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Discussion Starter #1
hello all

To everyone that users synthetic oils.. WE Change our oils
in our fleet trucks around 3,000 to 4,000 miles.. never go
longer it works for us .. Will synthetic hold up better
I guess i'm trying to find out from the oil gods here ..
What does synthetic do for the real long haul.. We got 147,000 out of our Dmax with 15-40 shell Rot-T and still going strong.. Like to see feed back .. Good or bad .. This is one point i'm not up on.. Can't know everything

From steve
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Sorry I do not use synthetic oils,


I have always used dyno oils and I change it out at 3-4 K miles.


I personally do not see the advantage of keeping an oil in a motor longer that also costs more $$$$$$.


I feel that regular oil is good for the 3K miles I run it for and I believe that frequent oil changes are better,


it maybe a waste of my $$$$$ but my last gasser went 247,000 miles on dyno oil at 3K changes and never burned a drop of oil.





I will let the synthetic experts here provide the facts, but I know what works for me.





T
NYEdited by: GMC-2002-Dmax
 

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As an independent Amsoil dealer, I do have a vested interest, but I was a user long before I was a dealer.


The only con I can think of is the synthetic is more expensive up front, but if you take advantage of the lengthened drain intervals allowed with Amsoil, the cost can actually be lower.


Pros include decreased wear, cleaner internals, increased fuel mileage, and since synthetic can be formulated molecule by molecule to what is needed in a specific use instead of the compromises that are built in to all dino oils. Synthetic can be formulated to a much higher film strength and viscosity index, allowing you to start out with a much thinner oil for better cold start lubrication and still have the viscosity and film strength required at high temps and speeds.


If you, or anyone else is seriously interested, PM me, or e-mail me at: [email protected] and I will send you a catalog. I'll need your name and US Mail address.


Incidentally, I can set you up as a commercial fleet account, as it sounds as if you have a fleet of some sort.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hello GMC-2002-Dmax and all

This is why i ask.. I'm from the old school.. like you..
Other Fleet owners i know are Mixed about this... Hope we can learn more from the posts on this group

From steve
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There is a big advantage in colder climates with the lower pour point of synthetics, but in south Florida?????


Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #6
fishdmax&all

You said its better in cold climates.. How does it work in
Very hot climates

From steve
 

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Synthetic oils are touted for better performance at either extreme, hot or cold. I changed to Delvac 1 because my oil pressure was so high in the winter time. I could easily peg the gauge at 120 when temps were below 0 F. Now I rarely see over 90 so I get a warm fuzzy feeling knowing that the oil is flowing when I crank her over.


I also added an oil pan heater and wired it in with the freeze plug heater. I will leave it plugged in after I start it for a few minutes before I drive off. It still has to go 3-5 miles before I can feel heat coming from the heater regardless of how long it idles.
I drive my car more often in the winter anyways, and it fits in my heated garage. --SS
 

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Hey I noticed you were from South FL wondering where? I'd be inclined to run regular, when I worked for the City of Frederick in Maryland we ran regular and never had any diesel engine failures. They were all backed by allison autos too. Used for snow plowing and all that good stuff and worked great. I ran Mobil 1 syn in my ride and it still runs like new, we run regular in all our other cars and they are flawless. I'd vote for regular oil baised on your statment about mileage and all. Do you spend a good deal of time just sitting with the engine running or always moving? Just wondering.



Lenny
 

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I would defer to George, but the only con I can think of is price. I suspect, though that if you are changing at less than 5,000 miles, synthetics would be a waste of money.

TCEdited by: Tsckey
 

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I like the SYN because it is not going to "cook" when you shut it off hot and it leaves a film on the bearings so the next cold start has some protection during that second before the oil flows. It doesn't get real cold here in California, but I just think the Syn is overall better for my engine. I change religiously at 5K and the SYN is more expensive, but so are repairs and unlike my cars that I trade in every 75-100K, I expect this truck to go 200K. Anything I can do to help it get there is OK with me.


Now the real reason I think the SYN is better.......I have a 350 S/B in my '39 Chevy Streetrod. I don't drive it every weekend and sometimes it can sit for a month or more before I take it out for a spin. I was using Quaker State 10 w 30 religiously in all my cars. After sitting for weeks at a time, the '39 would have a slight "knock" on startup for a few seconds until the oil flowed. Bothered me a lot.


After changing to Delvac 1 in the truck and reading about the properties of the Synthetic, I decided to put some Mobil 1 in the '39. Surprisingly when I start it now after it sits several weeks it has never knocked again. I believe it's because the syn doesn't cook off the hot bearings on shut down and leaves a protective film, and flows faster on startup. All this combined seems to have stopped the cold start knock I had.


Not scientific, but works for me.....now if I just had a daily driver that I was not keeping longer than 75K, I would use the cheaper Dino and change at 3K and I do that in my other cars.


Besides if I do decide to sell my truck I can always honestly say "this sucker was "Overly-Maintained" LOL ha ha ha


Bottom line is if you are keeping it a long time spend the extra money to take extra good care of it, if you are not planning on keeping it a long time just follow the regular maintenance schedule using recomended lubricants.





Edited by: Chevysrus
 

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Discussion Starter #12
hello all

I Think i saw shell had a oil 50% Synthetic and oil base
Rotella-t .. I might be wrong got to run will check latter

Everyone have a nice dinner

How does this work

From steve
 

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I don't think any of the automotive oils are 100% synthetic. The reason being cost and compatibility issues.


Since I'm most familar with aircraft engines, I'll speak to the use of synthetic oils in them.


None of the turbine engines are approved for anything but 100% synthetic oils. Regular oil just can't take the temperatures and operating extremes seen by aircraft turbine engines. One other big factor I think in not seeing 100% synthetic oils for automotive use, is that different brands of aviation turbine oil are not compatitible. i.e. if it comes out of overhaul with Exxon in it, you better not use any Mobil. It also costs about twice as much as Mobile 1 or the other partial synthetics for automotive use.


And here's the relevant part, what do you think your turbocharger is? It's very much like a small aircraft turbine engine, so I use the partial synthetics in everything including the ATV.Edited by: Zeeb
 

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Zeeb
I don't think any of the automotive oils are 100% synthetic. The reason being cost and compatibility issues.

This simply is NOT true. Mobile 1, Amsoil all but 3 or 4 oils are 100% group 4 base stock. Capatiblity issue are not and issue. Youcan mix either of these two with any mineral oil.

Synthetic gives better starts, less wear and a quite smoother running engine.

Greg
 

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Smartfix, are you doing "Used Oil Analysis" or UOA's on your fleet? I think if you did a few, just for kicks, you would find out that even your conventional dino oil has lots of life left in it at 3-4000 miles. HD diesel oils such as Delvac 1300, Chevron Delo 400, Pennzoil Long Life and Rotella T, all are great diesel oils, that can go 10K easy. With the large fleet you have, you can save a ton of money on filters and oil by going longer on your OC intervals. Give George a call, have him do some UOAs for you.


A good oil site: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com , where George is also a sponsor.


I use synthetic in everything. Have not switched my Dmax over yet, it has a little over 3K on it. May go to Delvac 1, or Amsoil Syn Blend, as it is API approved and much cheaper than D1.Edited by: Pick
 

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LanduytG said:
Zeeb
I don't think any of the automotive oils are 100% synthetic. The reason being cost and compatibility issues.

This simply is NOT true. Mobile 1, Amsoil all but 3 or 4 oils are 100% group 4 base stock. Capatiblity issue are not and issue. Youcan mix either of these two with any mineral oil.

Synthetic gives better starts, less wear and a quite smoother running engine.

Greg

As I said above, I didn't think they were. I also said I run the synthetics in everything including the ATV, that should tell you what I think about them.


Never the less, I've been following this thread hoping for some input as to when (mileage wise) I should change over with the new truck. I know that when we rebuild piston aircraft engines, if we change the type of break in oil too soon, the rings don't seat because the cylinders glaze. Also, when I bought my Cherokee, the service manager said to put at least 5,000 miles on it before changing to the synthetic because it was too slick and I might have ring problems.


I had synthetic in the GMC I recently sold, but it was changed over long after it was broke in, and it was a gasser.


So anyone got any thoughts on how long a diesel ought to run before changing to synthetic?
 

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I changed over to Delvac 1 at 15K
 

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My used oil samples say I can go 10,000 mi. on Delvac 1 but I change at 8,000. Wear metals are all in the single digits, oxidation very low and TBN depleation is .5 from unused oil.
 
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