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i would like guys opionions on what kind of costs are going to be associated with the new 07's and is it worth it over the gas engine
 

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you will never recover the cost of the diesel, dont buy one if you dont need it. also, when the warranty is done you will haveto be really wealthy to fix any diesel failures, trust me on that.
 

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It depends on how you use your truck. Generally, if you do low miles and tow infrequently, the gasser will be a better deal. Higher miles and lots of towing will favor the diesel. If you often haul or tow heavy loads then it's a moot point as the 6.0 gas will have nowhere near the hauling abilities of the Dmax.

You can expect higher upfront costs with the diesel - you're not only upgrading to diesel but also upgrading to the Allison transmission. Milage will average 1-1/2 times as much for the diesel over the gas, but diesel costs more per gallon. Here too, it depends on where you live and how you use the truck to see if the overal cost of operating per mile will favor the diesel or the gas. Maintainence costs on the diesel will be higher. Resale of the diesel will also be higher - in my part of the country you can expect to recoup 100% of the extra diesel cost when you sell.

Bottom line is that if you need the diesel power then get it. IMO, there is no more comparison between the gas and diesel - apples and oranges. Up through '06, you could make a case for gas vs diesel by comparing the 8.1L with the Dmax. With the torque of the 6.0 being just over half that of the Dmax, it's like you are comparing two different trucks.
 

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i will be buying a diesel regardless. i won't be doing any type of towing hauling as of right now, but plan too. i think the diesel will outlast a gasser IMHO. i look forward to keeping it for a long time.
 

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phazar;1568443; said:
you will never recover the cost of the diesel, dont buy one if you dont need it. also, when the warranty is done you will haveto be really wealthy to fix any diesel failures, trust me on that.
I disagree, between fuel savings and the additional resale value I believe you do recover the cost. You will recover about half the value of the diesel on the back end when you sell the truck. This is especially true if you put alot of miles on the truck, a gasser with 150 clicks on it scares alot of people away, a diesel with 150k isn't nearly as damaging to resale value.
 

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Quick Storm;1570950; said:
i will be buying a diesel regardless. i won't be doing any type of towing hauling as of right now, but plan too. i think the diesel will outlast a gasser IMHO. i look forward to keeping it for a long time.

Repairs will kill you. Also there is alot of up keep on it too.
 

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smoking;1571223; said:
Repairs will kill you. Also there is alot of up keep on it too.
I don't think anyone has to die over this. After all, it is just a truck.:D

IMHO, I think all engines are expensive to fix today.

Oil changes are a little more expensive, but not that bad. Fuel filter needs to be changed more regularly than a gas. Fuel is more expensive, but milage is better compared to a big block gas, so it's basically a wash. Other than that, every other cost is basically the same.

If your worried about the cost of ownership down the road to fix it, take that 2000-3000 dollars that you would've spent on a extended warranty, and invest it. That way, anytime you have to fix your vehicle down the road, you can think back about that investment you made that is still making you money. You can let it ride throughout many vehicles as opposed to losing the money/benifits with each vehicle trade or sell. In 20-30 years, you'll be waaaaaaaayyy ahead. The warranty companies take your money and invest it to make them even more money. You might as well invest it yourself and reap the benefits.

Just a thought.

The least expensive vehicle to work on is one that has been properly maintained...gas or diesel.
 

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titus1998;1571520; said:
If your worried about the cost of ownership down the road to fix it, take that 2000-3000 dollars that you would've spent on a extended warranty, and invest it. That way, anytime you have to fix your vehicle down the road, you can think back about that investment you made that is still making you money. You can let it ride throughout many vehicles as opposed to losing the money/benifits with each vehicle trade or sell. In 20-30 years, you'll be waaaaaaaayyy ahead. The warranty companies take your money and invest it to make them even more money. You might as well invest it yourself and reap the benefits.

Just a thought.
That isnt to bad of an idea. you have 5 years for that money to make money for you. (at least with GM with the 5 year 100,000 mile warranty.) And with my extended warranty i have to pay $100 every time i bring it into the shop so that is more money to invest.

That really is a great idea.
 

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Don't count an a diesel outlasting a diesel, I have a Chevy pickups that is used for deliveries, and it has well over 300,000 miles on the odometer. The truck is still in use and working hard. The key I think is oil changes, I change the oil every 2500 miles and use synthetic Mobil 1.
 

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Duramax 6.6L;1571752; said:
The key I think is oil changes, I change the oil every 2500 miles and use synthetic Mobil 1.
2500 miles and a oil change w/ mobil 1 :eek: How expensive is that. I change mine @ 3k and I use Rotella dino oil. My suburban uses mobil 1 and i change it evey 5k and it is creapiing up on 170k no problems
 

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Duramax 6.6L;1571752; said:
Don't count an a diesel outlasting a diesel, I have a Chevy pickups that is used for deliveries, and it has well over 300,000 miles on the odometer. The truck is still in use and working hard. The key I think is oil changes, I change the oil every 2500 miles and use synthetic Mobil 1.
Man, way overkill on your oil changes. Every once in a while a gasser will make it that far, but more often the diesels are the only ones that can get there.

Back to your oil changes. At 2500 miles in any driving condition dino oil will perform just as well. The whole point of syn is the start up and extended miles between changes. I sell oil and would love to have you for a customer. A lot of people would buy your used oil, filter it and run it another 10k or more (not that I recommend doing that)
 

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BigBadAllis;1573672; said:
Man, way overkill on your oil changes. Every once in a while a gasser will make it that far, but more often the diesels are the only ones that can get there.

Back to your oil changes. At 2500 miles in any driving condition dino oil will perform just as well. The whole point of syn is the start up and extended miles between changes. I sell oil and would love to have you for a customer. A lot of people would buy your used oil, filter it and run it another 10k or more (not that I recommend doing that)

If I get you with the oil changes, boy am I going to get you with this. I change the transmission fluid every 6 months regardless of the mileage and I use Mobil 1.
I get double usage out of the oil and trans fluid. I have waste oil furnaces that burn quite a bit of oil.
 

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How does the Mobil 1 syn burn in the used oil furnace? Had some customers tell me that the used oil collection people won't take their used oil in a standard load.
 

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I have never had a problem burning the synthetic, Burns just fine.

I have noticed that it burns with less soot buildup.
 

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Was wondering. Now I wonder why they won't take it. I'm going to have to ask our local guys who collect the oil what the deal is.
 

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2500 miles intervals....

With today's engines, and the improved lubricants, it's not necessary to change the oil that often. GM's oil change monitor is an excellent, and lab proven interval guide. You can get 6-10k on an oil change, safely. Use synthetic and get a bigger piece of mind in that.

We may not be able to ween ourselves completely off of the Venezuelan and Mid-East oil teat, but we can all do our part. If millions of people stretched a little bit here and there, it'd add up to a HUGE difference. My buddy's kid is in that hellhole, I'd like to help him out a little.
 

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Was giving you guys a heads up.. the new diesel was quoted to me today during inventory updates at my dealership as costing 7000 more than old body style.. Can't imagine why just yet.. but am certainly curious.. My dealership was expecting around 3100-3500 and got hit with this. Again just a simple heads up.. I'll askt tommorow while I am at work exactly why the raise in price..
 

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porterz;1579249; said:
Was giving you guys a heads up.. the new diesel was quoted to me today during inventory updates at my dealership as costing 7000 more than old body style.. Can't imagine why just yet.. but am certainly curious.. My dealership was expecting around 3100-3500 and got hit with this. Again just a simple heads up.. I'll askt tommorow while I am at work exactly why the raise in price..
That is a big jump. Looks like Edmunds was right, & I wish they weren't. How does that compare to other generations in their first production year, like when the '01 HD's first came out vs the 2000 2500's/3500's? Paying an extra $7,000 is almost like paying for two D-Max engines :)
 

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RoadShark;1579281; said:
That is a big jump. Looks like Edmunds was right, & I wish they weren't. How does that compare to other generations in their first production year, like when the '01 HD's first came out vs the 2000 2500's/3500's? Paying an extra $7,000 is almost like paying for two D-Max engines :)
But I just did an apples to apples comparison at Edmunds of a bare-bones Classic 2wd work truck and a bare-bones 900 2wd work truck - the classic came out to $32K MSRP, $28K invoice, while the 900 came out to $34K MSRP, $30K invoice. A difference of only $2K. But, Edmunds is slightly off on the classics pricing: it actually is $31K MSRP, $26.5K invoice - about a $3K difference, but still far from $7K. Could it be in the options? I went back to Edmunds and this time compared the most expensive configuration (CC/LB) & highest trim level. The only options I selected were the D/A because there are already options included with the higher trim level, and it's harder to get an even comparison picking & choosing options. Here's what I found:
Classic LT3 $45.6K MSRP, $40.7K invoice. And the 900 LTZ $49K MSRP, $44K invoice. A difference of about $3-4K. But how accurate is Edmunds 900 pricing? Some who have ordered say it was pretty close. The cheapest 3500 4WD LMM I priced at Edmunds (only option of D/A & A/C) was $37.6K MSRP, $33.7K invoice. The samething in a Classic (A/C is included) (using real GM pricing, not Edmunds) is $35K MSRP, $30K invoice. So are the prices really that much more? I'm still waiting to hear the pricing direct from the horse's mouth, instead of just from Edmunds.
 
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