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Discussion Starter #21
Tuesday November 7th... I start harvest on Saturday the 11th. Once that gets going, all bets are off on getting anything else done. So, I invited my brother and father to come help me in a marathon day of bolting everything on. My plan is to get it all together and running and just secure the bed on temporarily so I can move trees just not the ability to dump them. Only one pic from the day late in the afternoon. This is my brother making some more connections. Needless to say... Spoiler alert. I didn't get done. No truck for harvest. Just too much to do. I ended up hiring one for a day and borrowing it again for over a week or so. A big pain in the ASK!
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Harvest over and a few days of rest and recovery and through the Christmas holiday. Back to work on the bed. Using the excavator to flip things over so I can get a full weld on all sides. I am pretty good at horizontal welding and can lay a good bead up to about 45 degrees. I can put down a functional weld in the vertical position, just not very pretty. Overhead is out. I just can't do it. So I have to flip things over to get a good deep penetrating weld. Not entirely done with the flat parts yet, but got all sides done and some primer on things so I can leave it out for a few days without rusting up too much.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
And Now it's time for a Headboard! Again, word of the day is measure, measure, measure.... I was not too sure how the window would turn out. I like to have as big of a grid on the headboard as possible to match the truck cabs' rear window. That way I have as much visibility as possible. Turns out it worked out almost perfectly. The main bed rails will be 34" apart on the outside, with the middle uprights of the headboard on the outside of those. Just added a couple of 2x4x3/16 cross members and wa'la. The screen is some old rock screen I had from my last truck project. It's heavy duty stuff. 1-1/4" squares on the inside and made of about 3/16 material. Only thing to make sure is get it flat and start from the middle taking the time to weld up all the contact points. I then use the 3,4,5 triangle method to square up the headboard to the main deck. Lots of clamp work as you can see.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
One last day on the bed. This time it's making it pretty. I spent the day finishing up a few welds and then to the stake pockets to smooth them out. I also want to point out my chain rail for securing straps and what have you. You can see it in a couple of pictures previously posted and also in the background of one here. It's the heavy flay bar at an angle to the bed and underneath on the inside. The idea is you can take your ratchet strap and hang it on one side and go to the other side and it will not have fallen off in the time it takes you to walk around the truck. The fact that it is angled also means the strap is pulling against the long side of steel (stronger) at an angle that then wraps around the underside of the bed. The pickets are all ground and sanded smooth with the top of the bed so nothing for things to catch on. I did not do this to the bottom, as I don't really care that it is entirely smooth. I did however take out the high spots so it's pretty uniform. Bed all ready to go now.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
More little bits now. Added some supports for the eventual dump hoist installation. FWIW, the dump hoist has been in several of the pictures already. It is in a couple of pieces waiting for it's eventual rebuild. Also worked on mounting up the hydraulic tank. Bent up some c-channel for side support and alignment of the main bed rails.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Got some parts back yesterday from my machinist neighbor and went to work on the main bed rails. They are 3x8x3/16 rec. steel. I have some more 1/2" leg angle I will be bolting to them as the main mounting point for the hoist. I had my neighbor bore out some DOM I had picked up to accept 3/4" bolts. These were then welded inside the main rails. Smoothed over on the inside so the angle lays flat and a little long on the other for an even a better weld on the DOM. At this point, I am real close to welding them onto the bed. I just need to redo the hinge. I'll post that next week after it's done, again. Meanwhile, here is where things stand as of yesterday. I have some other stuff I forgot to take pics of, so I'll try and remember to go over those as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Hello, It's been a while and we have a pretty good storm that has rolled in this weekend, so time for some updates. & no still not finished.

Lets finish up the rear end lighting and bumper.

I had made the truck side hinge once already and some measurements changed so I cut it apart and rebuilt it. First image is parts, second is mostly back together. After a lot of measuring and re-measuring, I finally welded the hinge in place and took the whole unit off the back of the truck for final weld up and paint. I even welded in a couple of grounding bolts for the rear lighting. One on each end.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Attach the bed is next. This is kind of a big day. Hopefully all my measuring and figuring has paid off. Put the rear back on the truck with the 10ea 3/4" Gr8 bolts and Gripco nuts. I really love those things. If you are not familiar, they are like nylocks only all steel. I believe they are a little out of round so the threads grab like crazy. They do not come loose or rattle off where the nylocks will, but I digress. Beams in place and measure, measure, measure... One final look before they are welded up. With some good solid tacks in place, turn them horizontal for finish welding.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Before I put the bed it's self on, time for a couple of small bits and pieces. First some brackets on the inside of the frame to route all the air hoses through and eventually cinch down with some zip ties. Had to make a little bracket for the electric brake controller. Made some big hinges for the mud flaps. Made a cross member over the rear axle to support the hoist and make that install a little easier. Eventually that cross member will get an old tire tread attached to it to alleviate steel on steel wear.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Final prep before the big day. This included welding the bed onto the main beams. Sorry, so pics, just a lot of welding. Everything lined up just as it was suppose to so nothing to see here anyway.

Finally the big maiden voyage and a true shakedown of the truck. First stop is the DMV to register the truck and get legal. Second stop is to get some new rubber all around. The third and final stop is off to the steel supplier and pick up the 1/4" plate for the bed floor and the 3/16 tread plate for the headboard. I will just go home in town overnight before taking the truck back to the farm in the morning. It's going to take all day to get through all those stops.

Driving the truck for it's maiden voyage, I am trying to figure out all the little idosyncrasiesncies about it. Brakes work great. Power up and down the hills out of the farm seems good, although I really do not have a load. After the DMV, I hit the freeway and that is were I notice a little issue. I seem to be loosing a little top in speed on the freeway. Over 50 mph, the power just seems to fade and my speed drops some..... That's concerning, but I have not even done a full service on the tranny or engine yet. Get to the tire store no problem. 4 hours later, off to the steel supplier, no issues. Then through town to my home. Next morning back in the truck to take it back to the farm and continue working on it. I probably need to get some new fluids in it.

But then, no start.... CRAP! Several hours later and a tiny amount of either, I just can't get it started and have extremely limited tools... Time to bail and have it towed to a professional.

Late in the day I get a call from the shop, all fixed. Now I know a few things about diesels. 1. they need compression to run. I had compression just fine the day before and I'm sure it didn't go bad overnight. 2. Diesels need fuel. If you have these two components, you can start a diesel engine. The service mangler tells me the only problem was dead batteries. "OH REALLY", that wouldn't have to do with the 2-3 hours I spent turning it over trying to start it? IDOIT, I don't believe him, but its running again! I did have them take care of a couple of small sensor issues since it was in the shop. Electronics are not my strong point. Then I wait for them to call me as I am stranded at home with nothing really to do. Finally, I just get a ride down to their shop and ask for my truck back. They never called. Furthermore, they said the truck had been worked on overnight and they needed more info before they went any further...... WELL WHEN WERE YOU GOING TO CALL? ARGH! I just took the truck. $1000 for new batteries and fixing two (2) bad grounds.

On the way home, the high speed loss of power issue was still a problem, actually even worse. Had to get off the freeway and go surface streets out to the country. Even then, going up the hills to my farm was a challenge. CRAP! Time for all new fluids and filters.

More on next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
All new fluids and filters have arrived and time for a day of wrenching and getting grimy. Everything goes just fine and I am not noticing any really issues. Only real issue I am concerned about is replacing the fuel filter. If you know anything about diesels, you know that priming them can be a pain-in-the-ask! Also, my truck does not seem to have a manual priming pump to make it easier. I have a Davco 210 filter head, sorry no pic here. The filter is mounted upside down, so all the fuel will drain out when you remove the filter and no way to keep fuel in the new filter when installing. My filter head unit has a 7/8-14" center bolt mount. After much research, I take a chance on a different filter that meets all the specs, but does not cross reference to the filter that is on it. This whole set up is designed to have a filter with a fill plug on the bottom or in this orientation, the top. Napa 3337 filter has a screw in petcock on the bottom, the thread pattern matches and the micron rating is very close to MFG specs. Upon removing the old fuel filter, I see a big problem. The filter has so much crap in it, that not much fuel must have been getting through. Only adjustment I have to make when installing the new filter is to remove the washers from the mounting bolts. This give the new (3337) filter enough room to fit on the head. Pull the petcock from the Bottom/Top and pour in clean diesel. Replace the petcock with a 1/4" brass plug and job done. Starts right up. Whew.

Remember back to the last post about what makes a diesel run? Compression & Fuel! Idiots at the shop thought it was dead batteries. What happened was the bouncy tow ride to the shop shifted enough of the debris in the filter so some fuel started flowing into the engine again. Lack of fuel at top end caused the engine and truck to run sluggish. IDIOTS!

All fluids changed, I hooked up the trailer and delivered a tractor to my father. No issues. Truck seems to be running great now.

Sorry, I really should have had pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Next up Hoist rebuild. I had purchased a used hoist and it was in much worse shape than I thought. So time for a complete tear down and rebuild. The main problem was all the pivot points where bent, or damaged in some way. I was going to have to replace part of them to fit my application. Also the hydraulic cylinders showed some signs of leaking, so ordered new seal kit and retainer rings from the manufacturer.

First step cut it apart. Before that, take a lot of measurements and record them.

That pretty much gets me up to where I am at with pictures.
 

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Thanks for posting! It's fun to live vicariously through you guys with the tools, know-how, and skills!
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Nowwww, where did I leave off, oh yes hoist rebuild...


Got all may parts back from my neighbor machinist friend. My only problem with him is, he is a real machinist. I'm a farmer (mostly), so my level of tolerance is somewhere in the 1/8 to 1/16 range, his is in the 1,000's... With a project like this, probably best I tighten things up a bit, but I digress. Here is me mocking things up and putting a few hard tacks together.


Probably my only post for now, but more to come in the next several weeks. Still in the thick of things so not much free time.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Next step is then to see if the hoists fits like it's suppose to. My calculations said I should be pretty darn close like less than 1/2". First in goes the hoist then the bed goes on next. On the first attempt, the bed was resting on the hoist. There is a crossmember I installed under it to help with this installation and maybe take some of the stress off the hoist mounting points. The cross member eventually got lowered by about 1" and all better.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Next is the hoist attachment points and mounts. Both use some 1/2" leg angle and are them bolted with 4 - 3/4" bolts at each point and fastened with my favorite gripco nuts. Of course all the hardware is grade 8. The bottom mount to the truck frame is sitting in such a place that I can not get to it to even put on a tack weld. So after getting everything in and all straight, I put on some temporary support pieces to keep it all together and then pulled it out to weld it up. The square piece keeps the angle square and stright to the frame. The other small piece kept the space from the hoist to the angle from changing. There was a third piece across the bottom of the angle as well. Then after the fixed cross member was beveled on the ends, it was welded up. You will see a little more on the next post about the top. But this last pic is the part that is just inside the frame rails.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
The top mount was a little easier, I just needed to locate where. I marked the angle mount plate with a paint pen and then, well I just eyeballed center. I had a little help from a big hole saw, but still, nothing too precise. Then to the drill and a hole saw to cut an opening for the tube cross member. First pic show one plate with the 1/2 circle from when I marked it on the truck. The other small circle is from using the center arbor mount of a hole saw to find center. The other plate shows the result. You can see that the tube through the plate in the third pic. The forth shows it welded in the side facing the hoist. I also had to weld a nut on the inside of the angle plate for the mounting bolt. Not ideal, but it will work just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Hoist done, time to weld the 1/4" steel plate to the bed. First some fitting. Over all my bed frame was out of square by about 3/16 of an inch. How do I know this, the steel plate was water jet cut so they are pretttty spot on... I'm ok with 3/16 off on a 16' bed. Not a whole lot to talk about. Welded around the outside every 1' or so except the back that was fully welded. There is no support under it so full weld all across. Took my time taking small 4" passes and moving down the length then go back and do it again until welded all the way across and not warped by too much heat. Then flip it over and weld to all the cross members every 1' or so to keep the whole thing from rattling. It's a lot easier to do all this with a big excavator :). Had to include plenty of flatbed aerobatics.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Aerobatics. I can't weld upside down and don't do great at vertical either. I put the bed upside down on the two trailers to support the 1/4 plate when I welded to the cross members. I'm not sure it really made a difference, but didn't want to take a chance. Last pic is on some saw horses for painting.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
PTO install. At first I wanted to install the PTO and the pump as one unit. Too heavy. in the end, it was pretty straight forward. Only big issue was draining the tanny first and then putting it back. I did make a mistake when I installed the PTO the first time so had to take it out and re-install again. Probably would have been fine, but I would kick myself three times over if it did cause a problem. Lots of tight spaces on the install. Chelsea PTO is used, but the Prince pump is new.
 

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