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Discussion Starter #1
How much power can it handle.I was told under 500rwhp.Is this accurate? I see guys on here making well over that with a stock turbo. I don't want to blow mine up but I'd like to get 500rwhp without having to upgrade turbos ............. yet :D .
 

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you will need a intake, exhaust, liftpump, big head, and a strong tune( tts, ppe westers} with a tranny upgrade to get their
 

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My question is will it blow up with 500rwhp,not how to get 500rwhp. I have that figured out already. I have the VA 200+ which alone with intake and exhaust dyno's between 450-480 on JK's dyno,I'm getting lift pumps and I'm going to stack a programmer. from my research that will easily take me over 500rwhp. And by the way I have a 6spd with a SBC DDC and since 6spd's dyno higher anyway it shouldn't be too hard.
 

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it can be done , but will take some creative thinking with a hand shaker, the factory turbo is taxed at about 32 to 34psi running dangerously , 30 is considered safe , but you can have them blow at any time , It is a gamble you take running high hp tunes . That's why I went aftermarket , (already grenaded one )
 

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Why do people still consider stacking tunes on an LB7? You end up spending more $$$ than it takes to purchase a single high hp tune and then there is the potential driveability issues, timing rattle, too much fuel, too much boost, and the list goes on. If you don't believe me take a look at Jeremy Moss's numbers when he switched from the bastard stack to the TTS Extreme. Dyno numbers are cool but they don't tell the entire story!

Last I looked turbos were not rated in HP
 

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I have a big tune,maybe not quite as much as a TTS or PPE Hot but a TTS definately won't work with a 6spd.I know a guy that tryed.It revs to 4500+rpm under shifts :badidea: . And I don't know about the PPE.
 

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isn't BMDMAX making 800hp w/ stock hairdryer?
 

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nope it was a fart fan....i think it was 850hp and 1634lb trq
 

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Your turbo isnt rated in HP. You dont want to over speed it.
 

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hp will not kill a turbo , Overspinning the centershaft will 34 psi to 38 psi-:t happens , It has been proven here :badidea: , (I know first hand at 38 to 40 they dont last):mad:
 

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hp will not kill a turbo , Overspinning the centershaft will 34 psi to 38 psi-:t happens , It has been proven here :badidea: , (I know first hand at 38 to 40 they dont last):mad:
Depending on altitude, RH, no more than 34 to be safe. Beyond that, it's your arse cochise.
 

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Depending on altitude, RH, no more than 34 to be safe. Beyond that, it's your arse cochise.
Even though this has been said many of time.... that's pre IC PSI correct? Or is that post? There has to be some loss through the IC....
 

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hp will not kill a turbo , Overspinning the centershaft will 34 psi to 38 psi-:t happens , It has been proven here :badidea: , (I know first hand at 38 to 40 they dont last):mad:
It's time we start adding oil temp gauges to these hot rods. Monitor post turbo oil.
 

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And my 2-cent's as far as running the bastard stack,and it not workin as well as a single tuner,I disagree, maybe on diff. engine models, but as far as the lb7 goes seems to work pretty good..Just look at BMDMAX's numbers!! Over 800 RWHP,W/ the bastard stack.Maybe it's just his combination that like's that set-up, who know's, But there's alot of people runnin that stack!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The reason I'd stack so I could have a switchable box which is why I got a VA and I'm told the PPE stacks very well with it. I just don't want to blow the turbo up because I have a note to pay off at the bank this year.Once that's done I will have more $$$$ to play with :D .
 

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Even though this has been said many of time.... that's pre IC PSI correct? Or is that post? There has to be some loss through the IC....
Post CAC, measured at the INTAKE (SD intake works well or drill and tap)

1 word of caution, the higher you boost, the easier it is to bark your turbo:help2:
 

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It's time we start adding oil temp gauges to these hot rods. Monitor post turbo oil.

Im all for gauges and having another one in my truck , it already looks like a airplane ****pit . more you can monitor the better:ro)
 

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Post CAC, measured at the INTAKE (SD intake works well or drill and tap)

1 word of caution, the higher you boost, the easier it is to bark your turbo:help2:
Huh, I personally always thought that was at the turbo. I know you've done some IC (or CAC for you northerners up there) ):h (j/k) testing, so what kind of pressure loss is there through the stock IC? Right now my truck is really only running at 27ish and I feel a couple more psi should help it out. I'll probably pick up a Banks Big head to turn it up a bit, and hopefully control the spike's in between shifts as well. I suppose to help with turbo bark you could always pick up a BD Turbo Guard aka Blow-off valve.
 

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Huh, I personally always thought that was at the turbo. I know you've done some IC (or CAC for you northerners up there) ):h (j/k) testing, so what kind of pressure loss is there through the stock IC? Right now my truck is really only running at 27ish and I feel a couple more psi should help it out. I'll probably pick up a Banks Big head to turn it up a bit, and hopefully control the spike's in between shifts as well. I suppose to help with turbo bark you could always pick up a BD Turbo Guard aka Blow-off valve.
All the testing with boost has always been Post CAC. Simply because CAC heat soak and pressure drop can be mitigating factors in the actual boost 'seen' on the gauge. As well, Ambient air temp/density also plays a role in pre CAC boost.

So in choosing a reference point, I wanted the least differential of all those factors. To that end, Post CAC at the manifold made the most sense.
 
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