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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went to run an errand this evening and after 20ish minutes truck stalled. Waited about 30 seconds and would restart and run about 15 seconds and stall again had to do this several times to get home. In the middle of this I tried a different pmd and had no change. Temp outside is about 85 degrees. Diddn't have this problem this morning or after work. Only thing I have done is filled the tank. Fuel pressure is about 9psi at idle and 7-8 psi while driving. I haven't checked for air in fuel yet going to check that now. Any Ideas? Every thread I have seen that pertains to my problems never seems to have a report back on if the problem is fixed.
 

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Went to run an errand this evening and after 20ish minutes truck stalled. Waited about 30 seconds and would restart and run about 15 seconds and stall again had to do this several times to get home. In the middle of this I tried a different pmd and had no change. Temp outside is about 85 degrees. Diddn't have this problem this morning or after work. Only thing I have done is filled the tank. Fuel pressure is about 9psi at idle and 7-8 psi while driving. I haven't checked for air in fuel yet going to check that now. Any Ideas? Every thread I have seen that pertains to my problems never seems to have a report back on if the problem is fixed.
Do that check for air in fuel and go through all grounds
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No air in fuel grounds appear to be ok. Its pretty much dark and I had to make a decision on pulling a battery out of it and throwing it in my other 95 so I can atleast get to work tomorrow. Damn thing has sat for 2 years and fired right up like it had just been sitting over night lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I should also state by stalling it is like you shut the key off. No surging idling rough just off. After sitting the 30ish seconds starts up like nothing is wrong. Also not showing any codes.
 

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Did you try the PMD using the same extension?
Are you sure the spare PMD is working good?
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes the pmd I tried is working good last i knew. I ran it roughly 2 weeks to make sure. No I have it on an extension that I purchased at the same time. I wanted to make sure everything was in working order before I went back to the setup that I was running before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The one that is currently hooked up is a dtech. I have no idea how old it is was on the truck when I bought it. My spare is a grey Stanadyne
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So a small update. Doesnt' matter what ambient temp or engine temp is. Tried running it this morning after I put the battery back in ran the 15-30 seconds and shut off. I did notice that when it shut down I do not have a check engine light lit. I have check gauges and the battery light but no check engine light. I Did some reading last night and some people claim this is a pmd problem. Is this true? I still do not have any codes being set when stalling. I also did notice when it is about to shut down it stumbles clears up then stops.
 

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Try disconnecting the PMD from the relocation harness and connect the PMD to the OEM harness on the IP.
This will rule out a bad PMD relocation harness
 

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How did you check codes? If by shorting A and B ports, using blinking CEL method. Did you get a code 12?
No CEL with ignition switch on, engine not running means. You either have a burned out bulb. Or problems with the PCM.
 
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So a small update. Doesnt' matter what ambient temp or engine temp is. Tried running it this morning after I put the battery back in ran the 15-30 seconds and shut off. I did notice that when it shut down I do not have a check engine light lit. I have check gauges and the battery light but no check engine light. I Did some reading last night and some people claim this is a pmd problem. Is this true? I still do not have any codes being set when stalling. I also did notice when it is about to shut down it stumbles clears up then stops.
So at this point when you turn the key to run mode is a check engine light visible now?

I’ve seen cases before on a previous truck I used to work on some years ago that if you don’t get a check engine light I’ve discovered the pink wire for the ecm B fuse to be broken leaving the fuse panel under the hood.The wire is a small gauge so it’s a likely culprit.I did a continuity test after getting a wiring diagram going from the ecm to the fuse panel for the ecm B fuse and ecm 1 fuse circuit.I disconnected the wiring connectors from the ecm and then did the continuity checks and found the broken wire inside the black wire loom.

After the wire was reconnected the check engine light was visible and the engine was able to start.This was also a 95 model truck.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have a check engine light key on engine off. When it stalls the check engine light does not light up. I checked codes with my scanner. I also used q paper clip and all I got was 12. I have not tried plugging directly into it harness but have tried a new known working harness
 

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If you are getting a 12. Then that means the PCM is communicating and doing self diagnostics so it is most likely ok if there are no other PCM related codes.
You may have a wiring short like Diesel olds said. or Ground issues, Ignition switch. Also check for air in fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If you are getting a 12. Then that means the PCM is communicating and doing self diagnostics so it is most likely ok if there are no other PCM related codes.
You may have a wiring short like Diesel olds said. or Ground issues, Ignition switch. Also check for air in fuel.
I do not believe I have any air in the fuel. I have clear line on the return and see no bubbles. In one of my previous post I did mention I do have a check engine light when I turn the key on but don't when it stalls which I think I should. How would someone test the ignition switch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Also just got to thinking if I was possibly a dumbass and put gas in the tank instead of diesel how would it act? Ive never been around a diesel that has had gas in it. I don't think I did that but I am second guessing myself since it happened within a mile of filling up. I cannot for the life of me find the receipt to confirm that I did or did not screw up.
 

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Also just got to thinking if I was possibly a dumbass and put gas in the tank instead of diesel how would it act? Ive never been around a diesel that has had gas in it. I don't think I did that but I am second guessing myself since it happened within a mile of filling up. I cannot for the life of me find the receipt to confirm that I did or did not screw up.
Disconnect the fuel line at the lift pump and use the lift pump to pump some fuel from the tank into a clear container and let it sit gas is lighter and will sit on top
 
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You can also Pop your gas cap and take a sniff. If you put a good amount of gas in. It will smell like gas.
 
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You can also take a sample from the FFM. Open the T Valve and take a jar sample from the water in fuel drain line
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well I found my receipt and I didn't put gas in it. So that is good news. I did plug my pmd direct to the ip harness and had no change. I cleaned the grounds on the rear of the engine and no change. Im going to double check that I haven't missed any.
 

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More than likely you are having an electrical problem.
What is condition of the WIF and fuel heater wires and connectors at the FFM.
Look for missing insulation where they enter the FFM.
Try unplugging them, will run fine and not affect operation.
The PCM can turn off stuff if there is a short, it has solid state circuit breakers.
It will automatically reset, but I would not let it go on doing this for long.
As a test - unplug the BARO, IAT, MAP, and ECT sensors and see if it still dies.
 
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