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Discussion Starter #1
I just wanted to hear some opinions on suspension VS body lifts.

I know body is much cheaper.

How about handling?

CV angles?

maitanence?

ride?

other?

Basically i just want the truck to sit a little (3-4") higher for looks. I dont do any real off roading. Either way I would like to put 18" rims and 31-33" tires on.

Thanks for the input guys.
 

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I haven't followed body lifts for some time, but would not do it. Fan shroud and unsightly gaps are the main reasons. The body, radiator etc goes up, the engine and bumpers stay down...

My opinion (conservative) is add a leaf to the rear and bring the front up with keys and/or a leveling kit. Pitman/idler supports and fresh joints also recommended.
 

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my advice would be to find someone with a body lift and look at it. then throw up, clean yourself up and go get the suspension lift. all the body lifts i seen were in the $250 range. and look like poop. green keys are cheap than body lifts.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Kennedy;1578050; said:
I haven't followed body lifts for some time, but would not do it. Fan shroud and unsightly gaps are the main reasons. The body, radiator etc goes up, the engine and bumpers stay down...

My opinion (conservative) is add a leaf to the rear and bring the front up with keys and/or a leveling kit. Pitman/idler supports and fresh joints also recommended.
Good advice and info. forgot about the motor not moving with the radiator and stuff.

myojunk;1578166; said:
my advice would be to find someone with a body lift and look at it. then throw up, clean yourself up and go get the suspension lift. all the body lifts i seen were in the $250 range. and look like poop. green keys are cheap than body lifts.

Yep, looks like it's going to be Green Keys, Pitman/idler and Cognito braces. That should net me at least 2" maybe 3" in the front, right?

For the back, how much lift does adding a leaf give you? And how will that effect the ride? I dont want to make the ride more harsh!


Thanks again for the great info guys! Gotta love DP!
 

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Take note that keys and cranking 2 to 3 will produce a harsher ride than stock. If you do crank and use the stock shocks, make sure to get some shock extensions so you don't bottom out the shocks.
 

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I don't beleive anyone makes a body lift for our trucks. It can be done but is a PITA, because of the intercooler amongst other things. Plus the bumpers look silly with that gap.

John, look into Cognito's leveling kit. 1sic250 sells em. I think it will be perfect for what you want. Let me know I will help you install it.

Sorry I haven't called you back, I've been crazy busy at the shop. I saw your boys at valley forge bike show and the philly tattoo convention.
 

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John LegionST;1578201; said:
Good advice and info. forgot about the motor not moving with the radiator and stuff.




Yep, looks like it's going to be Green Keys, Pitman/idler and Cognito braces. That should net me at least 2" maybe 3" in the front, right?

For the back, how much lift does adding a leaf give you? And how will that effect the ride? I dont want to make the ride more harsh!


Thanks again for the great info guys! Gotta love DP!
Almost forgot the Bilsteins. We keep all in stock but the springs.

The 3500 SRW has an extra leaf. In my opinion, this setup rides as good or better than a 2500 due to a better matched first stage spring rate. The key is to get a bit of separation between the solid bar leaf that engages the second stage. All of your free leaves can be easily removed and re-arched a bit for increased ride height and better separation. Jump on the rear bumper once and you'll see just how wussy the rear spring rate is on the first stage...
 

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8.1gasser sent me this blurb about the body lift. He HAS one on his gas truck (which if you look in his garage, is SWEET) AND on duramax equipped friends' trucks.....

PA#'s are
Body lift--183
Gap guards--6537

I have a couple pics of the fan shroud...which is basically 4" bolt with a 3"i.d. pipe as the spacer, a couple washers and that was all...just make up 4 of them..the heater hose is the one closest to the motor.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...5_116_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...5_117_full.jpg
IMO if youa ren't doing extensive offroading there is no reason for a susp. lift unless you just want one.

BL Pros (IMO):
>Cheaper (when compared to a true legit susp lift that doesn't screw up drivetrain geometry)
>Susp. and steering compenents stay in stock positions thereby keeping wear and ride comfort the same as stock
>Achieves the look and stance desired.
>Center of gravity is closer to stock than that of a susp. lifted truck due to the fact that most of the weight (susp., engine, frame, etc.) stays at factory height and just the body and some of its attachments are raised whereas the susp. lift raises everything up. This to me means its safer, at least somewhat so.

BL Cons:
>If gap guards (including bumper relocation brackets which are typically supplied in the kits or can at least be purchased seperately) AND step bars aren't used the amount of frame showing and the gaps can be unsightly. This is obviously fixable though.
>Gap in fan shroud. Only really an issue for overheating LLY's and those that tow heavy maybe. For the common person, this likely is a non-issue.


Cranking Pros:
>cheapest of all options

Cranking Cons:
>No guarantty that the cranking will yield enough lift on your truck. Amount of lift achievable via cranking the torsion bars seems to vary from truck to truck. Some can get 3" some can only get 1.5"
>Poor ride if lifted too high
>Poor susp. and steering component geometry if lifted too high thereby increasing wear and decreasing ride comfort


True Susp. Lift Pros:
>Achieves the goal at hand
>Ride is like or better than stock (this can be dependant upon the lift kit purcahsed according to reports on here)

True Susp. Lift Cons:
>Cost
>higher center of gravity




There's my two percent of a dollar. :D
 

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they do make a body lift for the duramax and i think they look pretty good im going to be getting one next week i had a body lift on my old truck and i loved it they new lifts come with bumper relocation brackets so they dont look stock
 

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Depends on what you want to spend. Cheap, go body other wise explore the suspension lifts. Cranking your torsion bars will only level the truck, not lift the whole truck.
 

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Lots of guys on here run body lifts and none of them have complained about them yet. The only real big reason I can see not to run one would be if your truck got hot already, moving the shroud would make it worse. Also you'd need a custom GN hitch, if you needed one.

Right now I have my truck cranked with a block in back, and sure it works ok, but even with better shocks and spacers it doesn't ride as good as it could. Also after 20k miles this way my pitman and idler arms were shot, and the inner tie rod ends. All getting replaced tomorrow actually. If I had the money I would go with a suspension lift in the first place. If you want to spend a little money on it a body lift would work fine IMO... Although for the size of tires you want to run, just slight cranking would fit them.
 
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