape and texture the plywood walls. I purchased a "Bunk" (pallet) of plywood vs individual sheets. By doing this I payed $32/sheet vs $38/sheet. I ended up with three extra sheets but saved some dough.
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The sheets were hung in a single with the help of a buddy. He measured the electrical box hight and I laid them out and cut accordingly.
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Time for texture and prime.
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With the texture and prime done, its looking like a shop.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Some detailed work on the Klipsch Cornwalls. I had to refinish the cabinets (real wood), replace the capacitors on the crossovers, and replace the grill fabric to original specs. I also had to source a missing copper badge.

The crossovers original capacitors were those large metal wet type (the best). The top one was modified with the ribbon type. The lower crossover was on deck.
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A schematic I came up with before any modifications were made. The old caps looked good but at over 32 years old
I thought its best to replace them.
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This is the Fallout Shelters sound system. An SAE rack system with all consecutive serial numbers. The SAE system was a trade I did for a AR-15 build I was commissioned to do. The fella once had a high end stereo shop in the 80's and had a fair amount of equipment NIB. My system was in such boxes with original plastic, foam, and original paperwork.
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With the shop tunes working it was time to finish the paint scheme. I decided to start with the area with the most switches. The black line is 10" wide and does a great job of hiding paw prints when using the switches.
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The blue line breaks up the the white and adds a nice touch. Yes I'm anal, I masked off the back of the I-beams to continue the paint theme.
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Once I finished the walls, it became obvious I had to carry the same paint theme to the doors.
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Green frog tape does a great job with crisp lines but I used a method of painting the tape with the base color to seal off the line followed up with the different color. Once you're done you pull the tape before the paint dries leaving crisp lines.
Here you can see the assembled Swampzilla cooler in front of the fork lift.
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Getting close.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Next up was designing a duct system for the cooler. I wanted to use spiral oval ducting to preserve as much ceiling hight as possible. A buddy's dad helped with the scheduling using HVAC formulas. Before I could install the ductwork I had to come up with a robust penetration into the building. I used 1/8" X 2" X 2" angle iron. The idea was to make two frames that matched the R-panel profile both inside and out. The inside frame would be welded to the red iron and have four capture nuts welded allowing me to assemble the outside frame without the help of anyone else. I was pretty much working alone after the electrical phase so this went into designing the frames.
The cooler stand was also built with the rear legs slightly longer than the front to off set the 2" pitch in the concrete sidewalk. I wanted to keep the cooler as close to the ground as possible for maintenance reasons.
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The ductwork was staged. I ended up using aircraft cable to support the sections of duct.
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The CNC Mill followed me home this day. I had to make the shop budget work with the purchase of the Mill but
It wasn't too difficult as I had done most of the work myself and only paid the concrete finishers. Everyone else who helped had basically re-payed from me helping them along the way so I could spend some on a new to me Mill.
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The fork lift saved the day again along with the man lift to support the sections while it got attached and supported with cables. As each section was installed, I crawled into each section to apply HVAC joint compound on the inside joints keeping the outside clean. The last section was too small so clear silicone sealant was used. I like the way it looks with the cable supporting the system. Almost as if it's floating.
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A different angle.
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Looking straight out the back.
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Swampzilla sitting in her stand with the updraft ductwork.
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A cool view, I think anyway.
You can see the exterior penetration frame supporting the exterior ductwork eliminating the need for intermediate bracing. The large elbow has turbinators to help with laminar flow theory.
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The overall design achieves a 30-32º pulldown during hot dry summers. 105º outside = 72-75º inside.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Peek-a-boo! A shot inside one of the sections.
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Now that we have some cooler conditions it was time to run the shop air system. I designed a loop sytem to prevent any pressure drops in the event a friend is using air while I'm plasma cutting on the CNC table. I went with Rapidair ridged 1" pipe. Its made from aluminum and is finished in blue powder coat. The fittings are nylon compression style and rated at 195psi.
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I made some trapeze style hangers to suppler the water and air lines.
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On the side of the shop that didn't have water the airline was supported by a dedicated loop hanger found in supporting sprinkler system piping.
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I used my Ercolina bender to put in a 15º bent for the roof crown.
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This is the SE end of the shop were the compressor will live. I ran a 28' pre-cooling line to help bring down the temp before it goes into a refrigeration cooler. This will prevent any condensation from forming in the air system. It also has two auto dump prior to the cooler and three separate moistures dumps in the refrigeration cooler itself. The compressor has ben plumbed with a timer and auto dump that dumps moisture out through the shop wall to keep things quiet. The timer is adjustable in dump frequency and duration.
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The bypass manifold allows me to use the compressor without the refrigeration's unit when not plasma cutting.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
With the air system behind me, it was time to focus on the floors. At this point I was just under two years since starting this build and I was looking forward to moving in equipment. The floors had heavy marks from the fork lift and other stains from the building process. I rented a floor scrubber and purchased aggressive pads as well as finishing pads. The equipment that was in the building was all moved into 1/2 of the space. The floor process took a full six days to get to where I wanted. A lot of mopping and mopping and mopping...
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What I didn't mention is the nasty Xylene base floor sealer I used. It required a respirator and a lot of ventilation.
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Sika self leveling caulk was used to seal up the saw cuts.
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The shine was nice but the reason for sealing is more important than looks. It makes it easier to wipe up spills but mostly keeps the concrete from emitting dust as it wares. I rolled two heavy coats using a 18" roller with 1" nap.
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After the sealant was cured and the self leveling sealant applied, I installed 6" mop board to the base of the interior walls. This made for a super clean finish and a breeze to mop without making a mess of the walls.

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Like most concrete, I got some cracks but no heaving so that a plus.
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The original NOS Fallout Shelter sign was sourced online and it was a must for me to have. It has the original reflective finish like the ones back in the Cold War era.
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
With the floors done it was time to start staging machines. Each machine was cleaned and serviced prior to staging.
The largest machine in terms of footprint is the CNC Plasma table. I dedicated the NW garage door strictly for this machine as I would need access with the fork lift to load full sheets.
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I then found a nice SS sink on Ebay complete with legs. The sink was advertised as new but they indicated it was bent from rough shipping handling. I took a chance as it was cheap including shipping from PA.
After it arrived I assessed the damage and was able to tweak everything back to like new. I decided not to use the four legs as I thought they would hinder with sweeping/mopping. I built a support bracket and mounted it to the plywood wall. I made it strong enough to support a decent load.
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I don't have hot water in this building as my old shop has a full bathroom and shower. I can always add a 110 V heater
in the future so I plumbed in the second line. I also found a new faucet and eyewash attachment on Ebay.
Mocking up the sink for the drain penetration.
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All done! The top SS shelf came out of a firehouse kitchen back in 2005, I hung onto it for years until the right moment.:) I made a simple bracket that allows the shelf to snap in.
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The next two machines I brought in after cleaning and servicing were a Dake-Johnson V-40 band saw and a New Dimention (N.D.) plate roller. At this point, I still hadn't ran any 3 phase power so staging was important to long term satisfaction of machine placement.
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Other equipment on wheels were also cleaned and moved in.
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On the plate roller. It was purchased by NASA back in 1998. I found out the history after contacting the manufacture to purchase a schematic. The machine had a 440 3ph VFD and I really didn't want to use a transformer to up my 240vac 3 ph power. I decided to rewire the unit with the help of a friend.

Look at the factory bird nest wiring, messy to say the least. Also notice the rather large VFD to the left. The hour meter above the electrical cabinet indicated 10 hours when I punched the machine at action. The paint on the gears and chain confirmed the low hours.
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After re-wiring both the motors to 240 I was ready to design a new control system. BTW, this is the factory schematic sent to me by N.D. Unreal a company would sell you this for $60.
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After drawing up a new schematic, the machine got a new low voltage system to include an E-stop, and pilot light.
Compared to the factory wiring, I'd say our work is cleaner and better designed.
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The new smaller VFD was "auto tuned" using a laptop plugged into the USB on the Hitachi unit. The large
brake resistor below the new VFD also allows the machines drive motor to brake instantly.
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More to follow...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
A little more on the ND roller.
The added control features.
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The Auto tuning runs a series of tests to the motor and changes certain parameters of the VFD.
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And finally the new schematic.
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With the plate roller complete it was time to move more equipment in.
This is a scotchman 51-I iron worker. Its an invaluable machine for fabrication. It shears up to 14" widwide, shears angle iron up to 3/8" X 5"X 5", notches, punches and bends up to 1/4' X 12" flat strap.
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Another Scotchman moved in is this semi auto cold saw. I rarely use this saw but it comes in very useful when designing and building jigs/fixtures. It does use coolant but it's really a milling process that leaves a true flat finish without burrs. It require clean dry air that feeds and returns after a cut. The vise is also pneumatic.
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The next piece of equipment was purchased through a group buy on another forum. I went with a Bend-Pac
Asymmetrical low profile 10K lift. I own a couple of low profile cars and I didn't want to preJack prior to lifting. I also installed the lift in a wide configuration to allow my 2500 HD doors to open more. The install went well with the help of the fork lift.
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I was pleased no shimming required to achieve level.
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After wiring the lift and filling the reservoir with close to 3 gallons, I realized a weak design by Bend-Pac.
It seems the entire load of the hydraulic fluid is held on by four small cap screws. The reservoir is also made of plastic.
I could see bumping into the reservoir and breaking off with close to 3 gallons of fluid on the floor.
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More to follow...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The new bracket is a simple solution.
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The broken sides provide bump protection to the reservoir.
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After staging more machine I was satisfied with placement so 3 phase wire was pulled through conduit and receptacle installed. A couple of machine have ceiling drops as they are located away from a wall.
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My good friend and neighbor used to install security gates on military bases and ended up with this traffic signal (NIB).
He had heard me mention I needed a pilot light to help me remember to turn off the auto dump feature on the air compressor. I wired in the new signal and mounted above the the compressor. Now at a glance I can see if the system is on when shutting down at the end of the day.
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Back to the 3 phase Rotery Phase Converter (RPC) that powers nine machines.
I built a bracket to support the 7.5 hp idler motor and used isolators to prevent any resonance.
Its a self starting (push button) system that is balanced within 5% between the three power legs. The machines run smoothly and don't mind the generated wild leg of juice. I can run as many machines at once so long a they are started one at a time. This system also requires a pilot light as it's extremely quiet. Many phase generators sold in the market are too dang noisy and have given the RPC a bad name. One can use a VFD to convert single phase to 3 but it gets pricy to buy a VFD per machine. I do run two VFD's (Roller and Lathe) but they are used to convert the control system to low voltage and enhance fine controls.
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Another machine cleaned and serviced. This is an Italian made profile roller. I can roll different material including flat bar on edge. It features a digital readout for repeatable bends. The smaller unit to the left is a pipe/tube bender that bends with a mandrel like finish. It's made by Ercolina and also comes from Italy. It features repeatable bends and also takes into account spring back. Digital controls as well.
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With the final concert pour looming I wanted to set some Ballards to protect the building from customers or friends dropping off trailers for me to repair. I used 1/4"x 6" pipe and set them in the ground 3'.
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Nice and lined up.
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The one in the East end.
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More to come...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
With the final pour done (20 yards) all concert work is complete. In total we poured close to 155 yards for the new shop.
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On the existing apron, I drilled and epoxied in some #5 rebar.
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A day later I sawed some control joints.
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By now with close to two years building the shop, many return clients had been asking for my services. The list had grown so I needed to knock some work out. I'm a full-time firefighter paramedic but still mange to work 50 hour weeks during work tours and 70 hour work weeks while on my 6 day break from fire work.

I would like to keep this shop build going even with the major shop build done. I would like to add to this forum with projects built in the new shop. The first paying job was to build a 14K pound dump trailer. The customer provided the axels and tires. I built the rest.
The frame consists of 6" channel. All welding was done with a Miller P-350 in pulse mode.

Here you can see the frame is upside down for all welding in this position to include the spring hangers.
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With a rolling frame, it was time to design the dump bed section to include the scissor bracket assembly.
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A tongue box was added for the hydraulic pump, battery and battery charger. The hydraulic lines are routed along the drivers side frame and 5/16" round bar was used to secure the lines. These lines will serge a bit so I wanted freedom od movement without the possibility of chaffing.
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Locating and leveling.
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A test run without the bed.
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Looking good to move on.
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A shot of the pump, battery mounted in the tongue box. The passengers side of the tongue box had a male plug receptacle installed for the onboard battery charger.
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More to follow...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The lines that penetrate the frame are protected by the same round bar used to secure the lines along the frame.
A soft edge prevents chaffing.
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The Miller P-350 really does a nice job on heavier material. Almost no splatter in pulse mode.
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The bed and fenders welded in it was time for paint.
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A little out of order but the main frame was painted prior to the box being placed. This allowed me to get the nooks and crannies shot. I used industrial direct to metal (DTM) from Sherwin-Williams. Yes the rear axel eventually got electric brakes upon my insisting.
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I like to use junction boxes (color coded ) for the customers to be able to troubleshoot any lighting issues. All lights used were LED.
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Ready for safety stickers and wood.
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The stickers are provided when you purchase a kit.
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A break away wired into the pump battery will lock up the brakes in the event of separation.
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A test drive empty at 80 MPH she pulled straight with zero side to side drift.
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At full dump.
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Next up more shop improvement projects.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Another job waiting was a custom rail with 3/8" tempered glass. The job required a couple of trips to ensure a good fit and the end result was just that. I also ended up finishing the floor tile as the customer could not get a floor guy to finish a few pieces of tile.
The rail was made from 14 ga. X 1.5"x 1.5" square tubing. The glass clamps were SS and secured with a nutsert using a 5/16-18 SS cap screw. The tempered glass was ordered to fit with polished edges. The paint was a Rust-o-lium Copper Hammertone cut with Xylene to spray using an HVLP chepo gun I've had for 25 years.

The Ellis 1800 band saw does a nice job on those miter cuts.
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90º miter fit. A slight gap allows for good burn in when grinding smooth.
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Drilling for the nutserts.
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5/16"-18 nutsert.
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The SS glass clamp fit up (1/2 of it).
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Shooting the Hammertone.
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Smooth finish after grinding the weld. Remember to gap your joint or you'll grind away the weld.
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The finished miter and 1/2 the glass clamps installed.
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Installed at the customers dining room.
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Looking from the dining area.
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The tile was done a week later to complete this job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Another job came in from California. The customer wanted his new Acra Mill fitted with a power drawbar and a custom rolling base with levelers. It was paramount to keep the machine as close to the floor as possible to keep the controls within a reasonable reach. The material selected for the stand was 3/8" x 4" x 4" angle. The leveling brackets were cut from 5/16"x 3" x 3" structural tubing. The threaded bushings where turned and power tapped on the lathe. All the coping/notching was done on the iron worker. The caster brackets were made from 1/2" x 4" CR steel and drilled then broken on the iron worker using the brake press.

The new arrival from Rancho Cucamonga Ca.
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At 3500 pounds the Hyster had no issues.
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Removing the plastic, cosmoline, and a detailed inspection. The speed control has a digital readout and utilizes a VFD for fine speed control.
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The fit and finish is over the top. This machine is sold by Acra and comes from Taiwan.
Taiwan is known for excellent machines and now many well known American names come from there.
I wish it were different but that what our politicians have done to us.
Look at the frosting on the table. The machine scraping looks beautiful!
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The torque rite power draw bar install required a little custom machined spacer to achieve the perfect grip length.
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The pneumatic control switch installed.
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Lastly the air regulator and oiler drill/tapped to the rear.
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The base frame is notched on the iron worker.
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This type of notch is important vs a traditional 45º miter for this application. What you end up with is double the weld length for a stronger joint. This rolling base is dynamic when the machine is moving so no tweaking is encouraged with a notched joint.
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The rear section is drilled using an Annular cutter for access to the coolant base drain. This was done prior to welding the frame together for obvious reasons.
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Max photo limit...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
With the frame welded it was time to make a transfer punch that would fit snuggly into the Mills base mounting holes.
The punch was use to mark the centers for drilling and tapping for the anchor bolts.
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The punch being turned.
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The castor brackets bent on the iron worker to a 22.5º= 45º
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The finished transfer punch.
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A section of the same structural tube was cut for the weldment. A section of the same tube was also used to jig up
the assembly for tacking and welding. All welds were vertical up for deep penetration.
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The leveling brackets and threaded bushings (1/2"-13). The leveling feet were sourced at J.W. Winco.
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The welding is done. Fitting on the four swivel castors and mocking up the base onto the machine.
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Another shot. Here you can see two of four mounting holes that were drilled and threaded by hand.
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The casters are rated to 990 lb each. I sourced them from Service Caster in PA. The level bubble matches the rolling jig table.
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Nice floor clearance of about 3/4" for "wheels up".
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A few more shots to follow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The Mill actually rolled fairly easily on a flat floor.
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Prime and painted gunmetal grey.
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It cured for a week.
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Loaded the the Mill on to a drop deck trailer for delivery to the customers home. The Mill head was rotated 180º
to reduce hight and top weight. The machine was also resting on wood. The leveling feet were used to jack up the
entire machine to place the cribbing under the frame.
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The casters made simple work of locating the machine.
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That ones done!
 
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