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Discussion Starter #1
Where did you locate yours?

I have a 2006 GMC 1-Ton Crew Cab 4x4 Long Bed. Seems like the suggested location is directly under the steering column at the bottom of the dash, but located there you can't see or hardly reach while driving.

I would sure appreciate opinions and photos of yours!

Also I've already purchased the unit and the specific cable to plug into the fuse box. Dealer wants upwards of $200 to install. Seems like a pretty straight forward instalation. But if I install it myself, will I void my extended warrantee? I purchased a 7 year/100,000 mile, 0 Deductable warrantee which wasn't exactly cheap, and I wouldn't want to mess up?

Thanks,

Phil
 

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Located mine on the right side of the dashboard, on the flat part of the dash where it goes down then levels out under the dash. Should not hurt your warranty..
 

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I mounted mine just to the right of center. You want to be able to reach it for manual braking. Install time is literally a few minutes anyone who would charge you $200 for that is a thief.
 

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I drilled a hole in the center of the mounting bracket and used one of the screws to the right side of the steering wheel at the bottom of the dash. It is a little lower than I like but works. If you got the GM plug with the controller all you have to do is plug it in. Drilling the hole in the bracket, bolting the bracket to the dash, fastening the controller to the bracket, pluging the pigtail to the controler and to the power box about 5 mimutes. I'll do it for $200 any day. If someone tells you you will void your warranty if you do the install yourself you are talking to a scam artist.
 

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I bought the truck to brake controller from Prodigy. I used some real good double back sticky tape to mount it. The cable plugs in under the dash on the left of the steering column. All done. You can see pics in my garage.
 

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i just bought one this week reese went to a better place i guess how do you like the prodigy brake controller ? how does it work compared to like the reese i had
 

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Mine is under the steering column. I have to move my head back a little to see it but since it isn't something I monitor while driving down the road (just check once in awhile) that spot works the best for me. I have a 3 position toggle switch next to it (that I use alot...:rolleyes: :D ) so reaching down there has become "second nature". Warranty should NOT be an issue.
 

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Prodigy

SD-455;1585302; said:
I drilled a hole in the center of the mounting bracket and used one of the screws to the right side of the steering wheel at the bottom of the dash. It is a little lower than I like but works. If you got the GM plug with the controller all you have to do is plug it in. Drilling the hole in the bracket, bolting the bracket to the dash, fastening the controller to the bracket, pluging the pigtail to the controler and to the power box about 5 mimutes. I'll do it for $200 any day. If someone tells you you will void your warranty if you do the install yourself you are talking to a scam artist.
:) Same as above. If i remember corectly you can mount anywhere sideways upside down etc. because there is gyro scope in there and does not have to level like the earlier Brake controls. But you do have to mount in hands reach for those possible emergencys.;)
 

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Actually i was reading a max of 70 degrees (mounting wise)
 

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no pics of mine but I have the bucket seats and console so i mounted it in the top hole of the console.
 

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It can be angled as per Jason's quote, but it has to be oriented so that the front of it it points straight ahead. It can't point to the side at all, since it senses deceleration and anything other than being perfectly in line with the direction of travel would skew the measurement.
My $.02 worth.
 

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Just installed mine on Friday night. My truck had the factory wires left in it from the last owner. So I ordered my prodigy without the extra harness, and soldered the wires together. I mounted it above my right leg so the center is lined up with the left side of the go pedal. I can see the display there without moving through the steering wheel. Got mine from rvwholesalers.com for 94.99.
Now I just wish I had something to test it on. Gonna go pick up my fifth wheel which is 2 1/2 hours away and would kinda like to test the controller to make sure all is in working order.
Next install is my new hitch. Reese 15k pro series.
 

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I dont have a center console, nor do i smoke, so i simply got rid of the ashtray and mounted it there... i'll try and snap some pictures tomorrow. It looks really clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Temporally at least I just went ahead and mounted it under the steering column at the bottom of the dash. First tried to mount it using the plastic pocket. Didn't like it! So I switched it over to the metal bracket that came with the unit.

Instalation was anything but a snap, and took quite a bit longer than I would have thought.

First off even though I ordered the proper cable from Tekonsha so I wouldn't have to splice cables. There was no information as to where to plug the cable with the Tekonsha instructions. Wire harness was color coded diferent than the factory cable.

After compairing the factory cable with the Tekonsha cable and making sure at least the wires were where they were they were supposed to be even though they were diferent colors. Finaly figgureing where to plug it in at, and then checking everything to make sure it worked.

I'm still left with one very important question? Is a 20 or 30 amp inline auto-reset circuit breaker still required, or is there one built into the back of the fuse panel somewhere. Tekonsha instructions only mention it when wiring directly to the battery. The factory cable came with one but says I quote {Do only one of the following: 1) For vehicles without the TP2 option (auxillary battery) plug in the 40A B+ trailering J-Case fuse in the stud #1 locationof the UH electrical center. 2) For vehicles with the TP2 option (auxillary battery): discard the 40A B+ trailering J-Case fuse-it is not needed.

Now since this is a dually with the HD trailer package, and there's 2 batteries under the hood, I take it that the fuse is not needed, why I don't know. Tags on the factory cable state it is the Z82 glove box jumper #Z68117778, and another tags says TRAILER B+FUSE, this cable is also about 10 or 12 feet long.

Anybody know whether or not a fuse is necessary?

Phil
 

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Greyghost;1589818; said:
#1 I'm still left with one very important question? Is a 20 or 30 amp inline auto-reset circuit breaker still required, or is there one built into the back of the fuse panel somewhere. Tekonsha instructions only mention it when wiring directly to the battery.

#2The factory cable came with one but says I quote {Do only one of the following: 1) For vehicles without the TP2 option (auxillary battery) plug in the 40A B+ trailering J-Case fuse in the stud #1 locationof the UH electrical center. 2) For vehicles with the TP2 option (auxillary battery): discard the 40A B+ trailering J-Case fuse-it is not needed.

Now since this is a dually with the HD trailer package, and there's 2 batteries under the hood, I take it that the fuse is not needed, why I don't know. Tags on the factory cable state it is the Z82 glove box jumper #Z68117778, and another tags says TRAILER B+FUSE, this cable is also about 10 or 12 feet long.

Anybody know whether or not a fuse is necessary?

Phil
I believe that you have 2 seperate issues here.
#1 I don't have an answer, other than I plugged mine in 3 years ago and it's worked fine ever since.
#2 If you want 12v power to the trailer batteries/interior lights, from the truck, you need to instal the fuse. If you don't want it, then don't install it. No matter what you do with the fuse, the controller, trailer brakes and exterior lights will not be effected.
 

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Just Like post #15, I plugged mine in and adjusted the level. I have not had any problems with it. Since you are not wiring directly to the battery you should not need a fuse.
 

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Mine is under dash to the right..inline with "go" pedal, easy to see while driving, easy to adjust while driving (if required)

4th year in use...great brake controller !!!

Sorry no pics available
 

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Got a Bit carried away

Bob in PA;1586110; said:
It can be angled as per Jason's quote, but it has to be oriented so that the front of it it points straight ahead. It can't point to the side at all, since it senses deceleration and anything other than being perfectly in line with the direction of travel would skew the measurement.
My $.02 worth.
This sounds right , Sry got abit carried away these are so much better than then anything i have had before.
 

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Here's mine... No problems with reaching it for panic adjusments. I used existing holes to mount it (no drilling needed). I can see it easily also. I'm scratching my head over your comments. :think: :confuzeld Can't see / reach it??? :)

Easy to install... Mount it, then plug in supplied cable . Took me about 30 minutes to install. 15 minutes was thinking where I was going to mount it. $200. to install!?!? I'm in the wrong line of work!
 

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Greyghost;1589818;1589818 said:
Temporally at least I just went ahead and mounted it under the steering column at the bottom of the dash. First tried to mount it using the plastic pocket. Didn't like it! So I switched it over to the metal bracket that came with the unit.

Instalation was anything but a snap, and took quite a bit longer than I would have thought.

First off even though I ordered the proper cable from Tekonsha so I wouldn't have to splice cables. There was no information as to where to plug the cable with the Tekonsha instructions. Wire harness was color coded diferent than the factory cable.

After compairing the factory cable with the Tekonsha cable and making sure at least the wires were where they were they were supposed to be even though they were diferent colors. Finaly figgureing where to plug it in at, and then checking everything to make sure it worked.

I'm still left with one very important question? Is a 20 or 30 amp inline auto-reset circuit breaker still required, or is there one built into the back of the fuse panel somewhere. Tekonsha instructions only mention it when wiring directly to the battery. The factory cable came with one but says I quote {Do only one of the following: 1) For vehicles without the TP2 option (auxillary battery) plug in the 40A B+ trailering J-Case fuse in the stud #1 locationof the UH electrical center. 2) For vehicles with the TP2 option (auxillary battery): discard the 40A B+ trailering J-Case fuse-it is not needed.

Now since this is a dually with the HD trailer package, and there's 2 batteries under the hood, I take it that the fuse is not needed, why I don't know. Tags on the factory cable state it is the Z82 glove box jumper #Z68117778, and another tags says TRAILER B+FUSE, this cable is also about 10 or 12 feet long.

Anybody know whether or not a fuse is necessary?

Phil
First off diesel trucks do not have an auxillary battery. They have two batteries that are hooked together. Gas motors can have an auxillary battery. This auxillary battery is used to provide power for auxillary equipment such as a snow plow or to provide auxillary power thru the 7 pin plug to a trailer. The trailer brake controller will work without installing the 40amp fuse in the fuse box above the fender under the hood. You need to install the 40amp fuse to provide power to the auxillary pin in the 7 pin trailer connector.
 
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