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Discussion Starter #1
Uggg

He is road tripping by himself and luckily has a cousin following him so has separate transportation. We confirmed it was gas.

So...drain the tank put several gallons of diesel in it and then flush the lines until diesel is coming out.

Then new fuel filter.

Then try to start?

Is that close?

Of course he has a full tank, he was between a 1/4 and a 1/2 tank when he filled up.

NH
 

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Uggg

He is road tripping by himself and luckily has a cousin following him so has separate transportation. We confirmed it was gas.

So...drain the tank put several gallons of diesel in it and then flush the lines until diesel is coming out.

Then new fuel filter.

Then try to start?

Is that close?

Of course he has a full tank, he was between a 1/4 and a 1/2 tank when he filled up.

NH
Yes, drain the gas out of the tank and lines and fill with fresh diesel, new filter
Grab a can of Seafoam and dump it into the fuel filter manager.
Start and run the engine until the seafoam is consumed.
If you have trouble getting it to start, grab a can of WD40 or a can of your favorite cooking spray and give the intake a quick shot.
 

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2001 Silverado 2500HD CrewCab 4x4
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Drain the tank, change the filter, fill the filter with diesel, one filters worth of unfiltered diesel is insignificant. And prime like hell. She’ll kick over Once the bulk of gas is flushed out.
 

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If it was mine I would also find a way to flush new fuel or maybe even your favorite additive in a fairly high concentration through the IP. I know the DB2's have a couple caps you can unscrew or you can remove the return valve/fitting and let fuel flow / bleed through that way. I assume the DB4 does also? My reasoning would be to get as much lubrication in there as possible to not do any more damage. If so many of the injector lines were not such a pain to access I would crack and bleed those too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well...that was fun... It's running again.

Got the tank out and drained it all. Lots of siphoning and 5 gallon buckets. Then there was that pesky pool I just couldn't get out. Some really old towels were used to soak that final bit.

Then got out some flecks of something that was inside so I was solid that the tank was clean.

I had been having some issues with fuel level reading fluctuating, so I took this opportunity to put in a new fuel sending unit.

Got tank all back in and then went to the front. Got everything out of FFM and made sure it was dry.

Added 5 gallons of fresh diesel and put in some Stanadyne performance additive (at a high dose) in that fuel.

Then turned on ignition and let FFM fill up several times and then sucked it out. After several times of seeming like pure diesel I added the seafoam and new filter and tried to bleed it. Turns out the seal was bad on the filter (had been in my garage for a while) so off to auto parts.

New filter and filled up with seafoam again. I bleed a little bit out off the drain on top.

Then tried to start it.

It started just like always, I didn't notice anything weird.

I let it idle for a while with nothing odd.

Some light driving and then went to pump to add a few more gallons and verify fuel sending unit working ok (which it is).

I'm sure this introduced some amount of wear in the system, but at this point it doesn't look bad.

I'm usually diligent about using Stanadyne, so I'll keep that up.

Thanks for all the ideas.

NH
 
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Sounds like you did everything right. Not to get into the great debate of fuel additives, but I use BG DFC Plus. It has great lubricating properties. Idk much about stanadyne. You said you dropped the tank? Any reason you chose that instead of removing the bed?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK..I should add that my teenager dropped the tank the day before I got home, then he had his wisdom teeth out so I had to finish up the job.

I've never had this bed off and on a different truck we had to replace crossmembers because of fitting spinning, so I'm guessing that got my teen a little gun shy about doing that.

We are going to have to remove the bed anyway to put a gooseneck in it. So my plan is to pb blast each bolt, then use my bolt buster heater thing and then very carefully start trying to get it out..praying nothing busts or spins

But yeah...I would have preferred to go the bed off route..assuming no drama with bolts.

No research on standadyne. Somebody turned me onto it years ago. I think it was a diesel shop up in Fargo, ND.

Totally open to a new thread to kick around additives. I use same in all my diesels.

2x 99s and a 2005 LLY.

Debating timing on "feed the beast" in another thread.

Thanks

NH
 

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I am not sure but 5 gallon may not be sufficient fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I got it started on 5 and it barely registered anything on the fuel level, but it did start.

Then I put in enough fuel at the pump to get it up to about a 1/4 of a tank.

NH
 

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A couple of years back, i went to fuel up 6.5L suburban. Tank was close to empty. Before I realized it I had put about 3 gallons of regular gas in the tank. I quickly shut the gas pump off and remembering that I had read one time that putting a little gas ( less than 10% ) in the fuel of an engine like these older 6.5L's won't hurt them if it's a one-time accident. The diesel pump was the pump in front of the gas pump, so I was able to push the suburban by hand up to the diesel pump, and filled it with diesel. So now I had a fuel ratio of about 3/40 gas/diesel, or about 7% of my fuel was gas. I drove home, drove that tank down to below 1/4 and refilled. No problems. I was lucky I guess. There was no change in sound or anything else to indicate that I wasn't burning pure diesel. That was about 8000 miles ago and it's still doing great. .
 

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I had the full service fuel station fill my truck with gas while I wasn't paying attention (talking to them about tires).They caught the issue right away.

Was able to pump the tank out with my FASS lift pump in under 10 minutes. Refilled with diesel. No problem at all, got a free tank of fuel and a bottle of treatment.
 
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1993 chevy silverado c3500 crew cab dually
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I read that throwing in like 8oz of atf per gallon of gasoline will get you rolling. It is a old timer trick. It was common knowledge apparently as many a old man told me like 15 years ago. I don't think I'd try it on a newer diesel motor tho
 

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I read that throwing in like 8oz of atf per gallon of gasoline will get you rolling. It is a old timer trick. It was common knowledge apparently as many a old man told me like 15 years ago. I don't think I'd try it on a newer diesel motor tho
The challenge is that we CANNOT find old timer ATF anymore.
All modern ATF now has a lot of additive that makes it last longer.
Those additive are not exactly combustible or can be burnt as the fuel is used.
So ATF is not a good fuel additive anymore.
Unless you can find a vintage ATF made in the 70s and 80s.
 

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ATF is bad to run in any engine as above post says. As far as mixing gas and diesel? Back in the day when diesel was diesel and men were men. It was pretty common to mix a gallon of gas in a diesel tank to keep it from jelling in cold temps. A little gas in your diesel will not hurt anything. If the truck still runs good I would not even worry about it. If you make a mistake and fill it with gas. Just siphon it out, Drain the FFM. Refill with fresh fuel. Flush/prime system by opening the water drain and operating the LP.. When good fuel comes out. Start and go.
 

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Sounds like OP has it under control, but Stanadyne Lubricity Formula might be helpful in this type of situation. It's the one with a purple label.

From their website:
Extra strength Lubricity Formula® is ideal for very dry or "winter blend" fuels such as #1 diesel.

  • Approved by Original Equipment Manufacturers (OEMs)
  • Five times more lubricating content than other Stanadyne additives
  • Recommended when excessive wear is a problem
  • Cleans and protects injectors and all fuel systems components
  • Demulsifies water for filter/separator efficiency
  • Fights formation of corrosion and rust
  • Keeps fuel fresher
  • Contains no alcohol
  • Specially formulated for ultra low sulfur diesel
  • Can be used with bio diesel up to B20 (20% bio content)
Available Product Numbers and Sizes include: 38559 (8 oz./237ml); 38560 (16oz./473ml); 38561 (64oz./1.9L); 38562 (5 gal./19L); and 38563 (55 gal./208L)

NOTE: Special formulation ratio for 8 oz. application. Recommended treatment for all other sizes: 4 ounces Lubricity Formula per 30 gallons of fuel.
 
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SOB when did I become a old timer. I forget!!! And I love the men were men and bumpers were made from steel taken from a tank! And I forgot about the gas for gelling. If I recall we used kerosene for that.
 
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