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Discussion Starter #1
I have a few questions for those who've done it-

How did you retain the ABS?


How much was involved, I mean, I've done solid axle swaps on Toyota's before, and they are pretty simple to do. Fabbing brackets isn't too hard, but I would be more concerned with making sure its comfortably driveable. I DD a solid axle swapped Toyota for several years and the ride was probably better than lifted IFS.

What are things to look out for? A high pinion Ford 60 seems to be the best one to use, driveshafts and re-building the axles aren't hard. I there anything special to the t-case? I notice the long thread on here about a SAS he put a slip yoke eliminator on, I am assuming like a jeep t-case its because of the big lift. I'm thinking I want a very small lift, enough to stuff 35's(I'll leave the 42's to my crawler :))

Seems like a spring hanger, shackles, driveshaft mod, and springs are about it? I can bend up new shock hoops, etc.

I'm thinking about keeping this truck long term, I want the sold axle to make it more capable for very mild off roading, but it needs to be plenty streetable for daily driving as well as hauling my toys.

Any help would be appreciated!
 

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There is quite a bit of work involved in doing this swap and with a project like this there are numerous little problems that can creep up on ya. However, since there are kits available it makes the process much more straight forward, if you wanted to go that route, but it is a little more expensive.

As far as retaining ABS, I think the only way to do that is by getting a custom built axle from ORU. I was not able to keep ABS so I just live with the ABS/parking brake lights and the Service Brake System message. I know I've heard of some guys trying to come up with a way to retain the stock brakes and ABS, but as of now there aren't many options.

For the transfer case you will need the slip yoke eliminator, assuming the truck is a duramax and doesn't have an Auto-trac t-case. Other things you'll need in addition to springs, hangers, shackles, and drive shafts is crossover steering, panhard bar, sway bar (if you plan street driving), and other odds and ends such as brake lines, shocks, ubolts, etc. It all tends to add up very quickly! And as you mentioned, the best axle to use is the HP Ford Dana 60 out of a 78-79 F350 and some F250s since it will be a direct bolt up.

Ride quality should be decent if you only plan to go with 35s. My ride isn't terrible, just a little stiff, which is to be expected with that much lift and stiff springs. ORU does offer a +6 kit that lengthens the front springs 6", which creates a better ride by flattening out the leafs a little more.

Hope this helps, let me know if you need anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hmmm...there's got to be another way to retain the ABS besides a custom axle from ORU...I'll do more checking.

Hangers and springs and steering is pretty easy, I've got a high steer hydro assist arb'd 60 in the front of my little Toyota.

Is the SYE for the front output on the t-case? or is it for the rear to accomodate the additional lift?

Also on steering, I've never really looked on my truck, is it a rack on there or is there a regular steering box? If its a regular box than its nothing more than a couple high steer arms on the axle and fab up a tie rod/drag link.
 

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The SYE is for the front output. I kept the slip yoke in the rear and had to lengthen the rear shaft 2". With a small amount of lift for 35s, the stock shaft should be fine in the rear, but you'll need a new one up front, of course.

There is just a regular steering box, so a drag ling, a couple drag link ends, and high steer arm for the knuckle is basically all you'll need for steering. In addition, if you wanted to go hydro assist, I have seen some guys on another forum drill and tap their stock power steering box, run some lines, set up a reservoir tank, and have a cheap hydro setup. Eventually, I'll probably try that conversion once I do some more research and start gathering parts.
 

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GoonRider237;1564792; said:
The SYE is for the front output. I kept the slip yoke in the rear and had to lengthen the rear shaft 2". With a small amount of lift for 35s, the stock shaft should be fine in the rear, but you'll need a new one up front, of course.

There is just a regular steering box, so a drag ling, a couple drag link ends, and high steer arm for the knuckle is basically all you'll need for steering. In addition, if you wanted to go hydro assist, I have seen some guys on another forum drill and tap their stock power steering box, run some lines, set up a reservoir tank, and have a cheap hydro setup. Eventually, I'll probably try that conversion once I do some more research and start gathering parts.
Any pics of where they tapped there boxes??
 

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(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)


That's a picture of a steering box from an 01 Denali a guy used on his half ton GMC. I haven't studied the box in my D-max to see if it's any different yet, but this should give you an idea. I also have a picture of a box from an 88-98 GM but it's on my computer at the house. I can post it later on this weekend.
 

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forget ABS. I did a swap on my '00s10 (in avatar) and didn't worry about it. it was a DD for 3 years like that and never a problem. stops great for what it is. has 37s and 4 wheel discs. HP D44/9" combo

you can drill and tap the box and they mentioned, but since mine was having some issues, I went with a PSC box. it was already drilled/tapped so all I have to do is add the ram when ready. it also pushes a little more fluid so it turns easier on the street than the OE box.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The biggest thing with the ABS is if I do this, I don't want it half assed, I want it to work right. I'm not really interested in having lights on an such, that takes away the fun :)

Is the ABS in the calipers, or a special tone ring in the wheel bearings or what? I am told ORU has a caliper bracket so you can use factory calipers.
 
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