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Discussion Starter #1
When I was replacing the fuel hose I learned why I'd had some leaks at the bleed valve. Someone filed off the barbs in the past. Anyone know a source for new valves?
 

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I have used this company for years for Air, Fuel and water products

McMaster-Carr

Also try your local Napa store.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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Discussion Starter #9
As I mentioned, someone filed the barbs off mine. It didn't look like the barb section was removable.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That Ebay brass T valve is available at my local hardware store. I think they're used on icemaker supply lines. One side is readily adaptable to accept a 1/4" barbed fitting. The other side not as much. It's a compression fitting. However, the other side will never see pressure since it's the drain side. It should work to replace the OE fitting. Epoxy or solder it to the bracket??
 

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You can double clamp it and see if it works.

Sometimes a newer hose may help also since it is still elastic and not hardened.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have double clamped it with the new hose and it seems to be holding so far but it's definitely something that should be changed in the future.
 

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That Ebay brass T valve is available at my local hardware store. I think they're used on icemaker supply lines. One side is readily adaptable to accept a 1/4" barbed fitting. The other side not as much. It's a compression fitting. However, the other side will never see pressure since it's the drain side. It should work to replace the OE fitting. Epoxy or solder it to the bracket??
Just make sure the O rings, etc will stand up to diesel fuel
 

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The one on my 95 leaks now. I put a $5 Briggs and Stratton fuel shut off valve before the T valve. I close and open both of them .
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The one on my 95 leaks now. I put a $5 Briggs and Stratton fuel shut off valve before the T valve. I close and open both of them .
Good idea.
 

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30,000 miles on the plastic one on my tuck. So far so good.
 
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