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Do not unbolt the IP, otherwise you'll be doing TDCO too.... Removal of the lower intake is necessary to remove all the hardlines from the backside of the IP. IIRC, theres an order for hardline removal, more so for installation so you dont work yourself into a corner.

If you haven't already. Good time to replace all the rubber hoses under the intake while you have unfettered access.
3- 24" long 1/4" ID fuel hose, IP supply, WIF petcock and WIF drain (-8" for main return hose under FFM housing.
1- 24" long 3/8" ID fuel hose, FFM supply

Might even want to rebuild the FFM housing while its out, consist of a couple o-rings... :confuzeld
 

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Hard to say from the video if that noise is metallic or just air "puffing" but I have a similar issue. Mine is a puff through the intake, and I suspect a valve or lifter sticking. If a compression test is inconclusive, you can pull the intake and (run to) see which cylinder is the culprit, then tear down from there. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Hey Heavy,

I am back on the wagon. Took a couple of days off to regroup. I pulled all the injectors. I'm going to harbor freight to pickup a diesel pressure kit. :HiHi: I'll post the numbers as soon as I get them.

Do not unbolt the IP, otherwise you'll be doing TDCO too.... Removal of the lower intake is necessary to remove all the hardlines from the backside of the IP. IIRC, theres an order for hardline removal, more so for installation so you dont work yourself into a corner.

If you haven't already. Good time to replace all the rubber hoses under the intake while you have unfettered access.
3- 24" long 1/4" ID fuel hose, IP supply, WIF petcock and WIF drain (-8" for main return hose under FFM housing.
1- 24" long 3/8" ID fuel hose, FFM supply

Might even want to rebuild the FFM housing while its out, consist of a couple o-rings... :confuzeld
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Hey Guys,


I have some numbers now. My battery ran low while testing 5, and still need 7. I have the charger on it. Here are the numbers. Is this motor done?? :Whoa:

2- 390
4- 80psi 100 psi wet
6- 380
8- 380

1- 360
3- 330
5- 290 low battery
7- ????
 

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Lets not get hasty..

IIRC, cylinder #3 is on the drivers side, 2nd from the front. Clean injector was found on the passenger side, #4 I take it.. hmmm opposite of..

Cylinder number, Firing order

The PCM has the ability to derate or turn off individual cylinder(s)..

Might want to go 'head and pull drivers valve cover while your this deep, if you havent already.

Did you do your comp test with the rocker cover(s) off or...... Curious if you were able to observe the valvetrain, signs of a flat cam lobe or excessively lose push rods that may be bent.

Sugggest you keep track of which injector(s) came from which cylinder(s)?
A quick pop test may reveal faulty injector(s) behind the cylinder imbalances.




The compression test on 6.5s are often misleading, dare I say inaccurate especially if your not on top of s'it..

The engine is supposed to be brought up to operating temp before the test. Good luck removing the injectors or glowplugs without burning the pooh out yourself. I would suggest strategically placing a space heater to pre-heat the block and oil pan (oil) an hour or two before you begin as to maintain a consistant elevated engine temp throughout the test..

The batteries must be fully charged so that the starter spins the engine over with extreme ease. I would top 'em off between each cylinder if not every other.
The engine needs to turn over half dozen revolutions or more per test. Doing a leak down test also?

Several things can account for the low #s. bent pushrod, bent valve, cracked valve and/or seat, blown head gasket, etc etc etc. all not necessarily terminal ...

FWIW. COMPRESSION TEST
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Hey Heavy,

Thanks for staying with the thread. I just remembered that I have a block heater. I don't need it in socal, but the truck came from lake shasta. :HiHi:
I have the valve cover off on the even bank side that is giving me trouble. The rockers are moving, but I had my wife looking at them when I was cranking for the compression test. If I remove the two bolts on the rockers. Can I safely check to see if the rockers rods are bent? Let me know. :clap:
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
I was reading about doing the leak test over the weekend. Should I check the rocker rods first, or do the leak test?

Lets not get hasty..

IIRC, cylinder #3 is on the drivers side, 2nd from the front. Clean injector was found on the passenger side, #4 I take it.. hmmm opposite of..

Cylinder number, Firing order

The PCM has the ability to derate or turn off individual cylinder(s)..

Might want to go 'head and pull drivers valve cover while your this deep, if you havent already.

Did you do your comp test with the rocker cover(s) off or...... Curious if you were able to observe the valvetrain, signs of a flat cam lobe or excessively lose push rods that may be bent.

Sugggest you keep track of which injector(s) came from which cylinder(s)?
A quick pop test may reveal faulty injector(s) behind the cylinder imbalances.




The compression test on 6.5s are often misleading, dare I say inaccurate especially if your not on top of s'it..

The engine is supposed to be brought up to operating temp before the test. Good luck removing the injectors or glowplugs without burning the pooh out yourself. I would suggest strategically placing a space heater to pre-heat the block and oil pan (oil) an hour or two before you begin as to maintain a consistant elevated engine temp throughout the test..

The batteries must be fully charged so that the starter spins the engine over with extreme ease. I would top 'em off between each cylinder if not every other.
The engine needs to turn over half dozen revolutions or more per test. Doing a leak down test also?

Several things can account for the low #s. bent pushrod, bent valve, cracked valve and/or seat, blown head gasket, etc etc etc. all not necessarily terminal ...

FWIW. COMPRESSION TEST
 

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If you remove the rocker shafts you can check the push rods, just roll them on something flat, you'll see quick if any are bent..

While all the shafts are off you could do a leak down on each cly while everything should be closed...

If all shows good thus far, put rocker's back on, then warm the motor & check compression...
 

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Remember which order the push rods came out from, or you're gonna have a hard time after. :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
The rods that are for that cylinder are fine, and not bent. I tried to do the leak down test, but need the leak down kit from harbor freight to attach the air supply. My wife gets to go this time, because she is already by it. :bawl: missed opportunity to go to harbor freight.
 

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For s'its and giggles, test nearby cylinders...

Your leak down test certainly indicates you have a cracked head or a bent valve or.... Its not necessarily terminal (to early to tell) but further inspection is necessary. Time to pull the head, and what you do to one side, I suggest you do to both...
Right now, best case scenario, head gaskets and valve job... May need new heads.. Best not to speculate until you see what your up against.


But before I got started tearing the heads off.. I would quickly bolt on the rocker arms without the pushrods, and put the air to the suspected cylinder. Then using a crowbar, carefully cycle that cylinders exhaust valve open and close by hand to see or feel if its possibly hanging up indicating it may be bent, and in doing so maybe the air will help dislodge any carbon buildup that could of flaked off when removing the glow plugs or injectors and now preventing the valve from fully seating (yea wishful thinking).


Good Luck..
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Do you think it's to rash at this point to just pull the head? I have the money for either a head rebuild or get the upgraded heads.

To manually lift the valve, do I reach down with the crowbar to lift the valve. Is there a ridge to catch it.
 

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Rash,, not really.. If your prepared to do BOTH HEADS, GET BUSY.. Well be here if you need us..

The spring will lift the valve to close, all your doin is compressing the spring to 'open' the valve slightly, hopefully dislodging some carbon buildup crud so the valve can then fully seat. as I said wishful thinking..
 

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Sorry for my bad English.
if you AT gearbox, check that your turbine bolts are tight and secure. My wasn t , there was 1 open about 3mm, 2nd was finger loose and that let f
lexplate flexing,knocking and do another funny mechanical sounds. Symptoms sounds like same to me. Imposible to locate origin of the sound. Whole engine room is full of that knocking. My Suburban have removable cover under turbine/flexplate, so that is easy to check before you tear up whole motor. Sorry once more time my bad English​

 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
hey sotakoira55,

I was thinking the same thing. I did change the flexplate 5000 miles ago. The cylinder has a massive leak so its probably there, but I was considering what you mentioned. The head is all unbolted. I'm ready to break the seal today and see whats up. Wish me luck... :clap:





Sorry for my bad English.
if you AT gearbox, check that your turbine bolts are tight and secure. My wasn t , there was 1 open about 3mm, 2nd was finger loose and that let f
lexplate flexing,knocking and do another funny mechanical sounds. Symptoms sounds like same to me. Imposible to locate origin of the sound. Whole engine room is full of that knocking. My Suburban have removable cover under turbine/flexplate, so that is easy to check before you tear up whole motor. Sorry once more time my bad English​

 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Hey Heavychevy,

The results are in. It looks like the intake valve is chipped. Let me know if you need anymore pictures. It looks like the best case happened. :whistle: Here are the pictures and video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pFnSewLW2VU







Rash,, not really.. If your prepared to do BOTH HEADS, GET BUSY.. Well be here if you need us..

The spring will lift the valve to close, all your doin is compressing the spring to 'open' the valve slightly, hopefully dislodging some carbon buildup crud so the valve can then fully seat. as I said wishful thinking..
 
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