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Discussion Starter #42
With this PTO & Pump configuration, you are suppose to support the pump so you do not put too much strain on the transmission case or the PTO. So brackets be made. That horse shoe, bolts to the pump and the whole thing then bolts to some supports on the big Allison transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
One of the truly aggravating things about this whole truck has been the rust... I was having an issue with the brakes not releasing, so I decided to take out the s-cams and lube them up. Insert Hornets Nest Here! Here is a pic of the brake shoes once I got the wheels off. I'm pretty sure those chunks are not suppose to be missing!
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Let the cleaning up begin. Everything comes off. Ordered up new hub seals as well. Had to make a big socket to loosen up the rear locking nuts. A couple of posts of pics to highlight the rust damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
A liberal use of anti-seize to keep things from being too hard to take apart for the next guy. Once it was all back toghter, I was still having a problem of the brakes fadding after a bit of use. It took me several weeks and the fear of having to take it to a shop and have things looked out before I finally figured out that I had mi-installed the self adjusting brakes levers. Once I figure out the problem, all better. HUGE RELIEF!
 

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Discussion Starter #47
One thing about going through the rear end I forgot to mention. Before I purchased the truck the PO said he had let the truck sit (no bed or box) for a few months and then went out to drive it just to keep it from sitting too long. When he went to move, the brakes were frozen. He went forward/reverse a few times and got things going but in doing so, something gave way. He determined it was the rear diff. He located a replacement nearby and since I was not interested in a busted truck, he replaced the old diff with his new/used one. Well when I pulled the axle shafts to do all the work on the back end, this is what I found! Not good, but not awful either. I spent some time cleaning the ends up with a triangle file. It got off most of the boogers. Not what I would ideally like to put back in my truck, but all thing considered, they will probably be just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Spent some time getting all the hydraulic fittings and valves set up for a trip to the hydraulic shop for hoses. Some test fitting and everything gets labeled up so I do not forget what goes where. I'm using a 12 volt D05 tandem center valve to operate the hoist with a 4-way pendant in the cab. Two buttons for up/down then the other two for an end gate open/lock.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Its been a long time overdue for an update, so hear goes...


Time for some wiring to control the pump and to activate the solenoid. First pic is on the dash left of the steering wheel. The light indicates the PTO pump is going, switch turn it on. Both have a light, but more is better, right! The switch is from a Kenworth I think. Wired up a pendant to control the lift solenoid. Right now I only have the power up and power down (more later on this).
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Finally I was ready for hoses. I took the truck to a local hydraulics shop and they worked with me as I measured up the hoses in order and then gave them the specs. Hose made and installed, on to the next in the line. All the fittings are JIC male so that makes the hoses all JIC female. At the time, I left the bed off as to make the install and measuring of everything easier. I still had a little more work and fitting to take care of back at the farm/shop, so no testing at the hydraulic shop. Big thanks to Top Industrial, for working with me and fitting me in between their other customers!


Back at the farm and the bed goes on and time for the moment of truth, fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Harvest Ready Now! The sides are how it was set up to haul trees. I few details I am not sure I covered. But if you look at the middle two pictures on the previous post, you can see there are steel posts in the middle (2x4x0.25) and in the rear (2x6x0.25), more on these later when the rest of the bed gets completed. These have a stop welded on them so they do not fall through. Then they are drilled and tapped to receive 3/4-13 bolts to hold them in tight. Pictures are a mixture of the middle and back. The middle pieces only have two bolts, the back have three. The back stake pockets got wood 2x material flush cut so that everything slides out as it should. Also, the lighting on the front corners is 1" LED's installed in a grommet and a 3/4" hole. They are 3-wire so they serve two functions: first as standard running light, then as stop/turn indicators. I really like these little lights a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Harvest use update.


First two loads went great! Then day two, the hoist stopped working. WTF. Took me a while to figure it out. But finally it came down to the solenoid valve. There is an "A" and a "B" side. Both have an led indicator light to show if they are getting power. Both were getting power. But then, I felt them as I used the remote pendant and the "B" side had a deffenit "clunk" the "A", nothing.... Ok, regroup and witch some hydraulic lines around and just have hydraulic driving the lift and then turn off the pump and let gravity down be my friend. Wal-la. From there on there was no problems the rest of the season. I love it when a good plan comes together.



I also have to say, when I first got all the hydraulics hooked up and everything worked. That was a really good day. Its hard to tell you how good that made me feel. When you work on something for over a year not knowing if it is really going to work and then it does just as you hoped. One the first try. Yeah, that was a good day.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Season over and now the rest of the bed build.



First the plan. Each side will have two sections, both roughly 8 feet long and 2 feet tall. They will also have stake pockets for adding additional height if you need to. All four will be hinged so that you can fold them down to load stuff. You will not be able to drive with them folded down. The middle steel piece (2x4 steel) will/can be bolted (does not really need to be, but does make it slightly more secure). The back will have a gate/door. It will be in 2 pieces and can open up like barn doors and swing them 270 degrees out of the way so they can be left open OR you can latch them together, pull a couple of pins and use the truck like a traditional dump truck. The only thing I have not fully worked out is the dump latch. There is a lot going on in the back corners and everything has to be easily removable, so it's taking me some real thinking.


First is making up the back corners. These posts will be 3 feet tall and made out of 2x6x0.25 steel. The reason they are 3 feet and not two is two fold. first it just gives you a little more clearance when dumping. Second, a loose cord of firewood is roughly 180 sq feet vs. a stacked cord at 128 sq feet. two loose cords would then be 360. My bed is 8 x 16 and if I put 1 foot risers on the sides for a total of 3' (matches the end gate) that would then work out to 384 sq feet. Now I loose a little bit on the side due to the side coming in 2" due to the side panels. But even with that it is still 372 sq feet. So load it very full to the top and you can quickly deliver 2 cords of firewood without stacking.


Back corners also have a piece of 2"x0.5" flat bar on the back edge to pick up the gap between the door. Again these will have three bolts. The tube is threaded and then I welded in a jam nut as well just so they have a little more something for the bolt to grab onto. I welded on the two nuts furthest in first. Each just a little snug, not too tight. I still had to go back and chase the threads with a tap.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Also on the back posts, I would like to add some "goal posts" so if I go and pick up some 20' steel, no problem. I had an old set from another project lying around, so after some pretty easy modification, I have removable goal posts. The slide into the top of the 3' posts just like a receiver hitch. I used a couple of pieces of 1.5 square tube and a piece of 2" channel in the middle. I drilled some hole in near the bottom and then plug welded the sq & channel permanently in
 

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Discussion Starter #55
After much contemplation and a lot of measuring, I think I have a bottom latch system figured out that will be pretty low profile and easy enough to disconnect and that I can hook up my hydraulic system.


I will install the latches inside of the uprights. There is just enough room on the outside of the doors that I can use a piece of 1/2" steel to come down over a round bar. They will need to be tight against the inner-outside of the post.


Lets get started. How about the latch. I had several different ideas and plans as you can see.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Now the post.


I need to cut a slot in the post next to the outside (long wall) of the 2x6. it will be right at the very bottom of the post before it goes into its receiver. \


I started by drilling a hole at both the top and bottom of the new slot. Then took a cutting wheel and cut in-between. After a bunch of time with a grinder and file, I finally got something that looks like it might work. One of the pictures has a corner of the door, I'll cover that in another post.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Now for a little more time on the latch. This really is design build on the fly. The pics give you a little more idea how this is going to work. There will also be a piece welded on the back of the truck for the closed door to rest on.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Final latch push.



I have a little more work and refinement on my slot to do. I need to figure out just where the latch is going to sit and then drill a hole for the pivot bolt. The pivot bolt is a 1/2" flat countersunk with a mostly smooth shaft. The opposite side of the post will be tapped. Once the bolt is in, it's cut to length and sanded smooth to the post. All this will be inside a receiver so even if it back out a little, it's not going anywhere. On final installation, I will use a little thread locker. Final mod on the latches, requires a bolt get welded into the opposite end. I'm using a piece of 1/2" scrap from a previous hole saw cut and then a nut to hole it on. The 1/2" scrap has some 1/2" all thread welded to it. Then a connecting bolt is screwed on 1/2" and tack welded to keep it from rotating. More all thread is then used to thread into the coupler again with another scrap 1/2" doughnut welded on one end. The hold down nut on the bolt is drilled and a 1/2" cotter pin is used to keep the nut from tightening or loosening when it is inside of the tube. On the pivot, I used a 1/2 piece of tube steel and a heavy washer. all this is welded in place. Right now, the threaded rod end hangs down below bottom of the receiver on the corner of the bed. Eventually, I will fab up something in the shape of an "L" to connect to it and the other end of the "L" will have a hydraulic cylinder. It's all a bit complicated but in the end it's quite simple. Pictures help explain what is going on.


This was another good day. It actually worked!. I probably put more thought into this one design element than any other on the truck. Just so much happening in the back corner and so little space. In the end, I had to slide the latch in from the top side due to the jam nuts I welded inside on the other end.
 

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Harvest use update.


First two loads went great! Then day two, the hoist stopped working. WTF. Took me a while to figure it out. But finally it came down to the solenoid valve. There is an "A" and a "B" side. Both have an led indicator light to show if they are getting power. Both were getting power. But then, I felt them as I used the remote pendant and the "B" side had a deffenit "clunk" the "A", nothing.... Ok, regroup and witch some hydraulic lines around and just have hydraulic driving the lift and then turn off the pump and let gravity down be my friend. Wal-la. From there on there was no problems the rest of the season. I love it when a good plan comes together.



I also have to say, when I first got all the hydraulics hooked up and everything worked. That was a really good day. Its hard to tell you how good that made me feel. When you work on something for over a year not knowing if it is really going to work and then it does just as you hoped. One the first try. Yeah, that was a good day.
Truck looks GREAT with a load on it:thumb:

Great job detailing the project that alone takes a lot of time!

:notworthy:
 

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Discussion Starter #60 (Edited by Moderator)
Been a while. Just want to say, the thread is not dead it's just on hiatious. I have been working on a truck for a friend that has taken up all my fabrication time. It's not a Chevy, but the build is worth sharing. I have put together a little video of this build. I hope no one on here is too offended by a Dodge.



 
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