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Discussion Starter #1
Last night, truck decided it would just make grinding noises instead of start which started the starter replacement. I hope the flywheel is still good.

So I've driven this truck 8K miles since I bought it and fairly sure the starter bolt situation was exactly like I just found it the whole time. One entire bolt is sheared off at the block and gone. One had two nuts on it but the head was gone. And the front bracket bolt was in there, but I unscrewed the bolt with my fingers and when I pulled it out, the there are two places on that front bracket bolt where the threads have been smoothed out. I was yanking on that upper nut on the starter bolt pretty hard, then tapping it with a hammer, then yanking...etc for a good 45 minutes and nothing except lightly chewed up fingers. I assume its normal lefty loosey??

So I got new bolts on order and got an advanced auto starter waiting in the box.


So here is my question. How would you guys get this out? I sprayed some PB blaster up there 2 hours before I tried to remove it. I just sprayed some again and will try again in the morning.

I see two real options and either way I have to do one of the following with the trans cooler lines since they are directly under the bolt.
1. Use a ziptie and tighten the lines 1/2" out of the way(kinda risky as pretty close to drill bit)
2. Disconnect the lines at the trans and ziptie out of the way
3. Remove lines completely

I assume 2 & 3 require to flush the trans?

Once the lines are out of the way, I would first try the bolt extractor (although i don't expect it to work with the apparent torque thats needed as my drill is just a basic 20V craftsman). I expect to have to drill the bolt material off to get the starter off. Hopefully my bits are long enough.

Any tips to loosen that or shear it off like the other? Can't remove the starter as is.

Starter bolt.jpg
 

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Is it the double nut you cannot get off?
If so you need 2 wrenches, hold the upper one with one wrench and remove
the bottom nut with the other. The longer the wrenches the fewer knuckles
will get busted. A socket with a long breakover will also help.
 

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Super Moderator Eco-Logistical
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Once tension is off the bolt will unscrew by hand... unless it's extremely rusty.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
No. I tightened them together just today and was using a wrench on the top one to try to twist the whole bolt (now stud without the head) loose. Thought I'd give the two nut stud removal method a try. No luck so far. On there pretty tight. If i wanted just the nuts off, no problem. The old bolt/stud is what is stuck.
 

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Ok, I get it now.
So if you remove the nuts the starter will not drop off?
 

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My 6.5 scared a prius
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no it wont cause the transmission belly pan is in the way.... what i have done before is welded one of the nuts right onto the threaded rod, but keep the second nut on there in case the other nut breaks part of the threaded rod, and then let cool completely, then tighten the other nut to the one you welded for a little more thread support. use a 1/2" breaker bar with the proper size socket... impact socket if you have one, less chance of splitting under pressure... then tug on it. dont use fast hard tug cause you can actually snap it up right at the engine which sucks. start pulling gradually then harder till it starts breaking loose. hope this helps
 

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Why are you not using the correct starter bolts? Is that rod welded in or something? Guessing you had block damage? Im a little confused.
 

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Really, that "bolt" looks more like a stud to me, somebody's repair job.
That's why I would get the starter off, that stud could be welded to the block or
who know what. Just unbolt the TC cover, it probably will not come all the way off due to the crossover pipe but should allow the starter to drop down. Then see what you got.
 
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Why are you not using the correct starter bolts? Is that rod welded in or something? Guessing it had block damage? Im a little confused. The transmission won't require a flush if you disconnect the lines because the filter picks up the fluid from the pan just will have to top off. I would just pull them to the side gently and bungee them away because unless they are very rusty you'll be fine. if you can get the flexplate cover off wont the starter drop down I forget if the bell is in the way. If you cant get those nuts off that rod then you have to cut them off. Might be a pain if it won't drop all the way may have to then cut the bolt above the starter if it drops enough. Then again there is the factor of having enough room.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Dont have a welder Crazy but Id think JB Weld will be sufficient for this?

Don't have room for a socket without removing the trans cooler lines. I have a racheting box wrench I've been using, either 8" or 10"
 

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Take the two nuts off, grab a adjustable plier, lock it and start to yank it off.

Or, take one of the nuts, thread it until the bolt matches the stud ontop and jb welb them together, and wrench it off... If you're lucky, this will work.

If the stud snaps in half, you have to pick it out by hand. Cross your fingers that it doesn't happen.
 

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My 6.5 scared a prius
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jb weld wont hold it enough with the torque u need for it. been there tried that.. in crumples the jb weld into pieces. if you can, loosen the nuts away from the starter slightly... then tighten them as much as you can. take a flat punch thats got a slightly sharpened end and punch the center of the threaded rod... it will make an egg-lobe impression and pretty much lock the nuts on and make them so they wont come off the thread easily which should give you an advantage for some arm power. if u have room between the frame and the body for a wrench to get to the starter, use a second wrench and slide it on the wrench your using on the nuts. it will give you length for torque, and better grabbing power. then use the TOP nut closest to the starter and try to loosen. i know the trans lines are STUPIDLY in the way... thats why when i just rebuilt my transmission and put it up.. i rebent the lines slightly so i didnt kink them anywhere and made a clearing for the starter bolts and the starter... pain in the a$$ lemme tell ya.
 

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If you have a broken starter bolt I would use a left hand twist drill bit(s) to drill it out. Hopefully they will catch and back the broken part out.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I removed the crossover and slid out the TC cover. The block had cracked by the outer bolt and someone welded things together (no wonder why I couldnt budge it). I believe the started jumped out of position by only being held on by with the one stud and the front one being loose.

I'm thinking I can slide away the cooler lines and drop the starter straight down. Drill out the sheared off bolt and reinstall using the stud, one correct starter bolt and the front bracket bolt. Fairly sure that'll get be back running. Since the crossover is off, might as well install a few other things at this time. Flexplate has some wear on some teeth but appears usable..yes?
Here are some pics.

T1.jpg

t2.jpg

t3.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Upon further review, it looks that even with the trans lines out, it does not have enough clearance as it sits to drop straight down as it hits part of the suspension...And dont really want to notch anything. Cutting the stud and trying to weld it back together for the proper length is an option but would take a skilled metal worker.

Ideally, If I could get a drill/bolt extractor bit up by where the other bolt sheared off, I could just reuse this starter. Any sort of drill extensions out there?
 

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Super Moderator Eco-Logistical
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The problem you are going to have is even with two studs installed, you will always have issues wi the starter on that block. The stock bolts have a 1" knurled section on the bolt that perfectly aligns the starter with the block. With the threads all the way to the face of the block ear there is nowhere for the stock knurling to sit in the block... So a stock bolt would sit 1/2" from holding the starter to the block...

Not sure what to recommend on this damaged block...
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Well, looks like I won't be able to use 1 stock bolt. I screwed out the sheared off piece and placed in the new factory bolt only to realize it doesnt fit. There is a helicoil in the 2nd starter hole. I'll be off to lowes to get me a correct sized bolt to fit that helicoil. I have the front bracket bolt coming in at the dealership on Tuesday. I guess I'll find out then if it all does back together or if I'll need a new motor.
 

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I guess it depends what the truck is for and how much you use it. Wouldnt be going on any road trips. If you need to depend on this thing then talk about living on the edge. This really sucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, I checked with the previous owner if he had done starter work. He said he never touched the starter in the year he owned it before me because it looked new. Which is good news as I need to lift the engine up to replace the starter on this one if it goes thanks to that stud being there.

I found a new 1/2" -13 grade 8 4" bolt that fit the helicoil and got a front bracket bolt (one that came out was stripped a bit and not the original) from the dealer. Done about 3 starts so far and seems fine. Looks like I should be good until the starter gives up internally. With that said, I'm going to start putting money away for a new motor...
 

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Well, looks like I won't be able to use 1 stock bolt. I screwed out the sheared off piece and placed in the new factory bolt only to realize it doesnt fit. There is a helicoil in the 2nd starter hole. I'll be off to lowes to get me a correct sized bolt to fit that helicoil. I have the front bracket bolt coming in at the dealership on Tuesday. I guess I'll find out then if it all does back together or if I'll need a new motor.
Humm I seem to have read somewhere the stock bolt wouldn't work on your block... now, where did I see that:whistle:
 
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