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Looks easy enough but, cover your bases and check/inspect/feel along the side of the frame rail after the damaged area to see if you have any ripples, bends in the steel.
If you pass inspection then it looks like a small adjustment with a BFH and a dolly to help flatten out the metal and make it straight again.

Yes, while you have the area exposed, get rid of those OEM oil cooler lines and replace them with stainless braided lines.
The oil cooler lines are one of GM's fatal design flaws
Those OEM lines are only held onto the engine block with a "C" clip and over time, engine vibration and corrosion will allow them to come loose.
When the oil cooler lines comes off the block, you will dump all of your oil and by the time the light comes on the dash, it will be too late..
 
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Discussion Starter #23
Some of our trucks had a goofy one that is a tube that goes down inside of the frame rail.
yes, that's pretty much what mine is. inside front of frame rail on drivers side.

peyton
 

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I have never seen a diesel without the finned cooler.
Gassers with hydroboost get the tube cooler.
You never know.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I have never seen a diesel without the finned cooler.
Gassers with hydroboost get the tube cooler.
You never know.
i don't remember where, but in my searching i found one which mentioned finned tubing. i can't see fins on mine but can barely see it anyway so maybe i just can't see them.

peyton
 

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I'm trying to remember which was which but out of my 3 burbs that were all 2500 6.5's one didn't have the finned cooler. Thinking it may be the 98 that I still have but could have also been the 95. I know the 96 had one.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I'm trying to remember which was which but out of my 3 burbs that were all 2500 6.5's one didn't have the finned cooler. Thinking it may be the 98 that I still have but could have also been the 95. I know the 96 had one.
maybe a late model change or maybe having to do with trim level. mine is a base level 99.

peyton
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Looks easy enough but, cover your bases and check/inspect/feel along the side of the frame rail after the damaged area to see if you have any ripples, bends in the steel.
If you pass inspection then it looks like a small adjustment with a BFH and a dolly to help flatten out the metal and make it straight again.
the core mount welded to the frame is pushed back a bit causing an indentation roughly 3/8" deep in the outside wall of the frame rail and about 3 to 5 inches from the end of the rail. i will have to remove the p/s cooler tubing to get to it but i have access to a port a power (HF copy) to try the spreader on it. maybe i should get the acetylene torch to help it along. aside from burning something, can heating it to red cause any problems? thanks,

peyton
 

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the core mount welded to the frame is pushed back a bit causing an indentation roughly 3/8" deep in the outside wall of the frame rail and about 3 to 5 inches from the end of the rail. i will have to remove the p/s cooler tubing to get to it but i have access to a port a power (HF copy) to try the spreader on it. maybe i should get the acetylene torch to help it along. aside from burning something, can heating it to red cause any problems? thanks,

peyton
You can heat it to help position it but use the heat sparingly.
 

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the core mount welded to the frame is pushed back a bit causing an indentation roughly 3/8" deep in the outside wall of the frame rail and about 3 to 5 inches from the end of the rail. i will have to remove the p/s cooler tubing to get to it but i have access to a port a power (HF copy) to try the spreader on it. maybe i should get the acetylene torch to help it along. aside from burning something, can heating it to red cause any problems? thanks,

peyton
If it where me when you pull that P/S cooler I would trash it and get a tube and fin style. If it where my luck I would pull it and put it back and shortly after it would start leaking. I also don't see how just a tube that goes inside the frame rail would cool the fluid very good.
 
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