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Discussion Starter #1
i went to start my truck the other day after driving it for about 25min with no problem. when i started it the started wouldn't stop "starting" i guess...wouldn't stop clicking but the engine did turn over and start. and the starter kept clicking...i waited about 45 seconds for it to stop and it didn't so i took the keys out (therefor turning the engine off) and it was still "starting". eventually (prolly 3 min later) the starter stopped starting and a lil smoke came from that area...my guess is it overheated.
my first instinct was i blew the solenoid. but i let it sit for about an hour and then -being a stubborn redhead- started it agian, with no problems.
now i am thinking it may be the relay on the starter? maybe?

any help is greatly appreciated and thanks in advance....
 

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Well, either something is wrong with the ignition switch wiring or the starter solenoid got stuck... I think it was probably the solenoid.
 

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DZLburban;1588373; said:
i went to start my truck the other day after driving it for about 25min with no problem. when i started it the started wouldn't stop "starting" i guess...it may be the relay on the starter? maybe?
The solenoid or the linkage to the starter-drive can both cause that problem. The solenoid has a pair of contacts - and whenever they touch each other - the starter will try to crank - regardless if the key is on, or off. There is a metal plunger that slides back and forth by magnetism - and when slid all the way back - the starter-drive slides into place and a button gets hit by the plunger that closes the contacts. So, any hang-up in the linkage, or where the plunger slides - will keep the starter cranking.
Also, if the contacts themselves have gotten real pitted, they can temporarily braze-themselves together.
There is no way to know for sure without pulling it apart and actually looking at the parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
and the solenoids are connected to these starters so.... i've never taken a starter or a solenoid apart? worth it? or just buy a new starter?
 

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DZLburban;1594936; said:
and the solenoids are connected to these starters so.... i've never taken a starter or a solenoid apart? worth it? or just buy a new starter?
solenoids are easy. its just a bendix arm inside a tube. two(?) screws and they come right off.

starters...not so easy. i mean they come apart great (2 bolts), but if the armature comes out of the windings your finished.

solenoids are cheap...start there. if it doesn't help take the whole unit in as a core :cool:
 

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If cranking speed is good the starter is probably fine so just replace the solenoid. They are mounted right on the starter because the solenoid also moves a lever which engages the starter drive. Sometimes they can actually be repaired... Take it apart and see what it looks like. They are very simple and easy to work on , just don't break the little wires inside the solenoid if you decide to take the plastic end cover off.

Also, check and make sure the mechanism which engages the drive gear is not stuck and moves freely before you decide whether to replace the solenoid or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
humm

the_other_matt;1594955; said:
solenoids are easy. its just a bendix arm inside a tube. two(?) screws and they come right off.

starters...not so easy. i mean they come apart great (2 bolts), but if the armature comes out of the windings your finished.

solenoids are cheap...start there. if it doesn't help take the whole unit in as a core :cool:

i was told that the solenoids on these starters are attached in a manner that you can only buy the starter/solenoid as a hole...have i been lied to? (that happens a lot when a woman is in an auto store and they think they can pull one on me...)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks

High Sierra 2500;1595006; said:
If cranking speed is good the starter is probably fine so just replace the solenoid. They are mounted right on the starter because the solenoid also moves a lever which engages the starter drive. Sometimes they can actually be repaired... Take it apart and see what it looks like. They are very simple and easy to work on , just don't break the little wires inside the solenoid if you decide to take the plastic end cover off.

Also, check and make sure the mechanism which engages the drive gear is not stuck and moves freely before you decide whether to replace the solenoid or not.

thanks ya'll. :D
i will get on this this weekend (weather permitting-cuz i work outside...no more barn) :(
 

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DZLburban;1596379; said:
i was told that the solenoids on these starters are attached in a manner that you can only buy the starter/solenoid as a hole...have i been lied to? (that happens a lot when a woman is in an auto store and they think they can pull one on me...)
Somebody is jerking your chain. There are a few types of German and Japanese starters that have the solenoids soldered on - and they are more work. But - the Delcos used on 6.2s/6.5s - the older direct-drives as well as the newer gear-reductions - have solenoids the pop off very easily. Remove two screws and twist counter-clockwise a bit - and it's off. Also, the contacts inside are made to be reversed and used twice - so often you can fix the solenoid with no new parts needed.
 

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Yeah, the solenoids come right off and almost every auto parts store carries them. There are actually three screws you need to remove...Two that mount the solenoid to the starter and one that connects the starter to the output of the solenoid. Then you just rotate the solenoid a bit to disenage the tab on the bottom of the solenoid from the slot in the starter and it pulls right off. There is a fairly large (although not very strong) spring inside which will come out as well.
 

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High Sierra 2500;1596787; said:
Yeah, the solenoids come right off and almost every auto parts store carries them. There are actually three screws you need to remove...Two that mount the solenoid to the starter and one that connects the starter to the output of the solenoid. .
The worst problem is usually the main stud where the battery cable hooks. It is a type of carriage-bolt and is kept from turning with the nut - by being locked into the plastic cap. Often the cap will break before the nut comes loose from the stud.
Many places - e.g. NAPA carry solenoid parts kits that come with a new cap. Funny since the kits cost as much now as an entire solenoid did a few years ago. I used to buy new OEM solenoids for $12 each through Deere Company.
Another thing to be careful of if using a complete Delco solenoid is the large return-spring. It is different for gas or diesel - but Delco often packs a new gas-only spring in the box. In that case, you have to reuse the original spring.
 

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The worst problem is usually the main stud where the battery cable hooks. It is a type of carriage-bolt and is kept from turning with the nut - by being locked into the plastic cap. Often the cap will break before the nut comes loose from the stud.
:exactly: If you are careful and work slowly it will come apart most of the time, but every now and then you get one that is so rusty that it just breaks the cap.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
PROBLEM SOLVED thanks ya'll!

was the solenoid. bought a new solenoid for about 10bucks and changed it out. had it cranked and worked fine. hope ths stays fixed.
 
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